DadBald
Well-known member
Well that was exactly my plan. LOL. But it's half baked at this point. I'll keep thinking it through and let you know how it goes.
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Pedestrian Sounder Delete (No Codes, Easily Reversible)
- Thread starter xtraman122
- Start date
- Watchers 74
DadBald
Well-known member
Alright folks, I got it working with accessory/ignition power, and it works exactly as I wanted it to. It cuts out the UFO/backup dinger when you push the button, turns back on with the button, and regardless of the setting you pick, it always defaults to speaker ON if the vehicle is shut off and turned on again.
As for the regular install, the directions were pretty good. Start with the ground, feed it straight down from there by the wheel well, get under the truck, feed it over the frame member and down by the speaker, connect it, then back up top run your 12v power wire under the coolant reservoirs and over to the battery (this is where I got creative). First some words on the install:
The ground is super easy to find. After the speaker was connected, I zip tied the device and 1 coil of wire (to take up the slack) to a front frame member:
The connector on the speaker is a real booger. I physically could not get my fingers to contort in any way that would let me press the release lever and pull at the same time. I let my 3 boys try and they couldn't either. My smallest COULD, but he wasn't strong enough to pull the connector out. Eventually I got it with a very small needle nose pliers to depress the lever and wiggled it loose. You definitely want the intercooler plate out of the way, and I recommend a small needle nose, it's the only way I could get it off.
The rest was pretty easy. My biggest concern with the 12v power wire was keeping it off the reservoirs, off the radiators and coolant lines, but tied up enough to avoid dropping down into the cooling fans. I found no better option than to zip tie around the reservoir mounts themselves:
I zip tied the fuse holder to another ground connection just in front of the battery, and there should be just enough slack to run it to the battery from there.
The key fobs are really nice! And I was not expecting to get two!
Found a couple oddities with mine though - the first fob I tried when I opened the kit (you gotta push the button, amirite?) turned my desk LED strips on! Some how It's the exact same frequency and signal as my LED controller on/off
It's this one:
So, funny coincidence. What's really odd is that the other key fob does NOT control my LEDs. I was worried they were programmed differently and one would be a dud, but I tried them both after install, and they both work exactly the same way for the pedestrian sounder on the truck. Weird, but no biggie. I programmed the one that did NOT control my lights to my Homelink button and that's working great now too
So the only issue that could be remaining, is if I turn my desk lights on when someone else pulls out in the truck and it kills the ped sounder. Guess they'll be enjoying a nice quiet ride then ?
Overall, super happy with the Megaohm product. Works great! I'll update the switched power mod in the next post.
As for the regular install, the directions were pretty good. Start with the ground, feed it straight down from there by the wheel well, get under the truck, feed it over the frame member and down by the speaker, connect it, then back up top run your 12v power wire under the coolant reservoirs and over to the battery (this is where I got creative). First some words on the install:
The ground is super easy to find. After the speaker was connected, I zip tied the device and 1 coil of wire (to take up the slack) to a front frame member:
The connector on the speaker is a real booger. I physically could not get my fingers to contort in any way that would let me press the release lever and pull at the same time. I let my 3 boys try and they couldn't either. My smallest COULD, but he wasn't strong enough to pull the connector out. Eventually I got it with a very small needle nose pliers to depress the lever and wiggled it loose. You definitely want the intercooler plate out of the way, and I recommend a small needle nose, it's the only way I could get it off.
The rest was pretty easy. My biggest concern with the 12v power wire was keeping it off the reservoirs, off the radiators and coolant lines, but tied up enough to avoid dropping down into the cooling fans. I found no better option than to zip tie around the reservoir mounts themselves:
I zip tied the fuse holder to another ground connection just in front of the battery, and there should be just enough slack to run it to the battery from there.
The key fobs are really nice! And I was not expecting to get two!
