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Rear axle bolt failure...AGAIN!!

Ford guy

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Aaannnnd it happed again. Right rear. Fully snapped off. Scheduling another interim repair...:curse:

The Driver's side luckily still fine. Is anyone actually prophylactically swapping the unbroken bolts out on any kind of regular basis?
My 21 had both axles replaced at 39k and just got them both replaced again at 67k.
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Atlee

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Best decision I made when I ordered my new PB in early 2021. I didn't think the Max Tow added enough valve to justify an extra approx. $1k in cost. I dodged a bullet on that piece of crap. And it's not like I would have added 3-4 thousand pound heavier trailer to the mix.
 

Snakebitten

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It's not as big a deal, to me anyways, as it is if you let it get in your head.

There are lots bigger bullets to dodge than a sheared axle bolt. Or put another way, I'd rather have 2 sheared axle bolts than one bad 10r80 valve body or CDF drum.
 

Hockeymandan13

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It's not as big a deal, to me anyways, as it is if you let it get in your head.

There are lots bigger bullets to dodge than a sheared axle bolt. Or put another way, I'd rather have 2 sheared axle bolts than one bad 10r80 valve body or CDF drum.
I'm the lucky winner who had one bolt sheer, both axles replaced about a month ago. As we speak the 10r80 is in pieces being rebuilt. Both CDF drum and a bum valve body. But at least I get the updated CDF drum.
 

Snakebitten

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Ohhhh, lucky guy. :(

Sorry to hear that.
 

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Captain Dirty Beard

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I'm the lucky winner who had one bolt sheer, both axles replaced about a month ago. As we speak the 10r80 is in pieces being rebuilt. Both CDF drum and a bum valve body. But at least I get the updated CDF drum.
This place has all sorts of 10R80 upgrade goodies. They don't mention anything regarding the Hybrid 10R80, but I think if I had the standard unit and it needed repair/replacement, I might look into some of these options.

Ford 10R80 Transmissions & Transmission Parts
 

Hockeymandan13

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This place has all sorts of 10R80 upgrade goodies. They don't mention anything regarding the Hybrid 10R80, but I think if I had the standard unit and it needed repair/replacement, I might look into some of these options.

Ford 10R80 Transmissions & Transmission Parts
It's all warranty right now 30k. Planning on rebuilding again around 100k and I'll be going through the list to upgrade what's available. Also will allow more time for possible upgrades to come out.
 

Captain Dirty Beard

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It's all warranty right now 30k. Planning on rebuilding again around 100k and I'll be going through the list to upgrade what's available. Also will allow more time for possible upgrades to come out.
I just had a long conversation with the design engineer at NexGen Drivetrain. He said that they absolutely can do the Powerboost 10R80, they just need the core because the Hybrid core is hard to find and really expensive.

He went into great detail about the changes they make, the parts they make in house, and their approach to making these 10R80's reliable and durable. If I decide to keep this truck outside of the factory warranty period, I think I will have them do the Xtreme Tow for me.
 

HammaMan

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I just had a long conversation with the design engineer at NexGen Drivetrain. He said that they absolutely can do the Powerboost 10R80, they just need the core because the Hybrid core is hard to find and really expensive.

He went into great detail about the changes they make, the parts they make in house, and their approach to making these 10R80's reliable and durable. If I decide to keep this truck outside of the factory warranty period, I think I will have them do the Xtreme Tow for me.
Did you ask him about the torque converter / hybrid drive clutch? It's all part of what ford considers to be the non-serviceable hybrid drive unit. The hybrid clutch is basically another trans clutch but sitting between the ICE and the torque converter. It doesn't slip like gear change clutches do so it should last a long time, but it's still a clutch assembly nonetheless.
 

Captain Dirty Beard

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Did you ask him about the torque converter / hybrid drive clutch? It's all part of what ford considers to be the non-serviceable hybrid drive unit. The hybrid clutch is basically another trans clutch but sitting between the ICE and the torque converter. It doesn't slip like gear change clutches do so it should last a long time, but it's still a clutch assembly nonetheless.
I didn't. I was trying not to choke on the $10,000 pricetag. (not including R&R labor and freight)

He said if you only do one thing, do the valve body and pump upgrade. He said the cooling benefits, the billet valves, and many other components really improve the durability and lifespan of the otherwise stock transmission.

Project Carbon® 10R80 Valve Body & Oil Pump w/ New OEM Electronics

Looking through the trans filter replacement procedure- it looks like the passenger side catalytic converter and cross member have to come out. Not really something I want to do on my back on jackstands.

(Sorry to OP for hijacking your axle bolt thread)
 

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lilburnedbear

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Hey there,

may I ask whether you jack the truck and/or if take the wheel off when you replace the bolts? TIA
 

FaaWrenchBndr

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Hey there,

may I ask whether you jack the truck and/or if take the wheel off when you replace the bolts? TIA
certainly makes it a hell of a lot easier with a wheel off. I don’t believe I would recommend or try extracting the remainder of the bolt with the wheel in place.
 

lilburnedbear

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FWIW, I took the truck into dealer today for what i thought would be another interim fix. But it turns out that the perm fix is apparently available.

The Rep said that is just arrived and they haven’t advertised it for rollout but are able to apply the fix to those of us with current failures. Will let you all know more when i get the truck back tomorrow.
 

bloodocean

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The Rep said that is just arrived and they haven’t advertised it for rollout but are able to apply the fix to those of us with current failures. Will let you all know more when i get the truck back tomorrow.
I just got mine done at the dealer last week and am assuming I got the crappy parts... and I have some high quality McMaster Carr bolts I'm ready to swap in. Would love to know if it's visually obvious what differentiates the official fix.
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