rugedraw
Well-known member
1) The 10amp would be enough for most modules, but for the IPMA that takes 6 hours, the 20amp is a much better option if you want to avoid problems. Not worth saving $10-$15 by buying the 10amp version.2021 Job 1 F-150 Limited Powerboost.
I have started to immerse myself in FDRS to update my truck this summer. Ford seems to have decided that OTA’s to 4-year-old trucks are a low priority. Currently at Sync 4 Version 23167 Revision 926. Last OTA update was 6.1.0 on Jan. 3, 2025.
I have read most, if not all, of the 15,663 posts to the “ECU module programming guide using FDRS” since 2021 and I’ll probably ask a question that has been asked and answered, but the users of this forum have proven to be patient, forgiving, and expert.
I started at post #1.
Thanks for your help
- The Clore PL2320 Amp is the preferred model over the years. Is the difference between the 10 Amp and 20 Amp only charging speed? Will the 10 Amp maintain the battery sufficiently? No issue with purchasing the 20 Amp. Incidentally Home Depot sells the 20 Amp model for the same price as Amazon, with a more liberal return policy.
- I have a Ford Owners/Motorcraft login credential. The FJDS/FDRS license requires another login credential. Should I be concerned about the required company name I make up?
- Finally, for today, is there anyone near the New Hampshire Monadnock region that would lend me a Mongoose cable, and dare I ask, provide technical help, if needed. Otherwise, I’ll list my name on the Mongoose lending forum when I’m ready to update my truck.
2) No, you can put the company name as whatever you want. It could be a fake name.
3) Lmk if you want me to add you to the list. It would be 4-6 weeks before I can get to you based on the people you have ahead of you.
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