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3.5 has no compression on all cylinders.

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Spiffy

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Thank you for that information. I have done many timing replacements in older trucks. I went through the procedures you sent on the 22. It's way more work than a 16 or older.
Removing the heads while in the truck looks doable but extremely difficult.
I think I need to figure out how to remove the cab.
At least lift it enough to get in there.
Thus might be the motivation I needed to finally install a lift.
Is it difficult to lift the cab? Lifting the cab offset trying to do the job while in the truck engine bay?
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So what was the cause of the damage? You can certainly replace the heads, but equally important is figured out what caused this in the first place. Replace the tensioners, guides, chains, VVT solenoids, and maybe even the phasers while you are in there
 
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I don't know yet. I cant get a bore scope down to the crank cam. Passage is too small. I'm trying to decide if I'm going to try to replace or r&r the heads. I dont have a lift to lift the cab. I researching to see if the motor comes out the front. I might do a swap.
I also don't know if I can pull the heads while the cab is on.
I took the day off the truck to replace a ipma connector that had a broken locking tab on my 22 f150 hybrid . That was not fun.

I have to wait to see if I can offer my son enough money to tear down the engine. I don't have enough patience anymore for mechanical crap. If he refuses then it's going to be sold as is.
I don't mind electrical.
 
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Whats the chances that the heads are ok and I just need to drop some new valves in? Are the guides toast always?
This truck is not worth very much. I woukd like to get another 10k miles out of it.
 

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I don't know yet. I cant get a bore scope down to the crank cam. Passage is too small. I'm trying to decide if I'm going to try to replace or r&r the heads. I dont have a lift to lift the cab. I researching to see if the motor comes out the front. I might do a swap.
I also don't know if I can pull the heads while the cab is on.
I took the day off the truck to replace a ipma connector that had a broken locking tab on my 22 f150 hybrid . That was not fun.

I have to wait to see if I can offer my son enough money to tear down the engine. I don't have enough patience anymore for mechanical crap. If he refuses then it's going to be sold as is.
I don't mind electrical.
These apply to a 3rd gen 3.5, but just to point out that it can be done with the cab on
 

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Spiffy

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I'm going to install a lift. This is my motivation finally.
Does anyone have experience in what it takes to lift the cab?
 

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Here ya go sir...
(he shares what it took on a Gen13. Should be very similar)

 
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I finally got around to working on thus engine. I gained access to the timing chain.
Im going to temporary re time the engine then do a compression/leak down test.
Right now I can't rotate the crank by hand more than about 30deg. Hard stop. I have resistance because it's hitting a open valve.
That's strange because before I tore it down I could rotate the motor with the starter and it didn't hit the valves.

Anyway in order to reset timing I'm going to have issues. I can remove the chain and try to turn the crank to TDC but the pistons are eventually going to contact a open valve.
Do I need to pull cams? Once they are out all the valves will be closed I assume as long as there isn't a stuck valve.
The reason I'm going to temporary re time is to see if or what valves are damaged on left side or right by doing a starter amp draw draw test on my scan tool. It will show what cylinder is low on compression.
I could also do a leak down test with the cams out. The scan tool is faster.
I don't want to pull both heads if I don't have to.
 
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Yep. Valves are toast. I have to remove the heads. I'm hoping i can pull the heads without removing the turbos. Looks like i can lift heads off with the exhaust manifold attached as long as it clears the turbos. I woukd hate to pull them
 

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Keep us informed pal
 

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Yep. Valves are toast. I have to remove the heads. I'm hoping i can pull the heads without removing the turbos. Looks like i can lift heads off with the exhaust manifold attached as long as it clears the turbos. I woukd hate to pull them
how did that work for you?
The exhaust manifolds are on studs, aren’t they? The heads have alignment dowels?
 
 







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