Factory battery ongoing issues

[BluePB]

Have you replaced the battery with a non-Ford battery? First the truck is always on; Second if the battery is faulty, as I think mine was, then the software runs the risk of triggering some things we don't like; Third if you're going to try the "Master Reset," don't forget the small battery under the pax rear seat on a Powerboost. Best I can offer is that these problems seem to disappear when the battery is replaced with a non-Ford supplied battery. When my battery, at the four month point after delivery, began giving me some squirreley readings while on the road for Thanksgiving travels... I pulled into a convenient NAPA store and bought an off the shelf, catalog battery. I wasn't even knowledgeable enough of things to do anything other than drop it in and get back on the road. A couple days later after arriving home I gave it a "wetting down" charge. Not a peep since out of my electrical system. I know, its a guarantee item and Ford ought to make it right... But ya know, how many trips do you want to make to your Ford dealer for them to "make it right?"

So turns out I misread the work order and my 12V battery was NOT replaced. The WO said tested SOC "38% per FDRS to replace battery". Nevertheless, the service advisor stated battery tested good so Ford would not replace as warranty.

Turns out cure to get truck out of low power mode was to put it on the charger for 24 hours. Kind of obvious maybe, and my mistake for assuming that driving it for an hour would sufficiently charge the battery.

Any specific recommendations on an aftermarket battery? I usually buy Interstate, but they don't list an application. Optima lists a yellow-top for $360. Does it have to be an AGM?

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[Gros Ventre]

So turns out I misread the work order and my 12V battery was NOT replaced. The WO said tested SOC "38% per FDRS to replace battery". Nevertheless, the service advisor stated battery tested good so Ford would not replace as warranty.

Turns out cure to get truck out of low power mode was to put it on the charger for 24 hours. Kind of obvious maybe, and my mistake for assuming that driving it for an hour would sufficiently charge the battery.

Any specific recommendations on an aftermarket battery? I usually buy Interstate, but they don't list an application. Optima lists a yellow-top for $360. Does it have to be an AGM?

When my battery acted up, I replaced it on the road for Thanksgiving family dinner... So I dropped into a nearby NAPA dealer (I'm partial to NAPA) and just took their off-the-shelf, catalog battery (an AGM and had to buy an AGM battery charger). Didn't turn in the OEM battery and took it back to my dealer... well it tested good. But ya know, getting battery warnings while you're driving down the road at 65MPH just doesn't pass the common sense test. I had a handheld voltmeter so I pulled over after the first three warnings and checked system voltage... It was fine for engine on. That NAPA battery is now 2 1/2 years old with 3 Wyoming winters along the way (eg -20ºF) without a peep out of the electrical system. You shouldn't have to use a charger for routine operation. I think Ford is putting out defective batteries. My best thinking is just split for a non-Ford battery and be done with it. Like I said, I'm partial to NAPA. Also when you do that when you get home, do a "wetting down" charge. That's a low rate long term charge to ensure all active material is set up properly. Oh, recall about getting an AGM charger. My wetting down charge after Thanksgiving weekend took about 10 hours with an automatic, AGM charger. Oh yeah... I didn't know enough to do all the fancy rest stuff for the computer. I just dropped it in and got on down the road for "Turkey Day Dinners." Still not a peep... Oh, "does it have to be an AGM?" Well I believe so. The charging methodology varies somewhat from AGM to Flooded Cell to Gel cell and Ford set up their software for an AGM type. I've simply had zero problems with the catalog, drop in I got from NAPA. Unless you have some significant electrical system mods, I'd just go get that drop in for now.

 

[scott011422]

So turns out I misread the work order and my 12V battery was NOT replaced. The WO said tested SOC "38% per FDRS to replace battery". Nevertheless, the service advisor stated battery tested good so Ford would not replace as warranty.

Turns out cure to get truck out of low power mode was to put it on the charger for 24 hours. Kind of obvious maybe, and my mistake for assuming that driving it for an hour would sufficiently charge the battery.

Any specific recommendations on an aftermarket battery? I usually buy Interstate, but they don't list an application. Optima lists a yellow-top for $360. Does it have to be an AGM?

Interstate is a great battery too. Usually all I run. What are you looking for? Im driving a 22' PowerBoost and they had 3 or 4 choices in that battery............

 

[BluePB]

Interstate is a great battery too. Usually all I run. What are you looking for? Im driving a 22' PowerBoost and they had 3 or 4 choices in that battery............

Some battery mfg catalogs are not listing 2023's yet, probably because they have just not published an update yet, and who would ever have to replace a battery <1 year old? Some (such as the suggested NAPA) do show 2023 as a group 94 AGM, which is same as 2022. That makes the shopping a little easier, with choices from all of the usual aftermarket players ranging from $255 and up, including the Interstate "super premium" for $420.

