Testing an Aux batt solution...

[Snakebitten]

13.x is the new norm for resting voltage on a Powerboost. ?

LFP for auxiliary is the bomb!

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[HammaMan]

I thought the truck would behave 'better', but man, this thing has been great.

 

[dochawk]

13.x is the new norm for resting voltage on a Powerboost. ?

13.x is the new 12.6?

?

 

[Snakebitten]

13.x is the new 12.6?

?

Honestly, I ended up at 13.x looking for a solution to get 12.6 worry free. So yeah. I believe you hit the nail on the head.

I only wish I would have done it the first time I ever heard about it. I'm seriously considering adding an LFP Auxiliary to the tiny little H3 AGM in the Mach-E. But over on that forum I probably wouldn't mention such a blasphemous idea. I could get banned. Every thread is an oil thread over there, if you know what I mean. Some seriously serious folks drive electric vehicles. ???

 

[HammaMan]

I don't miss that place, like not even a little. A bunch of sensitive flatulence sniffers

Some of you may need context

 

[Jmitchelltfo]

Every morning as I head to work, I get in my pickup, check the battery app, Bluetooth battery monitor and fire up the MX+ to see that my 12v system is still operating great.

Resting voltage hasn't dropped below 12.98 even though we have had multiple nights at -4°F. Then, I will see the voltage come back up above 13.1 when the temperature comes back up around the freezing mark.

Now, we are back in the 40's overnight with highs in the 60's and I am seeing resting voltage back around 13.2. This little LFP battery is pretty amazing.

I can't get my Bluetooth monitor to show multiple day spreads (only one day at a time) but it is still nice to see how the LFP is keeping the 12v system topped off. I might be able to make my OEM batteries last until trade in time when I buy a 2028 or 29

15 minutes of "fabrication" along with a $200 investment. I'm seriously content with the outcome. I might even stop checking the apps and monitors.........maybe.

 

[tsigwing]

I opened the hood, locked the truck and let it sit for 15 minutes. Put a meter on the battery, 12.98V.

 

[johnnyvol]

I bought a top mount instead of side mount battery. I'm looking for a clean way to adapt that. Anything from a simple 90 degree terminal to new wiring. Has anyone else done this, or should I change batteries?

I thought about incorporating a bus into my box design. Anyone have ideas on that?

Also, I'm not as versed on DC electrics as AC; that's seems like one hell of a fuse on the positive terminal. I assume it's vital. If I wanted to change the positive terminal for something less bulky what are some alternatives?

Thanks

 

[Jmitchelltfo]

I bought a top mount instead of side mount battery. I'm looking for a clean way to adapt that. Anything from a simple 90 degree terminal to new wiring. Has anyone else done this, or should I change batteries?

I thought about incorporating a bus into my box design. Anyone have ideas on that?

Also, I'm not as versed on DC electrics as AC; that's seems like one hell of a fuse on the positive terminal. I assume it's vital. If I wanted to change the positive terminal for something less bulky what are some alternatives?

Thanks

AGM or LFP? Sounds like you are wanting to replace your OEM battery instead of running a parallel setup. You could buy an inline fuse to move it away from the positive post.

If you have enough room behind your seat or in the storage compartment, you could run a parallel setup and do very little modification to run your battery with your OEM setup. Just food for thought.

 

[tsigwing]

I bought a top mount instead of side mount battery. I'm looking for a clean way to adapt that. Anything from a simple 90 degree terminal to new wiring. Has anyone else done this, or should I change batteries?

I thought about incorporating a bus into my box design. Anyone have ideas on that?

Also, I'm not as versed on DC electrics as AC; that's seems like one hell of a fuse on the positive terminal. I assume it's vital. If I wanted to change the positive terminal for something less bulky what are some alternatives?

Thanks

I bought some 9" extensions on Amazon. Bolted this to the existing wiring. Electrical taped the crap out of the positive cable, crammed it above the box behind the seat. The cables reach fine, but I couldn't get the back of the box to latch. Not a big deal because once the seat is down it holds the top in place. The front did latch down.

 

[johnnyvol]

AGM or LFP? Sounds like you are wanting to replace your OEM battery instead of running a parallel setup. You could buy an inline fuse to move it away from the positive post.

If you have enough room behind your seat or in the storage compartment, you could run a parallel setup and do very little modification to run your battery with your OEM setup. Just food for thought.

My bad, LFP. I'm trying to do what I wrote in this post.

 

[johnnyvol]

I bought some 9" extensions on Amazon. Bolted this to the existing wiring. Electrical taped the crap out of the positive cable, crammed it above the box behind the seat. The cables reach fine, but I couldn't get the back of the box to latch. Not a big deal because once the seat is down it holds the top in place. The front did latch down.

I thought about that but was hoping to find something I could incorporate into a 3D designed battery box. Maybe a bus bar, or I might just print a new battery top and make it side mount that way.

 

[hatallica]

Sorry to sidetrack. Considering a custom build in parallel using 32700 cells in the Aux battery box. The catch, is that the current sensor on the negative wire is awkwardly jammed in that space. As you can see, lots of space underutilized.

In the trucks with two AGM, where does the sensor fit? I would love to make enough room to parallel cells to make a 12Ah pack. In parallel, there is only a few mm difference between vertical/horizontal. So just hoping that there is a tried & true relocation option.

 

[HammaMan]

Do you have a BMS to protect those cells? The truck can put out up to 15.2v, those shouldn't exceed 14.6v max or 3.65v per parallel cell group.

My current transformer is wedged into the side

 

[hatallica]

Do you have a BMS to protect those cells? The truck can put out up to 15.2v, those shouldn't exceed 14.6v max or 3.65v per parallel cell group.

My current transformer is wedged into the side

BMS - yes. It is about 9mm thickness, so I need to account for that. It might be underrated - bought the Daly 15A 4s before I was certain about my configuration. We'll see. Tough to find a small BMS with temperature protection.

Thanks for the image of the sensor squeeze. That helps me visualize possibilities.

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