ECU module programming guide using FDRS

[tbinmd]

I use the SANDisk drive Jesse recommended in this thread. Never had an issue with it. Unlike my other drives that some work and others don't.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZ0X3L8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Sponsored

 

[Ldkburra]

I appreciate the replies about the ethernet and usb drives, thank you!

I apologize if I'm asking questions that have been previously asked and answered, I have tried to read up as much as I could before posting questions. One thing I haven't been able to find an answer to is, does having made forscan changes increase chances of having problems with the FDRS updates? If so, would returning the changes back to stock settings through forscan prior to beginning the FDRS updates be beneficial? Thanks?

 

[nitrobass24]

I appreciate the replies about the ethernet and usb drives, thank you!

I apologize if I'm asking questions that have been previously asked and answered, I have tried to read up as much as I could before posting questions. One thing I haven't been able to find an answer to is, does having made forscan changes increase chances of having problems with the FDRS updates? If so, would returning the changes back to stock settings through forscan prior to beginning the FDRS updates be beneficial? Thanks?

Shouldn’t need to make your changes again. Think of FDRS as windows update, and Forscan as your settings/preferences.

yes I am oversimplifying.
Yes you should backup your Forscan changes just in case.

 

[HammaMan]

I appreciate the replies about the ethernet and usb drives, thank you!

I apologize if I'm asking questions that have been previously asked and answered, I have tried to read up as much as I could before posting questions. One thing I haven't been able to find an answer to is, does having made forscan changes increase chances of having problems with the FDRS updates? If so, would returning the changes back to stock settings through forscan prior to beginning the FDRS updates be beneficial? Thanks?

Once in FDRS and looking at pending updates, it's best to backup any of the changes you've made in forscan before updating a module as the changes may not have been saved yet. With FDRS up and running, if you unplug the mongoose from the laptop and plug it back in, it will release the com port and forscan can be started and it will connect to the truck. If you want to update the APIM, go into forscan and save the data with save all feature once you're in the variable programming area for the APIM. Once you close forscan you can then go back to using FDRS as it releases the com port.

 

[sbi]

I have 2021 Job 2, never received an OTA update. Reading too many horror stories about FDRS updates, I refused to do it since my truck (knock on wood) has no issues.
But the tips of my fingers started to tickle recently; I usually never miss an update on any electronic device.
So I read through the first 50 pages which date back exactly 2 years ago, I am not sure if anything "progressed" in the process, but I still need clarifications on some points.

1. What is the difference between the mongoose and VCX? At some point, people started talking
about - and using - VCX adapter.

2. In the FDRS software download page, there are 4 steps with other pieces of software to
download (IDS, VCI, VMS, etc). Do I need those too, or just the FDRS (current version 39.6.4)?

3. If you leave the truck (in normal condition) in Accessory mode, it shuts itself down after 30
minutes. Am I understanding correctly, that with the batter maintainer connected to the
battery, this will prevent the auto shutdown?

4. In post #10 (first page), iceman wrote "wait until all components shut down".
Going to my question above, will the batter maintainer not prevent full shut down?!

5. In regards to backing up Forscan changes (I have a few) - if those changes are deleted during
the FDRS update process, is it better to re-upload my back up, or simply re-write the changes
from scratch?

6. What is "CANBUS"? At some point it was mentioned updating via canbus instead?! Not sure
what that is.

7. Assuming all goes well and successfully "unclog" the OTA Update stopper, can I expect to start
receiving all updates OTA going forward? Are there any updates that cannot be done OTA?

Appreciate everyone's help and wisdom in this forum. I am sure more questions will come up.

Thanks.

 

[Micho523]

I'll answer your questions with the short versions, others will likely fill in more:

1. Only use the Mongoose or Ford's VCM 3. The VCX Nano had issues and is no longer supported.

2. You only need FDRS. I also chose to install FJDS.

3. Programming overrides this auto shut down. Keep it on a minimum 20A power supply and all will be fine.

4. This is the same as rebooting a computer after updates. Modules will power down appropriately after the programming is done.

5. Re-write from scratch. Updates can and will change multiple values. Restoring the entire as-built for a module could brick it.

