PowerBoost 1.5 - We Need More Than Idiot Lights

[nitrobass24]

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/powerboost-1-4-we-need-more-than-idiot-lights.19352/

Thanks when i searched obdlink in the app store I saw so many apps...the "obdlink" app didnt seem to match up with what I was expecting based on the screenshots in the app store.

@Snakebitten what phone mount is that? I like that its nice and high. does it block the air vent?

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[Snakebitten]

Pro-Clip.
A bit pricey, I felt, when I ordered it.
But once I received it, I understood how they are getting away with charging a premium.

It's just plain engineered well.
Sturdy, and cleverly attaches to the truck without marring anything.

 

[ReverendQ]

Pro-Clip.
A bit pricey, I felt, when I ordered it.
But once I received it, I understood how they are getting away with charging a premium.

It's just plain engineered well.
Sturdy, and cleverly attaches to the truck without marring anything.

@Snakebitten take a look at https://www.f150forum.com/f129/what-did-you-do-your-14th-gen-today-498112/index312/#post7427929 post #3120 . Yes a bit of vent block but that is a good thing as sometimes phones can overheat when fast charging and screen ON a long time and/or sun hitting them. I point my AC vent onto the phone a bit to help prevent this.

 

[Addabob64]

OBDLink App is using BlueTooth to talk to the OBD MX+ reader, WiFi is not in the mix. I only do wired CarPlay to keep the WiFi radio available for other purposes with CarPlay.

And yes the iPhone will simultaneously support ODBLink app via BlueTooth and CarPlay compatible apps via wired USB CarPlay. Running down the road I have OBDLink app displayed on the iPhone screen while running Google Maps in the background on the iPhone driving the CarPlay Sync 4 display. The iPhone in this configuration is getting data via the cellular modem or in my use case via WiFi from Starlink.

No doubt some reformatting will be needed to fit all the screen sizes. That is pretty easy to do. My hope is that other folks will post .stg files reformatting what I have done to fit other devices.

I finally got the ODBLink MX+ in and got the .stg file downloaded. Cannot get things to work correctly here on my '21. I tried all of the things listed in this thread, with no luck. I have my '21 now listed as a '22, I have reloaded everything 3 times. But many values or gauges are just displaying 0s:

• HV Bat temp
• HV A/C Compressor
• DC/DC HV In
• DC/DC Amps Out
• 14V Bat Amps
• 14V Bat
• 14V SOC
• 280V SOC
• 280V Bat

I think this is the same list as another '21 guy specified, but he was able to fix it by picking 2022 as the vehicle year, which I have done....

ICE On:

ICE Off:

I try to go in and see if I can locate the right PIDs for each gauge/value, but the truck modules I need are not listed. I am now seeing that it may not show them while in the truck, so I will need to play around with it a bit.

Initially, I downloaded the ODBLink extended PIDs for 2021, but after I deleted the ODBLink app and deleted/reset the BT connection to the device, I only specified it to download the '22 Extended PIDs.

Any suggestions would be welcome. I am sure it is something stupid I am doing. I am usually not quite this dense....

Thanks for any guidance you can provide.

 

[turbopilot]

I finally got the ODBLink MX+ in and got the .stg file downloaded. Cannot get things to work correctly here on my '21. I tried all of the things listed in this thread, with no luck. I have my '21 now listed as a '22, I have reloaded everything 3 times. But many values or gauges are just displaying 0s:

• HV Bat temp
• HV A/C Compressor
• DC/DC HV In
• DC/DC Amps Out
• 14V Bat Amps
• 14V Bat
• 14V SOC
• 280V SOC
• 280V Bat

I think this is the same list as another '21 guy specified, but he was able to fix it by picking 2022 as the vehicle year, which I have done....

ICE On:


ICE Off:


I try to go in and see if I can locate the right PIDs for each gauge/value, but the truck modules I need are not listed. I am now seeing that it may not show them while in the truck, so I will need to play around with it a bit.

Initially, I downloaded the ODBLink extended PIDs for 2021, but after I deleted the ODBLink app and deleted/reset the BT connection to the device, I only specified it to download the '22 Extended PIDs.

Any suggestions would be welcome. I am sure it is something stupid I am doing. I am usually not quite this dense....

