New updated Max Tow axles installed

[Buyer2021]

The real question for me is which one of us, me/you, is going to say UNCLE first? ?

? I'm certainly in no rush and have no worries

Having said that, the smart money would probably bet on me eventually finding the time convenient, allowing the dealer to touch my truck, and putting this behind me before you.

I've enjoyed the bolt-banter, doubt there's anyone on this forum enjoying their trucks more than we two, always hope the best for you and the kids /grandkids, keep Having Fun Good Sir!

..... now, about that CDF drum .....

EDIT - one item of curiosity persists .... I'd still like to get my hands on a rear hub to dissect and see the internal bearing arrangement

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[PatchManager]

Did discount say that your vehicle was not drivable? I understand Costco does this and requires a tow for repairs.

The guys at Discount Tire were understandably genuinely concerned and strongly recommended that I have it towed, so I did call the dealer even though I knew it was safe based on what I have seen here and in the recall notice. They were fine with me driving the truck after I told them I spoke to the dealer and they said it was safe to drive.

When I called the dealership, I asked the first person I spoke with if it was safe to drive the truck after explaining the situation. He said something similar to, "well, it is up to you whether you feel safe driving the vehicle." After rolling my eyes, I asked him if Ford considers it safe to drive the vehicle. He then passed me onto someone who had read the recall notice.

 

[Ed21]

I really want these new axles on my non-recalled 2023 Max tow. I was initially thinking the Dec 2023 build date was a good thing cause it was outside the recall. Now I need an actual failure before they'll fix it

There’s always the impact gun trick, just sayin.

 

[Chris GTO TT]

For legal reasons I have no idea what you're talking about

 

[oncechance]

Sitting at the dealer right now waiting on them complete the axle replacements. A little working and surfing the net.

 

[JohnMcClane]

There’s always the impact gun trick, just sayin.

Why use gun when big stick do trick?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-4-in-Drive-x-40-in-Breaker-Bar-SBH00340/309831816

 

[Jmitchelltfo]

Why use gun when big stick do trick?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-4-in-Drive-x-40-in-Breaker-Bar-SBH00340/309831816

If you have some decent mass and don't mind leaning into it a bit.....you could use this little guy.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-2-in-Drive-15-in-Breaker-Bar-H12BB15/202923417

 

[Snakebitten]

I have removed and installed these bolts several times on both sides.
It doesn't take much grunt at all to snap the head off of the oem bolt with the same torque wrench you used to tighten the lug nuts on the wheel you took off and put back on.

And I've mentioned before that the oem bolt itself just feeeeels brittle compared to the typical 12x1.75 bolt you would fetch at Ace Hardware. Not to mention the torque spec being above the norm for the same.

 

[MTMan]

Does the head of the OEM bolt have a marking to indicate what grade it is? Sometimes there’s a number sometimes there a lines and markings I match up to a guide that tells you torque.

 

[Snakebitten]

Regardless of the grade of the oem bolt, the factory service manual states the tightening procedure. It's one of those two step procedures of tighten to certain torque, then turn an additional x-degrees.
So you aren't actually instructed to tighten to a specific torque.

However, if you DO tighten an aftermarket well machined brand new 12x1.75 bolt to ~84ftlbs, it certainly feeeeels like you aren't over torqing.
Yet if I use the oem bolt with its course feeeeeling threads, and I use the recommended procedure, it definitely feeeeels a bit too aggressive. Especially in comparison.

I realize everything I have said is anecdotal evidence only, but I don't like the oem bolt, nor do I torque the bolts that I substitute for the oem bolt, using the Ford recommended procedure.

It's a no-risk alternative approach, as far as I'm concerned. ?

 

[Ford guy]

Regardless of the grade of the oem bolt, the factory service manual states the tightening procedure. It's one of those two step procedures of tighten to certain torque, then turn an additional x-degrees.
So you aren't actually instructed to tighten to a specific torque.

However, if you DO tighten an aftermarket well machined brand new 12x1.75 bolt to ~84ftlbs, it certainly feeeeels like you aren't over torqing.
Yet if I use the oem bolt with its course feeeeeling threads, and I use the recommended procedure, it definitely feeeeels a bit too aggressive. Especially in comparison.

I realize everything I have said is anecdotal evidence only, but I don't like the oem bolt, nor do I torque the bolts that I substitute for the oem bolt, using the Ford recommended procedure.

It's a no-risk alternative approach, as far as I'm concerned. ?

It seems to me that the bolt/washer’s purpose is to keep the axle shaft from migrating inward. All the load is on the splines. Seems like some red locktite on the threads and less aggressive torque setting on the bolt would last forever. For that bolt to keep snapping off I’m sure I’m over simplifying it though.

 

[MTMan]

Sounds like a torque to yield bolt which is one time use only made different than a standard bolt.

 

[Snakebitten]

It seems to me that the bolt/washer’s purpose is to keep the axle shaft from migrating inward. All the load is on the splines. Seems like some red locktite on the threads and less aggressive torque setting on the bolt would last forever. For that bolt to keep snapping off I’m sure I’m over simplifying it though.

I totally agree.

And by the way, the oem bolt comes with red locktight type material on it.
I've mentioned in multiple posts that the oem bolt has some kind of "treatment" to it that results in it being what I describe as gnarly threads. Bumpy and corse. Enough so that one might finger thread into the axle 1/2 way before there's to much friction to turn it further without a wrench.
The threads in the axle themselves look like traditional well machined threads, and if you use an aftermarket fresh bolt you can thread it all the way in as the two machined surfaces perfectly match.

No doubt Ford can defend their choice of bolt and the reason for the less than perfect surface treatment. They can even explain the reason for the torquing sequence procedure. But the results aren't don't seem to be very good. ??

My conspiracy theory is that the bolt can be over torqued (stressed) and then fail to withstand the stresses exerted by rotational play in the hub bearings. Eventually snapping as though the bolt is too brittle.

Again, all anecdotal and I'm just an old geezer describing feeeeel and visual evidence.

 

[MTMan]

My conspiracy theory is that the bolt can be over torqued (stressed) and then fail to withstand the stresses exerted by rotational play in the hub bearings. Eventually snapping as though the bolt is too brittle.

I think you hit the nail on the head here. The bolt is probably taking rotational stretch causing the breakage as I’m of the understanding TTY bolts are only for stretch.

 

[Naples hunter]

I have a 2 week old 2025 F150 Platinum with tow haul and Max tow. it has blend date of early April 2025. I just popped oof the axle covers and mine has the bolt as well. Won't they have to just replace them all? Ford is still producing an axle that will most likely fail as of 45 days ago.

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