Tim
Active member
- First Name
- Tim
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2021
- Threads
- 8
- Messages
- 36
- Reaction score
- 39
- Location
- Western PA
- Vehicles
- 2021 F-150 RCSB
You are correct smarty39.
Don't know why I fixated on Tremor
Here is a revised version:
I installed a paddle shift Raptor steering wheel conversion yesterday. - 2021 XLT RCSB 5.0 Column shift.
First: Thank you to suoerfordman and Alonzo8388 for the video, photos and other information that they provided. I absolutely could not have made the installation without their input.
A few observations:
The pin out diagram on post 39 by superfordman shows the positions looking in at the front of the pins. You are going to be looking at the back of the pins when doing your wiring taps. If you reverse the image, you will get a better rendition of the plug that you are going to see on the underside of the steering column (SCCM).
I used the taps specified by superfordman from Amazon.
There are two green/violet wires at the SCCM. Check to see that you are tapping in to the green/violet wire in position 12 and not position 15
On the white plug where you insert the DU2Z-14474-BA terminals:
Position 5 (White plug) taps into the gray wire at Position 11 - SCCM harness.
Position 6 (White plug) taps into the green/violet wire at Position 12 - SCCM harness.
Position 7 (White plug) taps into the blue wire at Position 9 - SCCM harness.
The DU2Z-14474-BA terminals did not easily slip into the white plug. I thought I had the wrong part but after double checking, the part I had was the one listed by superfordman on post 36.
I used pliers to insert the terminals.
I originally checked Ford online parts sellers for the DU2Z-14474-BA terminals but after shipping they cost a dollar more (for 5 – the smallest number you can buy) than the terminals I bought from the local dealer.
I switched the trim and buttons from my original XLT steering wheel to the Raptor steering wheel.
Removing the trim was not a “use your fingers” removal. After removing the two mounting bolts, I needed to pry the trim from the steering wheel. The trim on both the original and the Raptor wheel was really tight. I used a Metal Majery pry tool from Amazon.
The switches from the XLT steering wheel were plug and play to the Raptor wheel. All of the original XLT button functions work with the Raptor wheel.
In removing the knee panel from the dash, I needed to pry the top of the narrow panel at the bottom of the knee panel free to expose two mounting bolts for the upper part of the panel. Naturally, a couple of the clips broke but it went back together OK. Don’t know if I needed to remove the knee panel but I did.
The leather on the Raptor wheel is a higher quality than the leather on the XLT wheel and the wheel seems fatter – maybe because it is a heated wheel. There is a blind socket in the XLT clock spring for the heated plug from the Raptor wheel. I will not install the heated portion of the wheel.
The Raptor wheel cost $575 (made an offer) plus tax and shipping from eBay and was new with original wrapping according to the seller.
Don't know why I fixated on Tremor
Here is a revised version:
I installed a paddle shift Raptor steering wheel conversion yesterday. - 2021 XLT RCSB 5.0 Column shift.
First: Thank you to suoerfordman and Alonzo8388 for the video, photos and other information that they provided. I absolutely could not have made the installation without their input.
A few observations:
The pin out diagram on post 39 by superfordman shows the positions looking in at the front of the pins. You are going to be looking at the back of the pins when doing your wiring taps. If you reverse the image, you will get a better rendition of the plug that you are going to see on the underside of the steering column (SCCM).
I used the taps specified by superfordman from Amazon.
There are two green/violet wires at the SCCM. Check to see that you are tapping in to the green/violet wire in position 12 and not position 15
On the white plug where you insert the DU2Z-14474-BA terminals:
Position 5 (White plug) taps into the gray wire at Position 11 - SCCM harness.
Position 6 (White plug) taps into the green/violet wire at Position 12 - SCCM harness.
Position 7 (White plug) taps into the blue wire at Position 9 - SCCM harness.
The DU2Z-14474-BA terminals did not easily slip into the white plug. I thought I had the wrong part but after double checking, the part I had was the one listed by superfordman on post 36.
I used pliers to insert the terminals.
I originally checked Ford online parts sellers for the DU2Z-14474-BA terminals but after shipping they cost a dollar more (for 5 – the smallest number you can buy) than the terminals I bought from the local dealer.
I switched the trim and buttons from my original XLT steering wheel to the Raptor steering wheel.
Removing the trim was not a “use your fingers” removal. After removing the two mounting bolts, I needed to pry the trim from the steering wheel. The trim on both the original and the Raptor wheel was really tight. I used a Metal Majery pry tool from Amazon.
The switches from the XLT steering wheel were plug and play to the Raptor wheel. All of the original XLT button functions work with the Raptor wheel.
In removing the knee panel from the dash, I needed to pry the top of the narrow panel at the bottom of the knee panel free to expose two mounting bolts for the upper part of the panel. Naturally, a couple of the clips broke but it went back together OK. Don’t know if I needed to remove the knee panel but I did.
The leather on the Raptor wheel is a higher quality than the leather on the XLT wheel and the wheel seems fatter – maybe because it is a heated wheel. There is a blind socket in the XLT clock spring for the heated plug from the Raptor wheel. I will not install the heated portion of the wheel.
The Raptor wheel cost $575 (made an offer) plus tax and shipping from eBay and was new with original wrapping according to the seller.
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