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Transmission Fluid Change Reaction

Gros Ventre

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When they say $600 for a fluid change they're scamming you because they don't want to do it... I've had it done on my 21 Powerboost every 15,000 miles on GP... the rationale is I want to get rid of manutacturing debris that may be in it. Note that the filter is a different one than a stock 3.5L Eco-Boost. I always change oil & filter. It's a pricey item because it's a bit more complex than the filters you're been used to. All told my changes ran about $150 (filter, 5 qts, labor). Also note that the filling procedure is actually complex. My dealer didn't get it right the first time and had to fiddle with it after they were nominally "done."
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WhiteLightningnshitshadow

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Wait you guys don't just buy a whole new 10r80 every 60,001 miles? Jk, well actually I'd like to see some high mileage transmissions here that haven't needed work.

I plan on having mine done at 50k and I'm a very light driver.
 

HammaMan

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FWIW, my 2 fluid life calculations were done for 2 different calculations. The first takes a look at 30k mile 5qts refresh and then takes 30% of the refreshed fluid's estimated life. So if it's 78% life remaining at 30kmiles after 5qts refresh, well taking that % off the remaining percentage yields a higher number. ie: If life is 78%, reducing that by only 30% of 78% = higher than substracting a straight 30% points as 78-30=48, vs 78%*.7 (30% reduction)=54.6

Ford F-150 Transmission Fluid Change Reaction 1699753774715


In the second graph I took the interval to 1/3 of 100k, or 33,333 miles and basically said that regardless of % life of the fluid, degradation always took 30% of 100% life, or in this case 33%.

Ford F-150 Transmission Fluid Change Reaction 1699754089088


So top is best case but at 30k mileage refresh, bottom is worst case always assuming 33.3% as an absolute point value. It could be argued either way.

What this shows is best / worst fluid condition doing partial fluid refreshes. Keep in mind it's neigh impossible to do a 100% fluid exchange due to torque converter always mixing all fluid that enters it and there's nothing a fluid flushing machine can do to change that so there's always at least 4qts of old fluid/new fluid mix. I think this easily ends the discussion as to which is the best approach. The truth as to fluid life is probably somewhere in the middle.
 
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Snakebitten

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The procedure for proper fill is quite complicated for PBs due to lack of ICE control in Park. Does the tech manual walk through how to do it properly?
There is a maintenance procedure for keeping ICE running so that the transmission oil can reach 205F.
 

SALEEN961

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There is a maintenance procedure for keeping ICE running so that the transmission oil can reach 205F.
Follow the steps below to enter the engine running diagnostic mode:
  1. Place the vehicle in PARK.
  2. Push the start button to enter the accessory mode.
  3. Press the brake pedal and accelerator pedal together for 5 seconds.
  4. Steps 5 & 6 should be performed within 15 seconds after completing Step 3.
  5. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals.
  6. Press the brake pedal and push the start button so that the vehicle is in drivable state.
  7. Press the brake pedal and accelerator pedal together for 5 seconds.
  8. NOTE: The READY TO DRIVE or DRIVE symbol should be flashing on the instrument cluster at a regular interval when the Engine Running diagnostic mode is active.
When this sequence is complete, the vehicle enters the diagnostic mode and the engine should remain running continuously.
 

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Samson16

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Follow the steps below to enter the engine running diagnostic mode:
  1. Place the vehicle in PARK.
  2. Push the start button to enter the accessory mode.
  3. Press the brake pedal and accelerator pedal together for 5 seconds.
  4. Steps 5 & 6 should be performed within 15 seconds after completing Step 3.
  5. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals.
  6. Press the brake pedal and push the start button so that the vehicle is in drivable state.
  7. Press the brake pedal and accelerator pedal together for 5 seconds.
  8. NOTE: The READY TO DRIVE or DRIVE symbol should be flashing on the instrument cluster at a regular interval when the Engine Running diagnostic mode is active.
When this sequence is complete, the vehicle enters the diagnostic mode and the engine should remain running continuously.
Excellent, so my tech needs to make sure they follow the Powerboost procedure and aren’t rushed for time with 18 other Ecoboost vehicles in line. The double push Texas Two Step isn’t difficult by itself.
 

Snakebitten

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Excellent, so my tech needs to make sure they follow the Powerboost procedure and aren’t rushed for time with 18 other Ecoboost vehicles in line. The double push Texas Two Step isn’t difficult by itself.
You have a tech?
One that doesn't refuse to touch your Powerboost?

Rumors around here are that Ford dealerships no longer purchase them, sell them, or service them. ?
 

JExpedition07

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The key is to change out the transmission fluid filter and clean your magnets/pan when you do a pan drop. Dont skip the filter.
 

FirstFord

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Follow the steps below to enter the engine running diagnostic mode:
  1. Place the vehicle in PARK.
  2. Push the start button to enter the accessory mode.
  3. Press the brake pedal and accelerator pedal together for 5 seconds.
  4. Steps 5 & 6 should be performed within 15 seconds after completing Step 3.
  5. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals.
  6. Press the brake pedal and push the start button so that the vehicle is in drivable state.
  7. Press the brake pedal and accelerator pedal together for 5 seconds.
  8. NOTE: The READY TO DRIVE or DRIVE symbol should be flashing on the instrument cluster at a regular interval when the Engine Running diagnostic mode is active.
When this sequence is complete, the vehicle enters the diagnostic mode and the engine should remain running continuously.
Is this procedure exclusive to PB, or is it applicable to EB as well?
 

Samson16

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The key is to change out the transmission fluid filter and clean your magnets/pan when you do a pan drop. Dont skip the filter.
Thanks for that.
Getting the fluid level correct seems to be important with the 10R80, and that's part of what all the clutch actuating machinations are for. force the fluid out of one area and into another etc., correct?
 

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Gros Ventre

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You have a tech?
One that doesn't refuse to touch your Powerboost?

Rumors around here are that Ford dealerships no longer purchase them, sell them, or service them. ?
My dealer (Lithia Ford of Idaho Falls) has been very good on things. The relationship with the Service Advisors is good.
 

Samson16

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Lack of ice control in park? Wtf?

There no manual override? Sport mode?
There is a diagnostic mode I’ve learned here, but we don’t have an auto start/stop feature. The ICE runs or doesn’t run based on the situation.
 

JExpedition07

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Thanks for that.
Getting the fluid level correct seems to be important with the 10R80, and that's part of what all the clutch actuating machinations are for. force the fluid out of one area and into another etc., correct?
And it seems many are not correct from the factory. My buddies 2021 3.5 EB with 3.55 has clunked and banged gears since it was brand new. He recently got so sick of it he took it in and the dealer….who found it was almost 2 quarts low from the factory fill as no leaks were present. My 2023 5.0 with 3.31 has presented the same symptoms since day one with banging and clanking when downshifting coming to a stop, so now he advised me I need to check the fluid level. Once mine warms up shifts get smooth, which his dealer told him is due to the fluid expanding and normalizing pressures/operation. Cool ford. Thanks.
 

SALEEN961

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Is this procedure exclusive to PB, or is it applicable to EB as well?
It only applies to the Powerboost, with all the other engines you can just turn off auto start/stop to keep the engine running.
 
 







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