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rugedraw

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Hi
When trying to update the apim, I keep getting this usb error. I formatted and reloaded the software on the flash drive but still get the same error.

1FTFW1RG5PFB73809
If memory serves me right, this happens due to a bad 12v battery.

Plug the USB update FDRS made into the laptop and open it to look for the manifest file. The manifest file should outside of the folder labeled "fordsoftwareupdates" and not inside of it. If the manifest is inside the folder, take it out. If the manifest is outside the folder already, then it is most likely a bad battery, but you can try using a different USB.

If the manifest is not in the USB update at all, then that's your problem.

Has anyone received the anticipated APIM update(s) Ford said they will release in October 2024?
Not yet. They said in was coming in the 4th quarter, but never mentioned a specific date.
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shaikhasm

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Are you logged in through a VPN? What is your current Sync version please? What is the size of the APIM update?
No, should I use a vpn when running fdrs and downloading the software?

Fdrs says 6 gb but it didn’t occur to me to check the drive itself, I’ll do that tomorrow and confirm.

this is my current version.

Ford F-150 ECU module programming guide using FDRS IMG_5573
 

shaikhasm

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If memory serves me right, this happens due to a bad 12v battery.

Plug the USB update FDRS made into the laptop and open it to look for the manifest file. The manifest file should outside of the folder labeled "fordsoftwareupdates" and not inside of it. If the manifest is inside the folder, take it out. If the manifest is outside the folder already, then it is most likely a bad battery, but you can try using a different USB.
car is practically new btw.

If the manifest is not in the USB update at all, then that's your problem.



Not yet. They said in was coming in the 4th quarter, but never mentioned a specific date.
Thanks. It’s about bedtime here. Will try these tomorrow and report back.
car is practically new btw. And I had two chargers connected in supply mode.
 

rugedraw

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Thanks. It’s about bedtime here. Will try these tomorrow and report back.
car is practically new btw. And I had two chargers connected in supply mode.
If the issue is the battery, you can have it connected to a nuclear power plant and it will still fail.
 

shaikhasm

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If the issue is the battery, you can have it connected to a nuclear power plant and it will still fail.
I just checked and the manifest is outside the folder. How do I diagnose a bad battery? I was watching voltage but it stayed at 13.9 the whole time.
 

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rugedraw

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I just checked and the manifest is outside the folder. How do I diagnose a bad battery? I was watching voltage but it stayed at 13.9 the whole time.
The only way to properly diagnose the battery with one of those dealer type testers that takes a few hours to diagnose all the cells. Voltage is one thing, but there are other factors like charge, capacity and BMS data that affect the way the truck sees the battery.

Try this variation of the procedure to reset BMS data from the Mach E forum to see if helps:
  1. Disconnect any and all accessories from the vehicle including hardwired dashcams, dashcam batteries, radar detectors, OBD port scan devices, 12V battery chargers etc. (Verify no fuses are tapped, nothing plugged in to OBD port, 12V ports, USB ports, or connected to the 12V battery).
  2. Fully close all windows and doors
  3. Remove all key fobs from the vehicle and place them at least 25' away (including vertically)
  4. Disable Bluetooth on your phone(s) so connections are not possible
  5. Disable any apps or widgets that ping the car for data
  6. Fully unplug the car (no charging of any kind, including 12V)
  7. Park the vehicle undisturbed for 6+ hours (8 hours recommended)
    1. Do not open, lock, or unlock any doors during this sleep period, ping the vehicle, refresh FordPass status, or cause any lights or screens to activate
  8. After the undisturbed sleep period, charge up the 12v battery to 100% and reset the BMS. To reset BMS, turn ignition on/engine off, flash high beams 5 times and step on brake 3 times. Battery icon will flash a few times in the IPC to confirm it was done.
 

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The only way to properly diagnose the battery with one of those dealer type testers that takes a few hours to diagnose all the cells. Voltage is one thing, but there are other factors like charge, capacity and BMS data that affect the way the truck sees the battery.

Try this variation of the procedure to reset BMS data from the Mach E forum to see if helps:
  1. Disconnect any and all accessories from the vehicle including hardwired dashcams, dashcam batteries, radar detectors, OBD port scan devices, 12V battery chargers etc. (Verify no fuses are tapped, nothing plugged in to OBD port, 12V ports, USB ports, or connected to the 12V battery).
  2. Fully close all windows and doors
  3. Remove all key fobs from the vehicle and place them at least 25' away (including vertically)
  4. Disable Bluetooth on your phone(s) so connections are not possible
  5. Disable any apps or widgets that ping the car for data
  6. Fully unplug the car (no charging of any kind, including 12V)
  7. Park the vehicle undisturbed for 6+ hours (8 hours recommended)
    1. Do not open, lock, or unlock any doors during this sleep period, ping the vehicle, refresh FordPass status, or cause any lights or screens to activate
  8. After the undisturbed sleep period, charge up the 12v battery to 100% and reset the BMS. To reset BMS, turn ignition on/engine off, flash high beams 5 times and step on brake 3 times. Battery icon will flash a few times in the IPC to confirm it was done.
You can just reset the BMS with FDRS while it open. I've done this before when FRDS was complaining about my battery SOC.
 

rugedraw

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You can just reset the BMS with FDRS while it open. I've done this before when FRDS was complaining about my battery SOC.
He can try, but if it still fails, I'd try the above.
 

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Also try different USB stick if you have one.
APIM can be picky for some people.
 

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Started on a new to me 2021 Powerboost in August 2024 with FDRS, tried following all the instructions to get my APIM updated (USB, ethernet, etc), ended up following the "just leave the flash drive in the port for a few weeks" wisdom, pulled it out after a month of no action before a 2 week vacation roadtrip, put it back in with no confidence after, and finally broke the digital dam about a week ago, completely out of the blue.
Bought another 2-day FDRS license and got it up to 23159 version 915. Only thing remaining in the queue is the steering column control update - anybody familiar with that one? I'd really like to be finished with this monotonous journey...
Ford F-150 ECU module programming guide using FDRS 20241017_124058
 

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If memory serves me right, this happens due to a bad 12v battery.

Plug the USB update FDRS made into the laptop and open it to look for the manifest file. The manifest file should outside of the folder labeled "fordsoftwareupdates" and not inside of it. If the manifest is inside the folder, take it out. If the manifest is outside the folder already, then it is most likely a bad battery, but you can try using a different USB.

If the manifest is not in the USB update at all, then that's your problem.



Not yet. They said in was coming in the 4th quarter, but never mentioned a specific date.
What is the new APIM update supposed to do when it arrives?
 

BlackSheep

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I'm hoping it will fix the issue with Carplay connecting but playing no audio all the time.
It doesn't occur as frequently on the new APIM version, but it still happens to me. I've learned to hold the power and the forward buttons on the radio to reboot, which fixes it every time.
 

Paul Neubauer

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It doesn't occur as frequently on the new APIM version, but it still happens to me. I've learned to hold the power and the forward buttons on the radio to reboot, which fixes it every time.
It has been happening 80% of the time when I start my truck.
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