Transmission Fluid Change 99,000 miles?

[MJG44]

I just rolled over 68k.
Will be doing fluid change within the next month when completing winter maintenance and rustprooofing. Same with my Expedition at 52k. Same transmission.

Should probably deal with the combined 7 recalls due between them as well.

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[FirstFord]

Theres a big difference between a flush and a fluid exchange. Fluid exchange uses a DT-45096 TransFlow and you do not flush. They open the circuit at the cooler lines. Youre really just getting all new fluid and the trans saw no pressures or directions of flow that were any different than usual.
Not a flush. not a back flush.
They dont flush on the machine, just flow.

I was unaware of the distinction. I've been using the terms interchangeably, thinking they were two different terms for the very same process (although I never considered a "back-flush" into the equation).

I am not familiar with the machine that you referenced, so I did a quick look on tne internet (VERY quick look; not a deep dive at all), and saw what you were talking about. Adding to my confusion is one of the sentences used in the description of the use of the machine:

"The DT-45096 (previously J-45096) TransFlow® transmission oil cooler flush and flow test tool can be used to flush and flow test the transmission oil cooler and the oil cooler pipes after the transmission has been removed for repairs."

So, I'm still unsure of the difference....

 

[TheGoatman]

It’s not a backflush which is what I was getting at. I clarified my initial post. The idea of this way is the trans does not see anything different than normal operation.

It’s been a few years since ive seen the details but one way kills a trans and the other way has been documented on a high number of vehicles citing improvements long term. The cost for the dealer to do this is not terribly more than the cost of the fluid from walmart. So I will do that until I think the filter is getting full. Then it will get a pan drop

 

[Jmitchelltfo]

It’s not a backflush which is what I was getting at. I clarified my initial post. The idea of this way is the trans does not see anything different than normal operation.

It’s been a few years since ive seen the details but one way kills a trans and the other way has been documented on a high number of vehicles citing improvements long term. The cost for the dealer to do this is not terribly more than the cost of the fluid from walmart. So I will do that until I think the filter is getting full. Then it will get a pan drop

I asked my dealer to do a flush on my powerboost. They quoted me $200 for the labor since I already had 15 quarts of ULV. They ended up forgetting to do it while it was there for some warranty work. I kept my $200 and did the drain/fill procedure twice over a weekend. 10 fresh quarts in along with 10 ounces of lubeguard platinum and my pickup shifted great for the next 20k miles.

I am currently at 71k and the fluid is still nice and red, but the bad behavior is back.
I'm really hoping that my clunks and wonky shifts mean a CDF drum or full trans replacement will be coming soon........better now than after my warranty expires in 50k.

 

[roadPilot]

I kept my $200 and did the drain/fill procedure twice over a weekend. 10 fresh quarts in along with 10 ounces of lubeguard platinum and my pickup shifted great for the next 20k miles.

I am currently at 71k and the fluid is still nice and red, but the bad behavior is back.
I'm really hoping that my clunks and wonky shifts mean a CDF drum or full trans replacement will be coming soon........better now than after my warranty expires in 50k.

Just did a whole bunch of stuff between 83K and 85K miles just a few weeks ago: New slotted/drilled rotors & ceramic pads, trans and diff fluid drain/fill, tune up, oil & filter, etc.. I replaced the trans and diff pans with PPE aftermarket pans (with drain bolts to make future drains easy) and replaced the trans filter. I was very meticulous about getting the trans fluid correct @ full temp.

Truck was shifting fine before I did all this, but thought I would do it as PM. It was fine for another few weeks after the work, too, but the next couple of weeks and shifting went all to hell. Banging and clunking, especially 1-2. Also, I could be in cruise control at 72 MPH and it would constantly shift down from 10 to 9 and back up to 10 for no apparent reason.

None of this happened before. I cleared the adaptive shifting tables and spent the next 2 weeks seeing it get better, but certainly not 100%. Probably 95%. The 1-2 heaving clunking is gone, but it's still doing the 10-9-10 thing and randomly seems to feel like it loses power for 1/2 second then picks back up.

At 85K miles, I took this as a sign that things COULD get worse with the 10R80, so I had to make one more change: I'm trading it in on a 2026 F350 on THU. Got a GREAT trade in offer on the '21.

 

[Jmitchelltfo]

At 85K miles, I took this as a sign that things COULD get worse with the 10R80, so I had to make one more change: I'm trading it in on a 2026 F350 on THU. Got a GREAT trade in offer on the '21.

10R140 is supposed to have less issues. A tune or an aftermarket valve body is the best thing for them from what I've read.

Did you choose the Godzilla or Powerstroke?

 

[XLT22]

Drop the pan - change filter, gasket and fluid. Just did mine at 83K and immediate improvement. Shifts weren’t bad before but soooo better after.

Gaskets are and should be reused unless it's damaged.

 

[roadPilot]

10R140 is supposed to have less issues. A tune or an aftermarket valve body is the best thing for them from what I've read.

Did you choose the Godzilla or Powerstroke?

Powerstroke all the way.

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