3.5 has no compression on all cylinders.

[v8440]

I can't imagine a chain jumping advanced. If the chain skips, the resistance the valvetrain makes to being run would cause the crankshaft to slip ahead. The only way I could ever fathom the chain advancing is if the engine was running and slowing down pretty quickly right as the chain lifted up off the sprocket(s) such that the valvetrain got ahead because the bottom end slowed down more quickly than the valvetrain naturally would when not being driven by the engine. Other than that, no way.

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[Spiffy]

Does it give info to the direction it slipped if it happened during a starter bumps?
When I shut it down it was running fine. Just before I shut it down I used my scanner to check valve / crank orientation, dtc's, power balancing, cam drift, activated the activated the vct's. Nothing was out of wack.
Tool valve cover off. Bumped starter, herd crunching and then no compression.

 

[v8440]

Slippage during a starter bump would likely cause it to retard, as the starter would propel the bottom end ahead of the cams.

 

[Captain Dirty Beard]

Does it give info to the direction it slipped if it happened during a starter bumps?
When I shut it down it was running fine. Just before I shut it down I used my scanner to check valve / crank orientation, dtc's, power balancing, cam drift, activated the activated the vct's. Nothing was out of wack.
Tool valve cover off. Bumped starter, herd crunching and then no compression.

If you have the valve cover off, you should easily be able to use your bore scope to look at the crank sprocket

 

[Spiffy]

I got off work to late to drive the 30 miles to pick up my scope. Off work tomorrow
I think I said this before but I'm thinking that the chain tentioner was not pumped up . Thus the chain was loose when i bumped started it. The crunchy sound I heard down low probably was the chain climbing over the chain.

Do you think i will be able to see the silver chain link and the timing dot?

I've been thinking about this all day. There is no way in hell that I didn't smash valves. If i hit one i hit them all.

 

[HammaMan]

Might need the 90 degree mirror to see it

 

[FaaWrenchBndr]

I got off work to late to drive the 30 miles to pick up my scope. Off work tomorrow
I think I said this before but I'm thinking that the chain tentioner was not pumped up . Thus the chain was loose when i bumped started it. The crunchy sound I heard down low probably was the chain climbing over the chain.

Do you think i will be able to see the silver chain link and the timing dot?

I've been thinking about this all day. There is no way in hell that I didn't smash valves. If i hit one i hit them all.

A very good thought for sure…..

 

[Spiffy]

Well. It looks like the valves got hit.
Now I have to make a decision. Heads have to come off. I dont know how much additional work is needed after the timing cover is off. I have only done a half dozen timing replacements.

Can someone tell me how much damage worst case/best case valve damage to head to expect? The damage was done during starter speed.
Is it possible to only replace valves or replace the heads?
This is in a 2011 f150 ecoboost

I'm trying to decide if
1. I should fix it.
2. Replace engine (i can't lift cab)
Truck has only 110k and everything was really good up til now.
Truck is not worth much with bad engine but might be worth more even after repair.
I do know finding another +/-100k 4x4 crew Lariat is super high priced.
Thoughts?

 

[v8440]

I would find out how hard it is to pull/replace heads. It would be quicker and easier to replace the assembled heads with new assembled heads and fix the timing problem. However, if that requires lifting the cab then I dunno.

 

[HammaMan]

Well. It looks like the valves got hit.
Now I have to make a decision. Heads have to come off. I dont know how much additional work is needed after the timing cover is off. I have only done a half dozen timing replacements.

Can someone tell me how much damage worst case/best case valve damage to head to expect? The damage was done during starter speed.
Is it possible to only replace valves or replace the heads?
This is in a 2011 f150 ecoboost

I'm trying to decide if
1. I should fix it.
2. Replace engine (i can't lift cab)
Truck has only 110k and everything was really good up til now.
Truck is not worth much with bad engine but might be worth more even after repair.
I do know finding another +/-100k 4x4 crew Lariat is super high priced.
Thoughts?

Could you really tear into the motor and only replace the valves if it's possible? All accessible seals are a given. The best case is going to be determined by the state of the components.

 

[Spiffy]

Well. It looks like the valves got hit.
Now I have to make a decision. Heads have to come off. I dont know how much additional work is needed after the timing cover is off. I have only done a half dozen timing replacements.

Can someone tell me how much damage worst case/best case valve damage to head to expect? The damage was done during starter speed.
Is it possible to only replace valves or replace the heads?
This is in a 2011 f150 ecoboost

I'm trying to decide if
1. I should fix it.
2. Replace engine (i can't lift cab)
Truck has only 110k and everything was really good up til now.
Truck is not worth much with bad engine but might be worth more even after repair.
I do know finding another +/-100k 4x4 crew Lariat is super high priced.
Thoughts?

I would find out how hard it is to pull/replace heads. It would be quicker and easier to replace the assembled heads with new assembled heads and fix the timing problem. However, if that requires lifting the cab then I dunno.

I need to find out if it's possible to remove the heads without lifting the cab. I have access to a zero gravity work shop. Other than that I dont know how.

 

[Spiffy]

Could you really tear into the motor and only replace the valves if it's possible? All accessible seals are a given. The best case is going to be determined by the state of the components.

I guess. I wonder what the normal amount of damage is to the heads after contact in this engine. I had a opel gt and Chevy nova run for thousand miles after I had the same issue. Replaced the valves they slid in and out fine. I was 20. Didn't give a crap.

 

[Buyer2021]

I need to find out if it's possible to remove the heads without lifting the cab. I have access to a zero gravity work shop. Other than that I dont know how.

I know yours is a previous Gen, but FWIW the Gen 14 Workshop Manual has both "Body On" and "Body Off" procedures (in separate sections) for R&R of 3.5EB heads LH/RH and engine.

Might it be worth the ~$30 to get a 72-hour subscription to the Workshop Manual just to take a look at your year model's info (and print a ton of likely helpful pages, torque specs, etc during that 72 hours)?

Be aware, the subscription Workshop Manual must run on a Windows PC environment.

Just for your consideration, Good Luck!

 

[Spiffy]

If you think there is a cab on and cab off procedure I'm inclined to tackle it. As is the truck is worthless and in the condition it was Wednesday was about 7500.00. I will pick up a copy of that service manual to see.

I have been looking really hard for a lift that can fit my garage. It will only lift the cab 3.5 feet. That's enough to get to the rear of the engine.

 

[Buyer2021]

If you think there is a cab on and cab off procedure I'm inclined to tackle it.

All I'm saying is that the Gen 14 manual has such a procedure, I've no idea if that's true for the previous Gen.

FWIW, I'm attaching the two procedures (Body On / Body Off) for the 2022 F150 3.5EB LH Cylinder Head R&R [EDIT - removal only]. The attachments are from my 2022 Workshop Manual CDROM from Helm Inc., which is identical to what you see and get on the subscription website it's just 'frozen' at the revision date when the CDROM was produced (IOW, the subscription pages may have a later revision date that seen on the attached PDFs).

Note that many other sections are hyperlinked in these procedures, you jump to those in the subscription (or CDROM) Manual by clicking the hyperlinks. Note too that both procedures recommend using the 'Body Off' procedure.

Sorry, but all of the related sections is more than I can give to you here, you'll need to spend the $30 for the subscription to really look into this for your purposes.

Hope that helps, Good Luck!

EDIT - I just realized these sections are for removal only. There are separate sections in the WSM for installation (both Body On and Body Off) which have all of the critical bolt torques among other installation information.

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