Adding a Sub to non-unleashed BO system

[lb18]

Nope, still puts out plenty of signal when you turn it up. My plan was to try it without an LC2i start then add it later if I thought it'd make a difference, but happy with how it sounds right now.

thanks for the feedback!

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[dm5point0]

Just added a 2nd Kicker Hideaway 10...and WOW!!! It will rattle your brain. I love it! @SoundsGoodStereo that rack board is a life saver.

 

[superfordman]

Just added a 2nd Kicker Hideaway 10...and WOW!!! It will rattle your brain. I love it! @SoundsGoodStereo that rack board is a life saver.

That looks awesome! I might have to try and LCi2 as well if it helps out that much. Can you fold you back seats up with everything back there and mounted to that rack?

 

[dm5point0]

That looks awesome! I might have to try and LCi2 as well if it helps out that much. Can you fold you back seats up with everything back there and mounted to that rack?

Yep...it folds up just fine.

 

[driniv]

Can this sub be installed in the non b&o systems, what difference would the installation be?

 

[superfordman]

Can this sub be installed in the non b&o systems, what difference would the installation be?

Yup, only different would be is you'd need to tie the signal into "ideally" the front speaker(s). The front speakers get more low end bass versus the rear speakers so they are a much better source.

 

[wsucoug]

Is there a general consensus for the people who have done the kicker install with and without the LC2i on whether the LC2i is needed?

I think I am going to be doing this install myself and seeing if the added complexity of the LC2i is worth the effort.

 

[dm5point0]

Is there a general consensus for the people who have done the kicker install with and without the LC2i on whether the LC2i is needed?

I think I am going to be doing this install myself and seeing if the added complexity of the LC2i is worth the effort.

The LC2i is not hard at all to add into the mix and I can state for sure that it makes a difference. There are few good YouTube videos on how to set it.

 

[Chili]

Thanks! Actually this was a super simple setup, if you did systems back in the day like I did, this is a cakewalk. Just run you battery wire up the trim on the drivers side then through a grommet on the firewall or the little one under the drivers carpet to the battery, run the ground to the smaller post as seen in my picture next to the factory amp. Then run the factor sub speaker wires into the speaker level input for the sub, I Y'd mine so that both the L and R are getting signal into the sub, and boom you're done. Use the auto turn on feature with the Kicker and that makes life even easier.

You'll also need this block off plate if you hopefully plan to remove the sorry excuse for a factory sub https://soundsgoodstereo.com/collec...ck-off-plate-for-rear-wall-includes-unleashed

I think I actually spent more time taking the factory sub out along with the back trim and what not, cleaning everything back there, installing my "custom" rear cab vent filters, than I did wiring everything for the sub.

Good info!

 

[Graygoose2021]

LC2i if you have an upgraded system more generally, base audio makes the HS10 easier. Just find a full range, or low end signal.
LC2i will flatten any OEM equalization they have, and give you a good flat signal. You can use an LC2i, or Kicker KEYLOC in both cases and be optimal as well.

 

[lb18]

Here is a pic of the setup I did…

Do you mind me asking what sub you got to fit? And did you have to trim anything?

 

[TJSparky]

Do you mind me asking what sub you got to fit? And did you have to trim anything?

It is a Rockford Fosgate 10” R2S-1X10
It fits good behind the seat but does require trimming out the back padded cover. I also had to trim a bolt that was used for securing the jack equipment I think. I just shaved the excess threads down to the nut.

 

[lb18]

It is a Rockford Fosgate 10” R2S-1X10
It fits good behind the seat but does require trimming out the back padded cover. I also had to trim a bolt that was used for securing the jack equipment I think. I just shaved the excess threads down to the nut.

Thanks for the feedback!

 

[GDN]

I finally got everything installed and let me tell you...it was so worth it! @SoundsGoodStereo really set me up with a great replacement set up with room to grow. Here is a list of what I got.

1. Kicker Hideaway 10 (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646HS10/Kicker-46HS10.html) Purchased before I knew about SGS
2. LC2i Pro (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC2IPRO/AudioControl-LC2i-PRO.html) Also purchased before I knew about SGS
3. Connector to B&O sub (https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...y-subwoofer-connection-harness-oval-subwoofer)
4. Block off plate for removing the B&O sub (https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...ck-off-plate-for-rear-wall-includes-unleashed)
5. Custom fit rack board to mount everything behind the seat (https://soundsgoodstereo.com/products/2015-ford-f-series-custom-made-amplifier-rack-plate)

That is all you need to swap out the stock stuff and add a much better sub that looks awesome and is SUPER easy to install. I did have @SoundsGoodStereo set me up with a full replacement set up as well. For now it is using the B&O amp, but it's ready for me to upgrade when I am ready thanks to the SGS folks (especially Don). Here is what I got for all of that set up.

1. Sound Deadening for whole cab (https://soundsgoodstereo.com/products/sql-audio-soundmat-bulk-pack-55sqft-10-sheets-per-box)
2. Arc Audio Replacement speakers (https://soundsgoodstereo.com/products/2015-ford-plug-play-arc-audio-speaker-kit-upgrade-packages) Look these things up...they are fantastic!
3. Custom Door block off plates (https://soundsgoodstereo.com/products/2021-2022-ford-f-150-custom-made-door-access-block-off-plates)

I can't tell you how easy this was thanks to the SGS guys setting it all up. It all showed up ready to just plug in and play. The hardest part was running the power and ground to the battery. I also did use this battery terminal that made things easier on that front too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JK9FTZI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I see since this post you've added a second sub. I don't figure I need 2 subs. I'll also note I've got a Lightning, but seems all of this setup is 100% compatible/same cheap B&O system.

How is the clarity and volume of the whole system since you are still running factory amp for the door speakers? Are they keeping up with the subs?

Did you disconnect the center speaker or do any other tuning?

I want to do an upgrade so bad, but don't really care to do it in stages and truly don't feel I should be dropping more than a couple thousand into it.

Before you added the second sub looks like you were already in for a bit over $2K.

You note SGS left you set up for future upgrades - is that to do something like add a Navtv Zen A2B device and external amp for the door speakers?

Thanks for your help and blazing the trail.

 

[lb18]

ended up going with a Rockford fosgate 12” sub and an Audiocontrol converter/amp combo. Super easy install and now I feel like I have some real bass. A few pics.

I bought the same amp for my sub and have it stored in the same location under the seat. What did you use to secure the amp from moving around?

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