6. It is a communication protocol. No need to worry about it.

7. There are some non-OTA updates. Once you get your APIM past the "broken" updates, OTA will take over. I would recommend you fully update with FDRS while you've got it though.

 

[BluStreak]

I know the Mongoose and VCM3 are the best options, but has anyone used the Autel Maxiflash? I ask because I was talking with my local mechanic/neighbor and he said he had just gotten one and said I could use it for my "experimenting" into the module updates. It looks similar to the VCM 3 unit but i think it only supports J2534-1 and J2534-2.

 

[sbi]

I'll answer your questions with the short versions, others will likely fill in more:

1. Only use the Mongoose or Ford's VCM 3. The VCX Nano had issues and is no longer supported.

2. You only need FDRS. I also chose to install FJDS.

3. Programming overrides this auto shut down. Keep it on a minimum 20A power supply and all will be fine.

4. This is the same as rebooting a computer after updates. Modules will power down appropriately after the programming is done.

5. Re-write from scratch. Updates can and will change multiple values. Restoring the entire as-built for a module could brick it.

6. It is a communication protocol. No need to worry about it.

7. There are some non-OTA updates. Once you get your APIM past the "broken" updates, OTA will take over. I would recommend you fully update with FDRS while you've got it though.

Thanks @Micho523 .

20A or 10A? I only saw only 10A mentioned in posts.

 

[Micho523]

Thanks @Micho523 .

20A or 10A? I only saw only 10A mentioned in posts.

20A, and that just barely provides the required power. This is the most recommended and trusted power supply: https://a.co/d/i33KIqW

 

[rugedraw]

Thanks @Micho523 .

20A or 10A? I only saw only 10A mentioned in posts.

The first time I updated manually, I used a 10amp and I was able to get away with it, but the voltage did get a little lower than I was comfortable with during longer updates. if you're going to buy one, go with a 20amp. The Clore that was recommended to you is the same one I have now, and I also bought it when it dropped down to $80 during Black Friday last year. It's a great charger/power supply and a great deal at that price.

 

[sbi]

The first time I updated manually, I used a 10amp and I was able to get away with it, but the voltage did get a little lower than I was comfortable with during longer updates. if you're going to buy one, go with a 20amp. The Clore that was recommended to you is the same one I have now, and I also bought it when it dropped down to $80 during Black Friday last year. It's a great charger/power supply and a great deal at that price.

Thanks @rugedraw , it has been $80 for a while, I'll jump on before it goes away.

 

[HammaMan]

I use a harbor freight 15a charger and it's more than enough. I turn off headlights / dome lights during this process. (also helps to start with a full charge on the vehicle, if the batt is only at 60% SOC, let it charge up ahead of time -- chargers put out amps, not watts, so having a higher voltage allows it to deliver more energy)

The mach-e on the other hand needs a solid 30 amps with everything turned off. It's got 5 pumps it turns on full speed during the update process and just sucks the energy down. Sucks it won't turn on the DC/DC converter but will ramp up all of the pumps.

 

[sbi]

The first time I updated manually, I used a 10amp and I was able to get away with it, but the voltage did get a little lower than I was comfortable with during longer updates. if you're going to buy one, go with a 20amp. The Clore that was recommended to you is the same one I have now, and I also bought it when it dropped down to $80 during Black Friday last year. It's a great charger/power supply and a great deal at that price.

Wait, what do you mean "first time you updated manually", will I need to repeat the manual updates? I am hoping to not needing to do manual updates after this one

 

[rugedraw]

Wait, what do you mean "first time you updated manually", will I need to repeat the manual updates? I am hoping to not needing to do manual updates after this one

The first time I updated with FDRS was a necessity due to an old IPC update (2.7.3/2.7.4) that was not going through for me with the OTA process. All the other times I have done it was just because I didn't want to wait for the OTA process to get to me. For me, patience is not a virtue.

 

[HammaMan]

All the other times I have done it was just because I didn't want to wait for the OTA process to get to me. For me, patience is not a virtue.

2nd

Tesla will kick out an update fleet wide to millions of vehicles over the course of 2 days. Ford has a long way to go, but admittedly they're better than most. That's an easy feat to achieve given the 'bar' to beat is so low it's buried somewhere.

Sponsored