Found a couple oddities with mine though - the first fob I tried when I opened the kit (you gotta push the button, amirite?) turned my desk LED strips on! Some how It's the exact same frequency and signal as my LED controller on/off
It's this one:
So, funny coincidence. What's really odd is that the other key fob does NOT control my LEDs. I was worried they were programmed differently and one would be a dud, but I tried them both after install, and they both work exactly the same way for the pedestrian sounder on the truck. Weird, but no biggie. I programmed the one that did NOT control my lights to my Homelink button and that's working great now too
So the only issue that could be remaining, is if I turn my desk lights on when someone else pulls out in the truck and it kills the ped sounder. Guess they'll be enjoying a nice quiet ride then ?
Overall, super happy with the Megaohm product. Works great! I'll update the switched power mod in the next post.
KW58
Member
Did you end up going straight to battery instead of using a fuse tap?Alright folks, I got it working with accessory/ignition power, and it works exactly as I wanted it to. It cuts out the UFO/backup dinger when you push the button, turns back on with the button, and regardless of the setting you pick, it always defaults to speaker ON if the vehicle is shut off and turned on again.
As for the regular install, the directions were pretty good. Start with the ground, feed it straight down from there by the wheel well, get under the truck, feed it over the frame member and down by the speaker, connect it, then back up top run your 12v power wire under the coolant reservoirs and over to the battery (this is where I got creative). First some words on the install:
The ground is super easy to find. After the speaker was connected, I zip tied the device and 1 coil of wire (to take up the slack) to a front frame member:
The connector on the speaker is a real booger. I physically could not get my fingers to contort in any way that would let me press the release lever and pull at the same time. I let my 3 boys try and they couldn't either. My smallest COULD, but he wasn't strong enough to pull the connector out. Eventually I got it with a very small needle nose pliers to depress the lever and wiggled it loose. You definitely want the intercooler plate out of the way, and I recommend a small needle nose, it's the only way I could get it off.
The rest was pretty easy. My biggest concern with the 12v power wire was keeping it off the reservoirs, off the radiators and coolant lines, but tied up enough to avoid dropping down into the cooling fans. I found no better option than to zip tie around the reservoir mounts themselves:
I zip tied the fuse holder to another ground connection just in front of the battery, and there should be just enough slack to run it to the battery from there.
The key fobs are really nice! And I was not expecting to get two!
Found a couple oddities with mine though - the first fob I tried when I opened the kit (you gotta push the button, amirite?) turned my desk LED strips on! Some how It's the exact same frequency and signal as my LED controller on/off
So, funny coincidence. What's really odd is that the other key fob does NOT control my LEDs. I was worried they were programmed differently and one would be a dud, but I tried them both after install, and they both work exactly the same way for the pedestrian sounder on the truck. Weird, but no biggie. I programmed the one that did NOT control my lights to my Homelink button and that's working great now too
So the only issue that could be remaining, is if I turn my desk lights on when someone else pulls out in the truck and it kills the ped sounder. Guess they'll be enjoying a nice quiet ride then ?
Overall, super happy with the Megaohm product. Works great! I'll update the switched power mod in the next post.
DadBald
Well-known member
Ok so for switched power, I have no clue what wires went where after the fuse box... So for me, fuse tap was the only option. I considered the relay, but I didn't want to buy another device and worry about batteries or power to it. I just want to install and not worry about it for years. And one of the reasons for switched power is to limit the already quickly draining phantom power on the Powerboost. So for these reasons, I decided I'd try to get something routed into the fuse box.
To get there, I had to extend the 12v power wire by a few feet. So I found some 14ga stranded wire, cut off the ring terminal on the wire from the sounder override, and spliced them together with a crimp connection with some heat shrink for protection. You can see this a little further upstream on my battery pic in the last post.
It's an easy run down and around a few components connected to the side rail, and there's a small gap around the base of the fuse box to run the wire around to the back of it. Once you pull it tight, it pops up behind the frame rail mostly out of sight.