Thanks for any guidance you can provide.

So when you select a non functioning gauge go to "Display Configuration" > "PID" > "Ford, Lincoln, Mercury" >

You can't find the right module or you can't find the correct PID in the module?

I ran the OBDLink App successfully on both a 2021 PB and a 2023PB, so I know it works with the 2021 PB.

 

[Addabob64]

So when you select a non functioning gauge go to "Display Configuration" > "PID" > "Ford, Lincoln, Mercury" >

You can't find the right module or you can't find the correct PID in the module?

When I was in the truck, the the field was red... When I came back inside and was looking, it is now showing the modules and PIDs. So I went back out and it now seems to be working... I changed nothing... So not sure what I did to get things working. Going to go take a drive now to see how it all looks.

Thanks so much for the quick reply.

 

[Addabob64]

So now I have the OBDLink working with @turbopilot .stg template. Awesome work for sure! Now I just have to try and understand SOC for the 280V battery. It is not acting the way I thought things worked, especially when comparing it to the 12V battery.

I went for a drive and turned on the powerflow display to see what the truck said it was doing with the battery. I expected to see the SOC increase when running on the highway since the ICE was engaged. I saw just the opposite. Even though the PF display was showing the HV battery green (charging), the SOC would not really go up. It was running in the 42-46 range. It wouldn't change much when I saw the HV battery in PF turn to blue, showing it was contributing to the power to the wheels, like during acceleration from 65 to 70.

Going down the highway, I didn't really see much change in that 42-46 range. As I decelerated, the SOC value would increase pretty quickly, I assume, from the regenerative braking. When going slow, it got up to as high as 64, but then went right back down to 42-46 after accelerating back up to the highway speeds. I have a county road to traverse when coming to my house, so it is slower speeds on those sections. The HV SOC got back up to 53 when I parked it.

On the 280V battery amps gauge, does a negative value mean it is using energy stored in the battery, or does it mean that the net in/out is negative, therefore it is charging?

With the 12v system, as you run down the road, it charges the battery from the alternator. My SOC is running at 94-96. When I left for my test run, it was 94, and when I returned and parked it was 96. That is what I expected the HV SOC to do as I drove, but I am way off.

I have a lot of research to do to see if I can figure out how this HV system is working and how the SOC readings are determined. I am completely confused about it right now.

Thanks again TurboPilot!! Have a great evening!

 

[turbopilot]

On the 280V battery amps gauge, does a negative value mean it is using energy stored in the battery, or does it mean that the net in/out is negative, therefore it is charging?


Thanks again TurboPilot!! Have a great evening!
[/QUOTE]

Yes, negative indication on the 280v battery indicates amps moving from the traction motor to the HV battery. That is baked into the PID. Guess it could be flipped with a User Function but I have not figured out how to do that.

 

[Samson16]

With the 12v system, as you run down the road, it charges the battery from the alternator. My SOC is running at 94-96. When I left for my test run, it was 94, and when I returned and parked it was 96. That is what I expected the HV SOC to do as I drove, but I am way off.

There is no alternator. There is a DC/DC converter that receives power from the high voltage bus and converts it to feed the low voltage bus. In that way it performs the function an alternator would do if we had one, but we don't.

The HVB SOC is kept within a certain range to maximize battery life and it responds very quickly to both charge and discharge in that range. It may not be perfect, but that was the plan I think.

The green and blue power flow indications are telling you the direction of current flow, just not how much unfortunately.

 

[Addabob64]

There is no alternator. There is a DC/DC converter that receives power from the high voltage bus and converts it to feed the low voltage bus. In that way it performs the function an alternator would do if we had one, but we don't.

The HVB SOC is kept within a certain range to maximize battery life and it responds very quickly to both charge and discharge in that range. It may not be perfect, but that was the plan I think.

The green and blue power flow indications are telling you the direction of current flow, just not how much unfortunately.

Thanks for the clarification on the 12v. I wasn’t aware that is how it works. Learn something new every day.

As for the PF display, yes it just flashed green or blue with the line from the engine into the battery pack when green/charging and to the rear wheels when blue/discharging. I was trying to relate that display to what is was seeing on the HV SOC values in OBDLink. I obviously wasn’t successful…

I have a lot to educate myself on.

