Installed Transfer Switch in House

[machz]

I have a Rheem 50 gal hybrid electric water heater and it will run it just fine. I run heat pump only for a family of 4 and I have never run out of hot water and it only uses 2.5kWh per day.

I run everything but my microwave including my well pump.

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[MattM]

ITS ALIVE! I used the Generac 6852 from this thread, and a reliance 30a power input box. The generac doesn't come with the plug. I had to order it from the web and inside the box were about 5 pieces of paper that said "If product is faulty, do not return to the store." So you'll be forced to work with generac if it comes broken. You may be able to purchase from a local generac dealer, I didn't try.
Anyway, the generac works great. I have most of my house hooked up to the 10 circuits with the exception of heat and AC. Going to get a small portable AC unit for a sleeping room, or look into the multi split AC thing. Our unit is 20a constant, so even with a soft starter it just wasn't worth taking most of the power.
The only time the truck threw a ground fault was when we used the manual switch on the box to go from generator to utility power and the generator was still connected. It threw the ground fault when the generac box cut it off, as intended.

If you are in Jax / St Aug etc, call these guys. The number on their google listing is their house phone, this is their cell. Jack's Electrical Services - 904 626 8230

ITS ALIVE! I used the Generac 6852 from this thread, and a reliance 30a power input box. The generac doesn't come with the plug. I had to order it from the web and inside the box were about 5 pieces of paper that said "If product is faulty, do not return to the store." So you'll be forced to work with generac if it comes broken. You may be able to purchase from a local generac dealer, I didn't try.
Anyway, the generac works great. I have most of my house hooked up to the 10 circuits with the exception of heat and AC. Going to get a small portable AC unit for a sleeping room, or look into the multi split AC thing. Our unit is 20a constant, so even with a soft starter it just wasn't worth taking most of the power.
The only time the truck threw a ground fault was when we used the manual switch on the box to go from generator to utility power and the generator was still connected. It threw the ground fault when the generac box cut it off, as intended.

If you are in Jax / St Aug etc, call these guys. The number on their google listing is their house phone, this is their cell. Jack's Electrical Services - 904 626 8230

I have been looking to use the Generac 6852 but am not clear what to do with a Main Service that uses a common ground/neutral bus. Did you have separate ground and neutral buses in your installation?

 

[Kliza]

ITS ALIVE! I used the Generac 6852 from this thread, and a reliance 30a power input box. The generac doesn't come with the plug. I had to order it from the web and inside the box were about 5 pieces of paper that said "If product is faulty, do not return to the store." So you'll be forced to work with generac if it comes broken. You may be able to purchase from a local generac dealer, I didn't try.
Anyway, the generac works great. I have most of my house hooked up to the 10 circuits with the exception of heat and AC. Going to get a small portable AC unit for a sleeping room, or look into the multi split AC thing. Our unit is 20a constant, so even with a soft starter it just wasn't worth taking most of the power.
The only time the truck threw a ground fault was when we used the manual switch on the box to go from generator to utility power and the generator was still connected. It threw the ground fault when the generac box cut it off, as intended.

I've already ordered the Generac 6852, Champion 25-Foot 30-Amp 250-Volt Generator Power Cord & Reliance PB30 30-Amp NEMA 3R Power Inlet Box. Besides wiring (I'm am expecting the electrician to provide this) any other parts I should be ordering?

 

[Gros Ventre]

The ground wire & the neutral wire are not "Common." They are bonded together but the NEC requires that to occur at only one point (frequently in the house panel, but some utilities require it to be in the outside meter panel). The Neutral Switching panel moves the neutral from being bonded to the ground in the House to the bonding inside the F-150 Powerboost system. This is needed because the Powerboost senses the normal in-house bonding as a ground and shuts down the generator. So, you must have 4 wires from the Powerboost to the house: 2 hot wires, 1 neutral, & 1 ground. If the Powerboost were not bonded ground to neutral then you would not need the neutral switching panel.

 

[Meterman]

Hello, I’m brand new to the forum. I just picked up my 2021 F-150 Lariat with the 7.2K Watt generator and am getting the “ground fault error” when running the built in test from the touch screen.

