Speakers-best bang for the buck

[Graygoose2021]

Thanks! The link I found on their website had an install video and a link that stated “coming in March. Preorder now!”

Yes i had a set for 21- up, so knew they had to have em or were on BO, all good sir.

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[WestTex277]

Their site lists the kit isn’t out yet? What was the price and what’s included in the kit?

This is the kit I installed. $329 for front and back doors. Really good quality product.

SoundSkins F150 Door Kit

 

[dmac]

Hey Guys, I updated my build post again. For anyone with the 6/7 Speaker, I'd highly recommend you take a look at the forscan section I wrote. It's super easy to do, and makes a humongous difference.

Motivation - I tested the factory ACM configs again for fun and was horrendously disappointed.

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/speakers-best-bang-for-the-buck.12532/post-411966

 

[pavementends]

I have the non B&O 7 speaker system and installed the Kicker DS F&R speakers yesterday using THIS KIT OFF AMAZON in ~30 degree F weather and when I jumped in to hear it I must say I'm a bit underwhelmed. With it being winter out I just wanted to slap the speakers in so I didn't install any sound deadening or block off plates, just the speakers. I bumped the bass on my head unit and it may be a little better than the stock POS speakers, but not much. Is this more related to the brand new speakers being tight/new and the combination of cold temps? Or should I plan to dig back in and add more to the doors to get it to sound a little better?

Also, I had to elongate the hole for the speaker wire in the 6x9 adapter because the supplied pigtail/adapters were too short to reach the speaker terminals. I did not cover or seal this larger hole in the adapter. As many others on Amazon reported I also had to drill a new hole in the 6.5 adapter for the pigtail/adapter wire, which I also did not seal once the wire was through. Are these extra or larger air gaps that I created detrimental to bass response? Should the front of the speaker be isolated from the back of the speaker and "door cabinet" to the best of my abilities? Or does it not matter much?

 

[dmac]

I have the non B&O 7 speaker system and installed the Kicker DS F&R speakers yesterday using THIS KIT OFF AMAZON in ~30 degree F weather and when I jumped in to hear it I must say I'm a bit underwhelmed. With it being winter out I just wanted to slap the speakers in so I didn't install any sound deadening or block off plates, just the speakers. I bumped the bass on my head unit and it may be a little better than the stock POS speakers, but not much. Is this more related to the brand new speakers being tight/new and the combination of cold temps? Or should I plan to dig back in and add more to the doors to get it to sound a little better?

Also, I had to elongate the hole for the speaker wire in the 6x9 adapter because the supplied pigtail/adapters were too short to reach the speaker terminals. I did not cover or seal this larger hole in the adapter. As many others on Amazon reported I also had to drill a new hole in the 6.5 adapter for the pigtail/adapter wire, which I also did not seal once the wire was through. Are these extra or larger air gaps that I created detrimental to bass response? Should the front of the speaker be isolated from the back of the speaker and "door cabinet" to the best of my abilities? Or does it not matter much?

I think without changing forscan or adding any insulation (mainly the front plates), differences will be minor. The factory eq really neuters the input signal for the crappy stock speakers.

 

[Je1279]

You can use strip calk to plug the holes for the speaker wires.

 

[pavementends]

Oh, also want to add that my truck is a SuperCab and didn't really find any info or videos how to remove the SCab door panels. It is much more of a PITA than the front doors, unfortunately. Several of the "christmas tree" plastic fasteners shattered while pulling the panel off, but that might be because of the cold temps outside. I did have to use some of the special clip popping pliars that came with my TRIM REMOVAL KIT. It's not too bad, but it is less straight forward compared to the front doors. If anyone wants some hints on how to remove the SCab door panels let me know. Not fun but not brutal.

 

[pavementends]

I think without changing forscan or adding any insulation (mainly the front plates), differences will be minor. The factory eq really neuters the input signal for the crappy stock speakers.

What do you mean by "adding insulation", please? Do you have a pic of what this is and where it's installed? Thanks!

 

[dmac]

What do you mean by "adding insulation", please? Do you have a pic of what this is and where it's installed? Thanks!

As stated here https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/speakers-best-bang-for-the-buck.12532/post-411966 on the outer door skins.

You have to remove the interior door panel and plastic covering to do so. Its time consuming and awkward to do. The block off plates were a much easier install.

 

[pavementends]

I have the non B&O 7 speaker system and installed the Kicker DS F&R speakers yesterday using THIS KIT OFF AMAZON in ~30 degree F weather and when I jumped in to hear it I must say I'm a bit underwhelmed. With it being winter out I just wanted to slap the speakers in so I didn't install any sound deadening or block off plates, just the speakers. I bumped the bass on my head unit and it may be a little better than the stock POS speakers, but not much. Is this more related to the brand new speakers being tight/new and the combination of cold temps? Or should I plan to dig back in and add more to the doors to get it to sound a little better?