Thanks again!

 

[Briansk12]

My 14V SOC will not go higher than 86 even after an hour drive. Should I be worried?

 

[Snakebitten]

My 14V SOC will not go higher than 86 even after an hour drive. Should I be worried?

In my opinion, you are describing a battery that can't really hold a static charge above ~12.7 volts.

My battery is the original from April 2022, and even when I have completed a full reconditioning/charge over as many as 16 hours, as soon as I disconnect the battery maintainer, it quickly, within a few minutes, drops from ~13.2 to 12.7

It's just no longer a 100% healthy battery.

So just like you describe, no matter how long my trip is in the truck, the onboard SOC pid will hover no higher than the high 80's%. Which I believe mirrors it's max ability to hold charge.

You could try a long trip with the HVAC fan at 5+. It definitely raises the voltage from the DC/DC converter and provides additional charging current. But if the battery can't sustain the higher voltage it just can't get a higher SOC.

However, if your battery IS at 85% SOC or higher I don't think you will experience 12V related issues.

 

[Addabob64]

On the 280V battery amps gauge, does a negative value mean it is using energy stored in the battery, or does it mean that the net in/out is negative, therefore it is charging?


Thanks again TurboPilot!! Have a great evening!

Yes, negative indication on the 280v battery indicates amps moving from the traction motor to the HV battery. That is baked into the PID. Guess it could be flipped with a User Function but I have not figured out how to do that.
[/QUOTE]
Yes, I figured it was a function of the Ford implementation. I wasn't sure which way they did it. I jusr added a range color to each side, with the negative values showing green range bar and the positive values showing a red range bar. That will help me keep it clear in my head.

I started reading up on the HV system and many of the great posts by people on here, like you, @Snakebitten, @Vulnox, @rugedraw and others. Great info, like the discussions on the starter/generator combo on the PB.

As for the OBD stuff, I see that there is a program called OBDWiz that runs on a Windows computer. Are you familiar with that Win app? I was trying to see if there is a way to create dashboards on a computer that will run on the phone (iOS in my case). I don't have a Windows computer, but if this is something that might be possible, I could create a Windows VM to give it a try. I didn't want to invest the time in doing this if it is already known to not support this.

Thanks!

 

[DrBST]

Howdy Y'all,

Disclaimer first that I don't know what I don't know: Wikipedia: State of Charge and I don't know how SoC is being measured by Ford and subsequently displayed via Turbopilot's interface. What I "think" I know (at least what makes sense to me) is that there could be multiple factors that influence SoC (temperature, age, ...).

However I'm hoping to call upon the collective wisdom here to help me understand why my 280V SoC never seems to rise beyond the low 60s (it usually sits at around 48 - 53 post drive where the ICE is warm and has been engaged regularly), however the actual voltage is reading 290+ (in the particular screen capture below, but this doesn't seem all that uncommon - BTW: this is parked in my garage at the end of the drive and the ICE had been running ~1-2 min, it cut out just after I took this capture).

By comparison, if its a fair comparison, the 14V SoC is regularly around 85 - 90 and the voltage reading is ~13.5 - 13.8 at the end of a drive.

I'm not worried about it, but trying to learn something new. So... thoughts?

-Brian

 

[turbopilot]

However I'm hoping to call upon the collective wisdom here to help me understand why my 280V SoC never seems to rise beyond the low 60s (it usually sits at around 48 - 53 post drive where the ICE is warm and has been engaged regularly), however the actual voltage is reading 290+ (in the particular screen capture below, but this doesn't seem all that uncommon - BTW: this is parked in my garage at the end of the drive and the ICE had been running ~1-2 min, it cut out just after I took this capture).

By comparison, if its a fair comparison, the 14V SoC is regularly around 85 - 90 and the voltage reading is ~13.5 - 13.8 at the end of a drive.

I'm not worried about it, but trying to learn something new. So... thoughts?

-Brian

I think Ford is trying to control warranty cost by managing the HV battery for longer life. Just waiting for a FORSCAN hack to allow using the battery from 100% to 10%.

Meanwhile working on version 1.5.

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