Speakers-best bang for the buck

[Pcabe5]

This was a great thread for a 7 speaker upgrade. Here is my ACM settings:

727-01-01: 382A 29F1 ****

I set the fader to between the center console and the rear seat bottom.

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[Gonski]

Bringing this thread back to life, like the OP I am interested in upgrading the sound system for my '23 XLT. I'm not an audiophile and all the technical terminology and various levers/pulleys you can play with seem intimidating. At the end of the day I just want better sounding speakers.

From reading this thread I'm gathering there are plenty of options to simply 'replace' the stock speakers, where I'm getting a little unsure or lost is when it comes to amps, subs and general audiophile terminology.

If I were to just upgrade the stock speakers with alternatives, do you need to mess with power levels? Wiring? tuning of the sound?

When would you need an additional "amp"? Do you need an amp?
Does replacing just the stock speaker add enough or should one add a sub and all the sub-components that come along with it?

Trying to gauge the various levels of complexity here. Not sure I want to really dig into forscan and tuning all the audiophile stuff but if thats whats required at a minimum then I may seek a shop to do it

 

[Ricksc]

I just did my door speakers with kickers. Making the front doors 6x9 3 way. Sounds so much better. No forscan changes. I can actually hear the rears now. They were plug and play very easy instal.

 

[4DK]

Hello everyone,

I'm currently running a setup in my 2021 F-150 XLT (non-B&O sound system) of two 10-inch JL 10w0v3-4 subs, powered by a Recoil RED 1200.1 amp. The subs are housed in a custom-fit sealed enclosure under the rear seat, and the system is running with Recoil's active 2-channel line output converter (LOCD). It's been delivering solid bass that hits cleanly, and I'm really happy with how it sounds with the music I listen to.

I'm now looking to upgrade the door speakers and add more volume and clarity to the overall sound. I'm planning to run JL Audio C2-650 component speakers, powered by Skar's RP-75.4AB 4-channel amp, and I’ll run this setup with the same line output converter that's currently in my setup.

I'm also considering adding sound-deadening sheets to the door panels and speaker baffles for better sound in the cabin

If anyone has experience with a similar setup or has suggestions for other component speakers or amps that would be a better bang for the buck, I’d love to hear your recommendations! I'm just getting into upgrading audio so I'd love the extra opinions

 

[Warden95]

Hello everyone,

I'm currently running a setup in my 2021 F-150 XLT (non-B&O sound system) of two 10-inch JL 10w0v3-4 subs, powered by a Recoil RED 1200.1 amp. The subs are housed in a custom-fit sealed enclosure under the rear seat, and the system is running with Recoil's active 2-channel line output converter (LOCD). It's been delivering solid bass that hits cleanly, and I'm really happy with how it sounds with the music I listen to.

I'm now looking to upgrade the door speakers and add more volume and clarity to the overall sound. I'm planning to run JL Audio C2-650 component speakers, powered by Skar's RP-75.4AB 4-channel amp, and I’ll run this setup with the same line output converter that's currently in my setup.

I'm also considering adding sound-deadening sheets to the door panels and speaker baffles for better sound in the cabin

If anyone has experience with a similar setup or has suggestions for other component speakers or amps that would be a better bang for the buck, I’d love to hear your recommendations! I'm just getting into upgrading audio so I'd love the extra opinions

I’ve heard the C2’s and they will certainly be an upgrade to factory. I’m assuming you will be using passive crossovers. I’ve sound deadened my front doors, A pillars, partial rear doors and back firewall with CLD and CCF, block off plates in the doors and it makes a substantial difference. Most of the sound quality guys think it’s the first thing you should do. I don’t have experience with SKAR or recoil amps. I currently am running Audio control LC amps and have been happy with them although I’m strongly debating pulling the trigger on an Arc Audio X2.

 

[4DK]

I’ve heard the C2’s and they will certainly be an upgrade to factory. I’m assuming you will be using passive crossovers. I’ve sound deadened my front doors, A pillars, partial rear doors and back firewall with CLD and CCF, block off plates in the doors and it makes a substantial difference. Most of the sound quality guys think it’s the first thing you should do. I don’t have experience with SKAR or recoil amps. I currently am running Audio control LC amps and have been happy with them although I’m strongly debating pulling the trigger on an Arc Audio X2.

I was just looking to do the door panels but I’m not experienced with that what so ever so I might just buy a roll and go crazy lol but are you able to send picture if you have any?

 

[Warden95]

I was just looking to do the door panels but I’m not experienced with that what so ever so I might just buy a roll and go crazy lol but are you able to send picture if you have any?

Of course. Happy to help in any way. I must warn you its a major PITA

 

[Warden95]

I used Trace plastic for the cutouts

 

[Graygoose2021]

Here is a kit, precut for F150

https://soundskinsglobal.com/pages/...MIyoPX3PT8iQMVuy3UAR1yfg9LEAAYASAAEgJ2v_D_BwE

 

[HammaMan]

Here is a kit, precut for F150

https://soundskinsglobal.com/pages/...MIyoPX3PT8iQMVuy3UAR1yfg9LEAAYASAAEgJ2v_D_BwE

Says pre-order.

Plus there's no such thing as a shortcut to sound deadening. Anyone trying to sell ya on it is full of shit. It's a long shitty process best done on a warm vehicle with the butyl rubber sitting somewhere hot but not too hot. Though one thing remains true, the younger you are the easier it is to do

 

[Warden95]

Says pre-order.

Plus there's no such thing as a shortcut to sound deadening. Anyone trying to sell ya on it is full of shit. It's a long shitty process best done on a warm vehicle with the butyl rubber sitting somewhere hot but not too hot. Though one thing remains true, the younger you are the easier it is to do

I'll admit it's not my favorite task. I absolutely dread doing the roof. Oh and wear gloves when you work with those CLD panels. Edges are very sharp

 

[HammaMan]

I'll admit it's not my favorite task. I absolutely dread doing the roof. Oh and wear gloves when you work with those CLD panels. Edges are very sharp

It's fun, I promise

 

[Graygoose2021]

Says pre-order.

Plus there's no such thing as a shortcut to sound deadening. Anyone trying to sell ya on it is full of shit. It's a long shitty process best done on a warm vehicle with the butyl rubber sitting somewhere hot but not too hot. Though one thing remains true, the younger you are the easier it is to do

Yes I know the owners, they have it in stock.
It is a pain, to do it right. We tear cars 100% down to the bones when we build show vehicles and sound deaden them. Headliners and all.
Before company bought my truck and went crazy with it.

 

[Warden95]

Yes I know the owners, they have it in stock.
It is a pain, to do it right. We tear cars 100% down to the bones when we build show vehicles and sound deaden them. Headliners and all.
Before company bought my truck and went crazy with it.

That looks amazing. I always liked your personal truck in your profile pic. You still have the kicker box under the back seat?

 

[Graygoose2021]

That looks amazing. I always liked your personal truck in your profile pic. You still have the kicker box under the back seat?

Thank you. I have the Sounds Good Stereo sub box now with two Kicker 6.75" , and it sounds amazing. But we just introduced a new 7 channel amp, so adding it in place of my 5 channel now for more power, and tuning. Then putting the dual L7T woofer box under the seat. So talked to the installer today, so as soon as I can get him free.

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