No, you will need to use Forscan to enable the heated wheel to turn on when you press the heated wheel button on the HVAC module, along with telling the truck that you have an SCCM that has the heated wheel function
Well, neither the dealer or Ford is legally required to provide a loaner or rental vehicle. Loaner vehicles are at the expense of the dealership, hence why many went away from providing those. Sometimes if a warranty repair is going to be over a day or more Ford will cover the cost of a rental...
Having been to the F150 plant in Dearborn, I can tell you that Ford does NOT keep the line going with known issues. They stop to fix. This is a standard Lean principle that EVERY vehicle manufacturer has implemented. Every employee on that line has the ability to stop the line if needed.
Looks like something that is just asking to get caught on branches and roots sticking out of the ground between the "vents" as well as the bolts hanging down. Between the design and the metal that is too thin, this is not a serious option for anyone who goes offroad.
4 hours? No way it should take longer than an hour. I cant even fathom how your process as described is taking so long. Are you spending an hour spraying every crevice and inch underneath? If its just dust, take 5 mins on the undercarriage spray off. At least use a leaf blower for drying to...
I have reused shock bolts and nuts on many F150s over the years, never had one back off. Done it with steering wheel bolts too, and never had one loosen up. Thats not to say I am telling anyone to do the same.
I know this wont help the OP, but in my experience, across multiple brands/dealers, both on the consumer side and the fleet side, there is 0 correlation between how good a dealership is at sales vs service. Literally every vehicle I purchase, both for fleet and consumer, I do NOT use the same...
I probably wont be popular with the OP for this post, but I dont see any indications that this is a widely occurring issue, or that Ford acknowledges that. On top of that, I cant see any reason why they would cover this. Even if you were within your 36k warranty I am sure they would say that...
The dealer will only update modules that need updating. If they determine that all but the IPMA are up to date, then that is the only module that will get updated
Having owned 3 trucks that were originally sold in Canada and then shipped across the border, I would not hesitate to purchase one again. Importers have to put a new overlay on the speedometer so it will read as mph vs kmh (or if it is full digital gauges they just click a box under settings)...
On my '17, I ran a jumper wire on the back sided of the switch so that the truck saw the switch as being pushed as soon as the truck was started. Not sure what wires to connect for the '25, but that is the route I would look to.
Not lately. Thats really the only option I have left, but since my drops always happen at the exact same spots, and most of the time they are more of a sound cutout and carplay doesnt fully disconnect, I really dont think that it will solve anything. The fact wireless carplay works flawless in...
In my case I referenced the TSB and they were very familiar with it as they have updated a lot of trucks for this. They told me upfront that it could take anywhere from 2 hrs to 2 days depending on how many modules needed to be updated, but to definitely get it in before my 3/36 is up as I would...
TSB took my dealership 2 hours, as I only had 2 modules that needed to be updated. It did not fix my issues though. I still drop wireless Carplay when I get close to some high power transmission lines. When I drive my wife's Kia on this same route my phone does not disconnect from the wireless...
For those of you who have had the CarPlay TSB done, did it address your disconnecting issues? My CarPlay has been flawless for 2 years, but in the past month it has started disconnecting, but always in the same spots close to major power lines. Since it is always in these same spots that seems...
I think the only way to know for sure if you cant tell by listening would be to download your As Built files from Motorcraft, and see what line 727-01-01 has (xxxx xxxx 0x would be for the sound off), or connect Forscan and see.
Edit: reviewed my Forscan notes, and the fake engine noise was...
These buttons to the left of the steering wheel changed for '25. Ford removed the camera button from above the SYNC screen and moved it to this location, hence the 25 models not having the tailgate button.