This begs the question of course, of how Ford could f-up a 12V battery. Of all of the technology in the truck, the 12V battery is probably the most mature, proven, and simple thing except for maybe the wheels. I'm bringing back to the dealer one more time, since it is still throwing low voltage error codes after the last visit where the battery "tested good", to give them one more chance to stand behind it. Otherwise, if dropping a couple of bills for a new battery is the cure everyone says it is, then I'm off to the parts store.

 

[scott011422]

Some battery mfg catalogs are not listing 2023's yet, probably because they have just not published an update yet, and who would ever have to replace a battery <1 year old? Some (such as the suggested NAPA) do show 2023 as a group 94 AGM, which is same as 2022. That makes the shopping a little easier, with choices from all of the usual aftermarket players ranging from $255 and up, including the Interstate "super premium" for $420.

This begs the question of course, of how Ford could f-up a 12V battery. Of all of the technology in the truck, the 12V battery is probably the most mature, proven, and simple thing except for maybe the wheels. I'm bringing back to the dealer one more time, since it is still throwing low voltage error codes after the last visit where the battery "tested good", to give them one more chance to stand behind it. Otherwise, if dropping a couple of bills for a new battery is the cure everyone says it is, then I'm off to the parts store.

Sucks for sure. There were some bad batteries from trucks sitting waiting for parts early on, Now its mostly people that drive short trips. Obviously there is some tit-for-tat with exact driving conditions, But you need to drive 30m or more to charge the battery. And thats just breaking even from starting the truck. This is what is getting most people with battery issues.

 

[Calson]

Bottom-line the electrical demand of the truck's systems is too great for the capacity of the battery that Ford provides with its gas trucks. The XLT and lower trim levels get a H6 battery and the Limited and above get a H7 battery and the law enforcement vehicles get a H8 battery as standard equipment. So Ford knows that the electrical demands are very high for its trucks.

My last pickup had a V-8 diesel engine and was supplied with two H6 batteries to provide an adequate reserve of power to handle the glow plugs electrical demands. Ford should be providing two H6 batteries for the 2021-2024 trucks but instead uses a band-aid approach with its Battery Management System programming. It is not a real solution from Ford.

In the 1980's on business travel I carried an extension cord and would look for places to plug in and recharge my cell phone and my laptop. Now I need to do the same for road trips with my 2022 F-150 pickup. Truly Déjà vu all over again.

 

[Snakebitten]

You're just being silly now.

You'll never know if the latest battery charging strategy is sufficient to support your battery because you don't drive your truck. At least that's what you have stated.

No battery charging strategy, not even in vehicles from the 80's, will charge a battery in a vehicle that sits for months at a time.

 

[Gord0]

You're just being silly now.

You'll never know if the latest battery charging strategy is sufficient to support your battery because you don't drive your truck. At least that's what you have stated.

No battery charging strategy, not even in vehicles from the 80's, will charge a battery in a vehicle that sits for months at a time.

He doesn't want to fix his issue. I truly think he likes to complain about it.

 

[Hyins]

Just using FORScan to change TargetSOC to 120% and turn off SRC, all problems will be gone.

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/thr...ge-how-to-power-accessories.13862/post-452723

 

[EricR]

Sucks for sure. There were some bad batteries from trucks sitting waiting for parts early on, Now its mostly people that drive short trips. Obviously there is some tit-for-tat with exact driving conditions, But you need to drive 30m or more to charge the battery. And thats just breaking even from starting the truck. This is what is getting most people with battery issues.

Bottom-line the electrical demand of the truck's systems is too great for the capacity of the battery that Ford provides with its gas trucks. The XLT and lower trim levels get a H6 battery and the Limited and above get a H7 battery and the law enforcement vehicles get a H8 battery as standard equipment. So Ford knows that the electrical demands are very high for its trucks.
...

I hear what you guys are saying, but what's up with my truck?

2021 Job 1 Lariat 501A Powerboost SCrew with Short Bed.

Built early February 2021, then sat waiting for chip(s) into June, delivered in July.

Almost 3 years on the factory battery.

Several times it has been left 2-3 weeks when we were traveling.

It has sat well over a week in freezing temperatures.

The day-to-day norm is short trips, most well under 10 minutes. Then a few drives under 20 minutes, and then 0-2 trips a month of over 30 minutes.

We do go out on multiple trips with the travel trailer each spring and fall, which gives plenty of freeway miles.

It's never failed to start.
It's never been on a charger.

It just works - the way it should.
It just works - the way your trucks should.


