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Adding a second battery to a 2021 F150 Hybrid

HammaMan

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Just need to figure out how wire in some additional HVBs in the Truck Bed.
I mean the DCACA is Y'd off of the same wires that run to the motor. Do with that what you will. Totally don't think about Y'n that circuit to run to the solar input side (500v rated MPPTs) of a solar inverter to generate 20+kW of AC power ;)
 

astrand1

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Not to get technical, but the Powerboost also has three batteries in total.
1 12v in the engine compartment
1 12v under the seat
1 48300v traction battery under the truck up in the frame


:wink:
Well yes. I did not include the HV since we were talking about 12v. I did not want to confuse anybody. ?
 

Henfield

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This was a perfect use case for a 100ah LFP battery! While it isn't a direct drop-in, jumper cables would start your truck if needed.
Jumper cables are so 1990's! Lithium battery jumper boxes are much better.
 

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HammaMan

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Jumper cables are so 1990's! Lithium battery jumper boxes are much better.
Until a module goes haywire and zeros out your batts. "Jump" packs and recovering from 0v on your batts are 2 different situations.
 

dochawk

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I was kind of surprised a week ago when I bought a car that had been sitting for several months and AAA started it instantly with one of those little packs. (well, after using both their bladder and one of mine to get in, as it came without a door key, and the battery was far to dead to operate the locks)
 

HammaMan

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I was kind of surprised a week ago when I bought a car that had been sitting for several months and AAA started it instantly with one of those little packs. (well, after using both their bladder and one of mine to get in, as it came without a door key, and the battery was far to dead to operate the locks)
Depends on the battery size. A PB w/ ~100ah worth of AGMs will just begin to eat the jump pack energy. If it's really stout it might be able to do it. The PB wants some healthy voltage on the bus before it will do its thing. The nice thing is that if there's sufficient HVB charge, it will turn on the DCDC and feed the system 220 amps worth of electrons at 15v.
 

tsigwing

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This battery, that's not currently available, will fit in the box if you cut up its internals. I have this battery for testing

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C3CZQCKP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's the BMS's logic in operation. This was back in april or may. Key on, key fob in-vehicle, hvac blower setting 5, this is what the truck's BMS does (above batt connected, keep in mind below 13.4v it's consuming the LFP for all vehicle loads ~50a)...


Mods to box to fit batt
1698794387442.png


1698794408246.png


1698794428655.png


1698794448078.png


lid

1698794493330.png


Results, fits with lid closed
1698794602142.png


Even this 'tiny' LFP is comperable to a 60ah lead acid battery in terms of usable energy it can deliver. This like installing an 8x larger aux batt vs the 7ah AGM.
Going to give this a go. Any advice? I see that lots of trimming is needed, what about the power connections?
 

HammaMan

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tsigwing

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If you happen to need the 125A fuse that is used by the 2nd battery, the part number is
JU5Z-14526-A
Don't ask me how I know.
 

HammaMan

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Discovering the 4th state of matter can be an electrifying experience :ROFLMAO:

I do want to hear this story though. I do always suggest disconnecting that wire in the passenger kick panel. It's got a solar style dually protected connector design so that when it's disconnected neither connector side can be shorted to ground.
 
 







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