So after reading everything in this thread it was clear I have the same issue with the bonded neutral so I decided to disconnect the ground in the double gang box that my 240V receptacle connects to my 10AWG wiring that goes to the 30A circuit and everything worked perfectly.

I understand that it does not meet code but I'm only using it when there is a power outage.

The one thing that still does not make sense is if I run the TEST on the truck touch screen I still get the "Ground Fault Detected" error and it shuts off the generator. I just turned it back on and everything worked as it should.

Any thought on why? I would assume it's looking for a ground and it's disconnected.

My setup is the following:

I wired a 240v outlet into a 30am breaker on my panel with 2 120v hots, 1 neutral and a ground with 10AWG wire (now the ground is disconnected). I installed an interlock switch on my breaker panel so I can power the house with my truck during a power outage.

I was able to turn on every light in my home, 3 TV's, microwave, ceiling fans, bathroom fans, LG Mini split in office, refrigerator, furnace fan but gas heat, 3 computer, 2 network attached storage appliances, firewall, 24 Port Network Switch, 8 Port Network Switch, Security Cam Recorder, 2 Dish Hopper's, electric garage heater + more and I had plenty of power to spare.

The oven did trip the truck breaker and shut off the generator but it turned right back on.

 

[Hullguy]

Hello, I’m brand new to the forum. I just picked up my 2021 F-150 Lariat with the 7.2K Watt generator and am getting the “ground fault error” when running the built in test from the touch screen.

So after reading everything in this thread it was clear I have the same issue with the bonded neutral so I decided to disconnect the ground in the double gang box that my 240V receptacle connects to my 10AWG wiring that goes to the 30A circuit and everything worked perfectly.

I understand that it does not meet code but I'm only using it when there is a power outage.

The one thing that still does not make sense is if I run the TEST on the truck touch screen I still get the "Ground Fault Detected" error and it shuts off the generator. I just turned it back on and everything worked as it should.

Any thought on why? I would assume it's looking for a ground and it's disconnected.

My setup is the following:

I wired a 240v outlet into a 30am breaker on my panel with 2 120v hots, 1 neutral and a ground with 10AWG wire (now the ground is disconnected). I installed an interlock switch on my breaker panel so I can power the house with my truck during a power outage.

I was able to turn on every light in my home, 3 TV's, microwave, ceiling fans, bathroom fans, LG Mini split in office, refrigerator, furnace fan but gas heat, 3 computer, 2 network attached storage appliances, firewall, 24 Port Network Switch, 8 Port Network Switch, Security Cam Recorder, 2 Dish Hopper's, electric garage heater + more and I had plenty of power to spare.

The oven did trip the truck breaker and shut off the generator but it turned right back on.

You are putting yourself, your family and your house in danger by doing this!!!

 

[Meterman]

You are putting yourself, your family and your house in danger by doing this!!!

I see you are a retired electrician and would know way more than I ever will when it comes to electrical wiring so would you be kind enough to tell me what else is the risk or danger you are referring to.

I’ve read this thread and I understand it does not meet code and someone also said “the possible fail scenarios are safety related (i.e. chance for spark/fire or getting shocked) some are related to potential harmful voltage spikes that can damage connected appliances/equipment.

Some are very rare (lightning striking near generator) some or more possible (spilling liquid onto a power strip on the counter). Some are in between (older light switch that has tens of thousands of switch cycles shorting out).”

I didn’t buy this generator to power my home, it was just a added benefit.

I appreciate your concern and look forward to what you have to say.

 

[Hullguy]

I see you are a retired electrician and would know way more than I ever will when it comes to electrical wiring so would you be kind enough to tell me what else is the risk or danger you are referring to.

I’ve read this thread and I understand it does not meet code and someone also said “the possible fail scenarios are safety related (i.e. chance for spark/fire or getting shocked) some are related to potential harmful voltage spikes that can damage connected appliances/equipment.

Some are very rare (lightning striking near generator) some or more possible (spilling liquid onto a power strip on the counter). Some are in between (older light switch that has tens of thousands of switch cycles shorting out).”

I didn’t buy this generator to power my home, it was just a added benefit.

I appreciate your concern and look forward to what you have to say.