Here's my theory:

1) I was blessed to receive a truck with a 12V battery that meets specification. Who knows what vendor(s) produce these batteries for Ford, but it seems too many of them aren't up to snuff. While I don't think the overall percentage of bad batteries is extremely high, it is obvious (to us on this forum anyway) to be at unacceptable levels. Ford should have better control over these vendors. I guess we'll see with the 2024 models.

2) The battery capacity is perfectly capable of meeting the electrical demand of these trucks - if the battery is up to specification.

3) The method Ford prescribes for dealers to test batteries is woefully outdated and doesn't reflect the electrical demand of these trucks. This leaves customers suffering with a multitude of problems/errors, and dealer service departments chasing symptoms and repeatedly replacing parts unnecessarily.


Your thoughts?

 

[scott011422]

I hear what you guys are saying, but what's up with my truck?

2021 Job 1 Lariat 501A Powerboost SCrew with Short Bed.

Built early February 2021, then sat waiting for chip(s) into June, delivered in July.

Almost 3 years on the factory battery.

Several times it has been left 2-3 weeks when we were traveling.

It has sat well over a week in freezing temperatures.

The day-to-day norm is short trips, most well under 10 minutes. Then a few drives under 20 minutes, and then 0-2 trips a month of over 30 minutes.

We do go out on multiple trips with the travel trailer each spring and fall, which gives plenty of freeway miles.

It's never failed to start.
It's never been on a charger.

It just works - the way it should.
It just works - the way your trucks should.


Here's my theory:

1) I was blessed to receive a truck with a 12V battery that meets specification. Who knows what vendor(s) produce these batteries for Ford, but it seems too many of them aren't up to snuff. While I don't think the overall percentage of bad batteries is extremely high, it is obvious (to us on this forum anyway) to be at unacceptable levels. Ford should have better control over these vendors. I guess we'll see with the 2024 models.

2) The battery capacity is perfectly capable of meeting the electrical demand of these trucks - if the battery is up to specification.

3) The method Ford prescribes for dealers to test batteries is woefully outdated and doesn't reflect the electrical demand of these trucks. This leaves customers suffering with a multitude of problems/errors, and dealer service departments chasing symptoms and repeatedly replacing parts unnecessarily.


Your thoughts?

Thats all really good! I've noticed on my 502A, that the truck can live around 12.0 volts without noticing anything odd driving the truck. Everything works as it should. I start getting FordPass notifications around 11.7v. I've never let it go any lower.

So my question to you is, Where does your voltage sit? When you get home from your last trip of the day, Pop you hood before you get out. Then, at least 3 hours later, Even the next morning is fine, Go out without your keyfob and check the battery voltage.

You could still be very low and just have a very hardy battery that is taking the abuse just fine.

 

[EricR]

Thats all really good! I've noticed on my 502A, that the truck can live around 12.0 volts without noticing anything odd driving the truck. Everything works as it should. I start getting FordPass notifications around 11.7v. I've never let it go any lower.

So my question to you is, Where does your voltage sit? When you get home from your last trip of the day, Pop you hood before you get out. Then, at least 3 hours later, Even the next morning is fine, Go out without your keyfob and check the battery voltage.

You could still be very low and just have a very hardy battery that is taking the abuse just fine.

So is a multi-meter across the + & - posts sufficient?

And of course, today we did a 2 hour highway drive (so she should be all changed up). Would your experience give any guidance of how long to wait until checking the morning voltage? Maybe a week?

 

[scott011422]

So is a multi-meter across the + & - posts sufficient?

And of course, today we did a 2 hour highway drive (so she should be all changed up). Would your experience give any guidance of how long to wait until checking the morning voltage? Maybe a week?

You could wait a week for sure, That would give you a better picture on your normal. But you could also check now too. You could still be in the low 12's.

 

[Gord0]

You could wait a week for sure, That would give you a better picture on your normal. But you could also check now too. You could still be in the low 12's.

He could be in the low 12's and still be perfectly fine for soc. I think too many people have in their head that they should be seeing 13+ volts at the battery resting. Not so with an AGM battery. Ford BMS targets 80% soc. The new update rolling out targets a higher soc

 

[scott011422]

He could be in the low 12's and still be perfectly fine for soc. I think too many people have in their head that they should be seeing 13+ volts at the battery resting. Not so with an AGM battery. Ford BMS targets 80% soc. The new update rolling out targets a higher soc

I don't think anyone is expecting 13v at rest. But low 12's isnt great either. No reason you should have the battery even below 12.5 in a new vehicle. Unless its a 21'+ Ford.

Not true, The new update keeps the 80% SOC, It just charges more aggressively.

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