Ok so for the million dollar question - how you get a wire into this fuse box. Well I popped the hood and stared at it for a solid half hour, took a bunch of pictures, then went inside and slept on it for a day. I pulled some photos of the fuse box from auction listings to get all angles... And long story short, there is no way to get a wire in here without modifying it in some way, or severely smashing your wires. Ain't no way, ain't no how. Previous generation F150s all have nuanced ways to do it without modification, but 2021+ you're SOL.
So I looked into replacement options just in case I screwed up. Obviously the fuse box was expensive, and probably a ton of work to replace. I found a replacement lid for $18 though, so if I was going to modify something, it would be nice to do it to the lid instead of the fuse box itself. Lo and behold, there is a good place for this, in my opinion.
On the lid, there is a well protected area in the middle of the back edge. There are two latches on the fuse box that hinge the lid up - between these two hinges there are essentially water dams that isolate this area, and there is a flap that extends down the back wall of the fuse box when mounted. I checked a piece of scrap wire and it only pinched in 2 places - where there are 2 ridges on the lid. So here is where I found my modification point:
Tried it again, and no pinching. It is a little tight down between that back flap and the fuse box housing, but it's not pinching anything. I thought about heating the lid and warping the back just a tad to loosen this area up a little, but ultimately I left it alone. If anything it will help hold the wire secure from vibrations and protect the fuses inside a bit better.
Ok so this is my routing, what about inside the fuse box. Well here's where I ended up.
I put the fuse tap on #19/48 which is for rear heated seats (which I don't have). I confirmed it's switched power, and there is no shutoff delay. Some of the fuses I listed a few posts above are either NOT switched, or they have a delay (not sure, I just skipped them if they had 12v when I was testing). 19/48 is off right when vehicle is turned off.
I was going to just put the included 3A fuse from Megaohm in the fuse tap and get rid of the inline fuse, but sadly it was a different size (too big). The truck needs a Micro 2 size. So I put in the original 20A for the circuit and a 10A that was included with my fuse tap, and kept the 3A inline from Megaohm by my battery.
Before I found the backside routing path, I was considering drilling a hole the same size as the wire. In this case I needed a Wago connector inside so the fuse tap could be removed if ever needed... But I didn't end up going this way and just used the wago anyway. You could put another crimp splice here.
So that's about it. Fun project, and it's working really great. Any questions I'll do my best to answer!
To get there, I had to extend the 12v power wire by a few feet. So I found some 14ga stranded wire, cut off the ring terminal on the wire from the sounder override, and spliced them together with a crimp connection with some heat shrink for protection. You can see this a little further upstream on my battery pic in the last post.
It's an easy run down and around a few components connected to the side rail, and there's a small gap around the base of the fuse box to run the wire around to the back of it. Once you pull it tight, it pops up behind the frame rail mostly out of sight.
Ok so for the million dollar question - how you get a wire into this fuse box. Well I popped the hood and stared at it for a solid half hour, took a bunch of pictures, then went inside and slept on it for a day. I pulled some photos of the fuse box from auction listings to get all angles... And long story short, there is no way to get a wire in here without modifying it in some way, or severely smashing your wires. Ain't no way, ain't no how. Previous generation F150s all have nuanced ways to do it without modification, but 2021+ you're SOL.
So I looked into replacement options just in case I screwed up. Obviously the fuse box was expensive, and probably a ton of work to replace. I found a replacement lid for $18 though, so if I was going to modify something, it would be nice to do it to the lid instead of the fuse box itself. Lo and behold, there is a good place for this, in my opinion.
On the lid, there is a well protected area in the middle of the back edge. There are two latches on the fuse box that hinge the lid up - between these two hinges there are essentially water dams that isolate this area, and there is a flap that extends down the back wall of the fuse box when mounted. I checked a piece of scrap wire and it only pinched in 2 places - where there are 2 ridges on the lid. So here is where I found my modification point:
Tried it again, and no pinching. It is a little tight down between that back flap and the fuse box housing, but it's not pinching anything. I thought about heating the lid and warping the back just a tad to loosen this area up a little, but ultimately I left it alone. If anything it will help hold the wire secure from vibrations and protect the fuses inside a bit better.