National Electrical Code is a minimum set of standards to protect lives equipment and property. By removing the ground at your plug you have taken the most important wire in your electrical system out of your system. The ground is their to stabilize and provide short circuit protection for your safety.

 

[kizzle_wizzle]

National Electrical Code is a minimum set of standards to protect lives equipment and property. By removing the ground at your plug you have taken the most important wire in your electrical system out of your system. The ground is their to stabilize and provide short circuit protection for your safety.

By taking the ground out at the plug, he hasn't removed the ground from the houses electrical system. It is still grounded via the ground rod that should be installed already at the meter. The truck never had a ground, and by taking it out at the plug, it still doesn't. I really don't see the safety issue here in the house. The only risk I could see is maybe right at the outlet on the house or at the outlet in the truck bed, but that is minimal if at all.

 

[jcaspar]

By taking the ground out at the plug, he hasn't removed the ground from the houses electrical system. It is still grounded via the ground rod that should be installed already at the meter. The truck never had a ground, and by taking the it out at the plug, it still doesn't. I really don't see the safety issue here in the house. The only risk I could see is maybe right at the outlet on the house or at the outlet in the truck bed, but that is minimal if at all.

I too am confused about the risk. The house is still fully protected with grounds intact, as is the plug which has a ground in it. The cord has a ground all the way to the plug on the chance it would be cut. I don't think the GFI in the truck needs a ground and the GFI's and ADCI's in the house should still work (have not tested this myself but will next time).

 

[Gros Ventre]

The issue you run into is that, when the ground wire between the house & truck is opened up, the truck frame is "grounded" via the path leading back thru the trucks neutral-ground bonding, then into the house and thence to ground thru the neutral bond ground in the house. If the truck were set up as a floating neutral the truck frame would be grounded thru the ground wire into the house and then to ground. As I see it this is far safer than relying on the circuitry passing from frame to neutral to house neutral to house ground...

 

[jcaspar]

The issue you run into is that, when the ground wire between the house & truck is opened up, the truck frame is "grounded" via the path leading back thru the trucks neutral-ground bonding, then into the house and thence to ground thru the neutral bond ground in the house. If the truck were set up as a floating neutral the truck frame would be grounded thru the ground wire into the house and then to ground. As I see it this is far safer than relying on the circuitry passing from frame to neutral to house neutral to house ground...

Thanks for the clarification. It what situation could this lead to a problem?

 

[Gros Ventre]

Thanks for the clarification. It what situation could this lead to a problem?

The issue is somewhat awkward to describe... The NEC Requires that there be only one Neutral-Ground bond in a circuit. Apparently, as I understand it, there can be some circulating currents set up with more than one Neutral-Ground bond, and they can actually get quite large... As I understand it then, opening up the ground wire from truck to house can then cause some problems. Not sure that I can give an answer better than that. The real fix is for Ford to put out a modification to shift the PowerBoost from a Bonded Neutral to a Floating Neutral. Then when you plug your 4 wire (2 hots, 1 neutral, & 1 ground) cable from truck to house, you're properly wired per the NEC (Note: this presumes you have an interlock between the generator breaker and the mainline breaker and that you're not using a cable with two male plugs.) Another note: The non-Powerboost F-150 with the 2.0 kW generator is wired as a floating neutral, so Ford knows how to do this.

 

[Hullguy]

Basic electrical theory. If you open the ground at the plug, truck, or panel, you have opened the grounding circuit and it will no longer work For short circuit protection! There is not a connection between the ground rod and the pickup truck if you remove the ground at the truck, plug or panel.

The ground wire is used to stabilize the neutral. I’ve seen some funky voltages when the neutral is not properly bonded to the ground! the ground is also designed in a short circuit occurrence to allow a large amount of current to flow instantaneously causing the thermal element in the breaker to heat up and trip.

 

[Gros Ventre]

RE: basic electrical theory... the neutral-grond bond in the truck means the neutral and ground are connected electrically. Thus if you get a ground in the truck its path is thru the neutral-ground bond and thus into the house via the neutral wire where that neutral-ground bond conducts it to earth... Is this a good idea? No. Can it be relied upon to safely conduct a ground/short circuit to earth? No. But at the end of the day, that's how the wires are connected.

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