Awesome, glad to hear, you guys convinced me, just got mine orderedJust had the Kicker HS10 added to my non-unleashed B&O system today and am blown away at the difference it makes. I kept the factory sub and installed the Kicker behind the rear passenger seat. Besides that, I added nothing else to my set up. Was well worth the $300-and-some-odd dollars.
Thats the same spot i put mine. Great liitle nook to keep it cleanNo, only used what was in the sub package and some extra speaker wire. Friend of mine installed it. We took out the jack and mounted the sub in its place. Used the power from the 12V battery there and tapped into the factor sub wiring, then used Velcro to secure the the bass control in a hidden position (second picture shows what it looks like in person, while third pic shows it with flash) in the lower storage area on the drivers side of the center counsel.
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What do you have your Gain/BassLevel/Crossovers set at on the Kicker HS10 when tapping into the B&O subwoofer wires. Also where did you place ur attach ur 12v remote turn on wire at?No, only used what was in the sub package and some extra speaker wire. Friend of mine installed it. We took out the jack and mounted the sub in its place. Used the power from the 12V battery there and tapped into the factor sub wiring, then used Velcro to secure the the bass control in a hidden position (second picture shows what it looks like in person, while third pic shows it with flash) in the lower storage area on the drivers side of the center counsel.
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Just got done putting mine in! I played with the settings for a bit and best I came up with is Gain at 0, crossover at 3/4 to full (already using the sub signal so should be crossovered already), and Bass at about 3/4 or tad higher. I usually run the Bass on the radio at 2 or 3 clicks below max.What do you have your Gain/BassLevel/Crossovers set at on the Kicker HS10 when tapping into the B&O subwoofer wires. Also where did you place ur attach ur 12v remote turn on wire at?
Where did you wire the 12v turn on for the subwoofer too?Here is where I put mine, ditech the factory one completely, blocked off the hole, and this fits perfectly in the same spot.
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This is the nicest and most factory looking install I've seen. Is there any chance you could do a very basic writeup with wiring info? I'm relatively well-versed in electronics, and I did a few 'systems' back in the day, but it's been a while. Curious about the wiring and any other changes necessary to install this thing. Thank you!Here is where I put mine, ditech the factory one completely, blocked off the hole, and this fits perfectly in the same spot.
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interested in this as wellThis is the nicest and most factory looking install I've seen. Is there any chance you could do a very basic writeup with wiring info? I'm relatively well-versed in electronics, and I did a few 'systems' back in the day, but it's been a while. Curious about the wiring and any other changes necessary to install this thing. Thank you!
I didn't lol there is an auto turn on feature with this sub, so just using that and works just fineWhere did you wire the 12v turn on for the subwoofer too?
Thanks! Actually this was a super simple setup, if you did systems back in the day like I did, this is a cakewalk. Just run you battery wire up the trim on the drivers side then through a grommet on the firewall or the little one under the drivers carpet to the battery, run the ground to the smaller post as seen in my picture next to the factory amp. Then run the factor sub speaker wires into the speaker level input for the sub, I Y'd mine so that both the L and R are getting signal into the sub, and boom you're done. Use the auto turn on feature with the Kicker and that makes life even easier.This is the nicest and most factory looking install I've seen. Is there any chance you could do a very basic writeup with wiring info? I'm relatively well-versed in electronics, and I did a few 'systems' back in the day, but it's been a while. Curious about the wiring and any other changes necessary to install this thing. Thank you!
Great, thanks for the help! Nice find on that blanking plate, too.Thanks! Actually this was a super simple setup, if you did systems back in the day like I did, this is a cakewalk. Just run you battery wire up the trim on the drivers side then through a grommet on the firewall or the little one under the drivers carpet to the battery, run the ground to the smaller post as seen in my picture next to the factory amp. Then run the factor sub speaker wires into the speaker level input for the sub, I Y'd mine so that both the L and R are getting signal into the sub, and boom you're done. Use the auto turn on feature with the Kicker and that makes life even easier.
You'll also need this block off plate if you hopefully plan to remove the sorry excuse for a factory sub https://soundsgoodstereo.com/collec...ck-off-plate-for-rear-wall-includes-unleashed
I think I actually spent more time taking the factory sub out along with the back trim and what not, cleaning everything back there, installing my "custom" rear cab vent filters, than I did wiring everything for the sub.
Did you connect this to a LC2i to level the bass when you turn up the volume? Just curious if that is a necessary step or if you can get by without it. ThanksHere is where I put mine, ditech the factory one completely, blocked off the hole, and this fits perfectly in the same spot.
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Nope, still puts out plenty of signal when you turn it up. My plan was to try it without an LC2i start then add it later if I thought it'd make a difference, but happy with how it sounds right now.Did you connect this to a LC2i to level the bass when you turn up the volume? Just curious if that is a necessary step or if you can get by without it. Thanks