Also, I had to elongate the hole for the speaker wire in the 6x9 adapter because the supplied pigtail/adapters were too short to reach the speaker terminals. I did not cover or seal this larger hole in the adapter. As many others on Amazon reported I also had to drill a new hole in the 6.5 adapter for the pigtail/adapter wire, which I also did not seal once the wire was through. Are these extra or larger air gaps that I created detrimental to bass response? Should the front of the speaker be isolated from the back of the speaker and "door cabinet" to the best of my abilities? Or does it not matter much?

I jumped the gun on my comment out being underwhelmed. The Kicker DS speakers have broken in a lot over the last week and sound really damn good. Much better sound stage and detail. The mid bass is still lacking, so I'm going to invest in the block off plates and install/seal holes better,etc and tinker with those Forscan settings in warmer weather and I'll report back...

 

[Je1279]

I jumped the gun on my comment out being underwhelmed. The Kicker DS speakers have broken in a lot over the last week and sound really damn good. Much better sound stage and detail. The mid bass is still lacking, so I'm going to invest in the block off plates and install/seal holes better,etc and tinker with those Forscan settings in warmer weather and I'll report back...

Start with the Forscan settings and that should make a noticeable difference. If you are still not satisfied, the blockoff plates will likely get you where you want to be.

 

[pavementends]

Forscan:
I HIGHLY recommend these if you put new speakers in. These are ONLY for the 6&7 speaker NON B&0 stereos.

1. Send Flat signal to speakers (see previous post)
- Change ACM 727-01-02 ***0 ****
2. Reduce chime volume
- In IPC Module Configuration, change "Chimes - Primary Source" to "Instrument Cluster Only"
3. Change Speaker roles in ACM for best performance. (See my post for other options):
- Change ACM 727-01-01: ***A 15*

Made these Forscan changes today and ended up leaving #3 (ACM 727-01-01) as ***9 29*** because I liked it a little better than ***A 15**. Just wanted to say THANK YOU for providing this information. I have ~$200 into my system (Kicker DS all around) and it sounds $1,000+ better than stock. What a steal!

 

[pavementends]

Start with the Forscan settings and that should make a noticeable difference. If you are still not satisfied, the blockoff plates will likely get you where you want to be.

You were right. Thanks!

 

[pavementends]

Sure. I also sent this PM to a fellow member who had the 7 speaker system :

Go into ACM and pick one (or try each) of the following configurations for 727-01-01 based on your preferences:

1. ACM 727-01-01: ***A 15** (for deeper, smoother sound, full range only to front speakers, full range dash speaker)
- sounds great with rear fade. I run this currently


2. ACM 727-01-01 to ***9 29** (for bright sound, full range front and rears, tweeter only for dash speaker)
- sounds great with slight front fade, I ran this for a while but I prefer deeper sound.


3. ACM 727-01-01 to ***9 15** (full range to front only, tweeter-only for dash speaker)
- I have not tried this one, but you could try it out.


MAKE SURE YOU'RE Battery is charged (or done a 15m + drive) before doing any forscan changes if you're not hooked up to a charger. AND save your previous configuration to mitigate any bad writes.

A little confused by this... is setting #1 ideal for those who have a subwoofer then? And #2 is best for those without a sub? Is there a reason you would not want full range to rears?

Also, I can't stand the chime noise coming from behind the dash. Is the only drawback of leaving it stock the chime is slightly louder through the speakers and the pre collision alarm being super loud? Anything else to be aware of leaving it stock?

 

[dmac]

A little confused by this... is setting #1 ideal for those who have a subwoofer then? And #2 is best for those without a sub? Is there a reason you would not want full range to rears?

Also, I can't stand the chime noise coming from behind the dash. Is the only drawback of leaving it stock the chime is slightly louder through the speakers and the pre collision alarm being super loud? Anything else to be aware of leaving it stock?

Different strokes I guess and I do have a sub. It's all preference those are just some easy options I put up.

You can omit the chime change but you might sh** yourself when a precollision alert happens ?

 

[dmac]

A little confused by this... is setting #1 ideal for those who have a subwoofer then? And #2 is best for those without a sub? Is there a reason you would not want full range to rears?

Also, I can't stand the chime noise coming from behind the dash. Is the only drawback of leaving it stock the chime is slightly louder through the speakers and the pre collision alarm being super loud? Anything else to be aware of leaving it stock?

I actually disabled the startup chimes altogether (key In Ignition) and I barely ever chimes much anyways now.

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