Ok so this is my routing, what about inside the fuse box. Well here's where I ended up.
I put the fuse tap on #19/48 which is for rear heated seats (which I don't have). I confirmed it's switched power, and there is no shutoff delay. Some of the fuses I listed a few posts above are either NOT switched, or they have a delay (not sure, I just skipped them if they had 12v when I was testing). 19/48 is off right when vehicle is turned off.
I was going to just put the included 3A fuse from Megaohm in the fuse tap and get rid of the inline fuse, but sadly it was a different size (too big). The truck needs a Micro 2 size. So I put in the original 20A for the circuit and a 10A that was included with my fuse tap, and kept the 3A inline from Megaohm by my battery.
Before I found the backside routing path, I was considering drilling a hole the same size as the wire. In this case I needed a Wago connector inside so the fuse tap could be removed if ever needed... But I didn't end up going this way and just used the wago anyway. You could put another crimp splice here.
So that's about it. Fun project, and it's working really great. Any questions I'll do my best to answer!
Last edited:
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JoeWpg
Well-known member
I used the bypass resistor trick (first post) to eliminate the pedestrian sound/noise - all was working well until this week. I just did some FDRS updates, and now I get pedestrian sounder fault messages.
Does anyone know if recent (< 1 year) updates broke the resistor trick?
I know I can do the disable in Forscan (also requires unplugging modules) or buy the remote kit, but I was happy with the way it was working with the resistor trick.
Does anyone know if recent (< 1 year) updates broke the resistor trick?
I know I can do the disable in Forscan (also requires unplugging modules) or buy the remote kit, but I was happy with the way it was working with the resistor trick.
Sapphire
Well-known member
It should still work. I had mine fail recently too due to corrosion. You may want to do some reseating/jiggling and continuity/resistance checks. It might need replacing. I just updated everything I could in FDRS a few weeks ago and it didn’t mess with the resistor hack for me.
WillB17
Well-known member
Luckily there is no way for Ford to create an update that will break our bypass method. Ford could push an update in the future to break the less favorable Forscan method though which is why ours is still the best option and fully undetectable.
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dochawk
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you guys are making this two complicated.
Simple pedestrian delete kit:
?
Simple pedestrian delete kit:
?
LN7
Well-known member
ITS LIVE! Its been so hard to hold this in, but I can finally tell you guys how excited I have been developing this. Switchable is here, and via prototyping I found myself extremely ticked about how hard it is to get wires though the firewall. I have come up with a WIRELESS FOB that will let you turn the speaker on and off! Install takes just a few more minutes than the current full bypass and by default will disable the speaker. When you click the "on" button on the FOB, it will turn the speaker on.
It's taken so long to get the details right and look back at the hundreds of emails and messages from across the internet, along with tons of testing. I think for those that want control of the speaker, this will be a home run!
Get the Premium RC Edition Here
Just installed mine. Good instructions. Easy install.
Was nice to receive 2 remotes. Put them in the safe after I programmed homelink with one of them.
Very happy with the product - thanks!
Beercity
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I ordered the RC version back on June 7th 2022, before my truck was built and put on hold for months...is that still a thing?... I finally installed this afternoon after inheriting a boat this winter and several sessions of launching with everyone turning to see what the hell is going on I figured it was time.
The install was easy as everyone said and the truck is now silent but the remote doesn't turn the speaker on. I double checked the connections(reseated) Maybe the remote lost pairing? Anyone know how to re-pair the remote/if possible?
The install was easy as everyone said and the truck is now silent but the remote doesn't turn the speaker on. I double checked the connections(reseated) Maybe the remote lost pairing? Anyone know how to re-pair the remote/if possible?
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