Speakers-best bang for the buck

[m_bt54]

Thank you. I have the Sounds Good Stereo sub box now with two Kicker 6.75" , and it sounds amazing. But we just introduced a new 7 channel amp, so adding it in place of my 5 channel now for more power, and tuning. Then putting the dual L7T woofer box under the seat. So talked to the installer today, so as soon as I can get him free.

I would definitely be interested to hear more about this. I got the amp/ sub package but definitely want more

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[Graygoose2021]

I would definitely be interested to hear more about this. I got the amp/ sub package but definitely want more

You have the Sounds Good sub, with KEY5001? Thats a great start, Id hit up the guys at SG on where to expand next.

Mines a base audio, so its all aftermarket gear.

 

[WestTex277]

I was just looking to do the door panels but I’m not experienced with that what so ever so I might just buy a roll and go crazy lol but are you able to send picture if you have any?

I agree with others, it’s a long process and kind of maddening at times. But holy hell it makes a huge difference in sound quality and volume. I just did my front and back doors about a month ago. Both the outside door skin and interior panel. I used sound skins pre cut on the interior panel and it was definitely easier than my last truck. Wear gloves! I’ve got the B&O 8 speaker system and I really like it now.

 

[Porpoise Hork]

It's fun, I promise

About stripped the interior to get the headliner down huh? This is something I've wanted to do to cut down on noise from heavy rain.

 

[HammaMan]

About stripped the interior to get the headliner down huh? This is something I've wanted to do to cut down on noise from heavy rain.

All of the plastic panels that touch the ceiling panel including around the center camera must come off as do all of the upper parts of the door seals. They all hold the panel up. There's also a magnet right in the middle that needs to be detached. It probably pops down but it's probably got 20lbs of force or so, I used a broom handle and just shoved it up in there so I wasn't deforming the panel.

 

[Warden95]

All of the plastic panels that touch the ceiling panel including around the center camera must come off as do all of the upper parts of the door seals. They all hold the panel up. There's also a magnet right in the middle that needs to be detached. It probably pops down but it's probably got 20lbs of force or so, I used a broom handle and just shoved it up in there so I wasn't deforming the panel.

Is there enough room for a CLD layer plus fibermat or thinsulate or do you think headliner would bulge?

 

[Porpoise Hork]

Depending on how much space there is, some closed cell foam may be the best to use. This stuff is only 4mm thick and works as an excellent insulator and sound absorption material. I've used it for a bunch of different applications and works really well and it easy to work with.

All of the plastic panels that touch the ceiling panel including around the center camera must come off as do all of the upper parts of the door seals. They all hold the panel up. There's also a magnet right in the middle that needs to be detached. It probably pops down but it's probably got 20lbs of force or so, I used a broom handle and just shoved it up in there so I wasn't deforming the panel.

The camera removal is the only thing I am hesitant to do. What with all that having to re-calibrate it and everything. Pretty smart use of magnets to keep the headliner board from drooping in the middle.

 

[Allted]

Okay smart people, I am not sure what to do here.

I have the HS10, ready to go, and I am about to install the kicker key 200.4.

So if the key auto-tunes itself, where will I pick up the signal for the HS10 now? Do I just slice in before the kicker key to get a raw signal?

Guess what I am saying is I assume the key will not pass through the lows that the speakers presumably can not handle?

 

[Warden95]

Okay smart people, I am not sure what to do here.

I have the HS10, ready to go, and I am about to install the kicker key 200.4.

So if the key auto-tunes itself, where will I pick up the signal for the HS10 now? Do I just slice in before the kicker key to get a raw signal?

Guess what I am saying is I assume the key will not pass through the lows that the speakers presumably can not handle?

Do you have the Non B&O basic 7 speaker system. The Key is just for your doors and tweets. How will you run the speaker level signal inputs into the key? Are you doing a PAC or similar T harness for for the signal? When I had a similar setup I had the t harness behind the HU and speed wire off the harness to the back of the truck with an input going into my 4 channel amp and one going into the powered sub. Does that make sense?

 

[Allted]

Yup 7 speaker non-B&O. Pac harness to splice in. The key will run front and rear doors (stock speakers until Xmas.). I will unplug the center (at least for tuning, probably long term).


Does that make sense?
Yes, splice in before the amp. I figured, just making sure.

Thanks for taking the time.

 

[mtbbodhi]

Thanks to this thread I’ve now got a MUCH better sound system. Installed the Kicker CSC674 in back, and DSC 69304 6x9 in front. I also have kicker cst204 tweeters to install but don’t expect much difference from them.

The biggest change by far is the rear door speakers. I tested the system after installing those first, and the sound quality and low end was already amazing.

My biggest takeaway from doing this has nothing to do with the speakers, but Fords great engineering of the door panel. It now takes me about 3 minutes to remove the entire door panel. I’ve worked on a lot of vehicles and never seen something this clean and user-friendly.

Lastly, why does Crutchfield still not list 6x9 as a front option? Because they didn’t, I was expecting to see 6.5” speakers in the front doors, and was surprised when they were 6x9. And the adapters fit perfectly. They seem to have everything else dialed in so well (their instruction manual was crucial) but can’t seem to add replacement 6x9’s to their listings?

 

[Warden95]

Thanks to this thread I’ve now got a MUCH better sound system. Installed the Kicker CSC674 in back, and DSC 69304 6x9 in front. I also have kicker cst204 tweeters to install but don’t expect much difference from them.

The biggest change by far is the rear door speakers. I tested the system after installing those first, and the sound quality and low end was already amazing.

My biggest takeaway from doing this has nothing to do with the speakers, but Fords great engineering of the door panel. It now takes me about 3 minutes to remove the entire door panel. I’ve worked on a lot of vehicles and never seen something this clean and user-friendly.

Lastly, why does Crutchfield still not list 6x9 as a front option? Because they didn’t, I was expecting to see 6.5” speakers in the front doors, and was surprised when they were 6x9. And the adapters fit perfectly. They seem to have everything else dialed in so well (their instruction manual was crucial) but can’t seem to add replacement 6x9’s to their listings?

I love Crutchfield as well but I was able to get 8" in mine LOL.

 

[Je1279]

I find the Crutchfield situation curious as well. I ended up ordering the Kicker KS 6"x9" components for the front, but also ordered the speaker adapters from @SoundsGoodStereo just in case the included ones (or the Metra ones) do not allow them to mount correctly.

 

[WestTex277]

Thanks to this thread I’ve now got a MUCH better sound system. Installed the Kicker CSC674 in back, and DSC 69304 6x9 in front. I also have kicker cst204 tweeters to install but don’t expect much difference from them.

The biggest change by far is the rear door speakers. I tested the system after installing those first, and the sound quality and low end was already amazing.

My biggest takeaway from doing this has nothing to do with the speakers, but Fords great engineering of the door panel. It now takes me about 3 minutes to remove the entire door panel. I’ve worked on a lot of vehicles and never seen something this clean and user-friendly.

Lastly, why does Crutchfield still not list 6x9 as a front option? Because they didn’t, I was expecting to see 6.5” speakers in the front doors, and was surprised when they were 6x9. And the adapters fit perfectly. They seem to have everything else dialed in so well (their instruction manual was crucial) but can’t seem to add replacement 6x9’s to their listings?

Do you have B&O or non-B&O? I have the base B&O and have been thinking of replacing the rear doors speakers too.

 

[mtbbodhi]

Do you have B&O or non-B&O? I have the base B&O and have been thinking of replacing the rear doors speakers too.

non-B&O

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