ECU module programming guide using FDRS

[Snakebitten]

The first thing to do is eliminate the potential of the low voltage SOC influenceing the FDRS session in any way.

Since you don't have a power supply, just shut the truck down for the night and leave the charger on the battery and let it bring the SOC well over the 80% threshold that the Ford BMS measures.

Or put another way, tomorrow you should be able to verify the SOC is higher than 80% before you start a fresh FDRS session. (do you have anything to read the PID with?)

Boot up the truck and FDRS. Clear any/all DTCs and then see if you get lucky with that GWM update. You might even reset the GWM with Forscan previous to attempting the update?

I personally give high priority to a happy GWM and TCU modules. They are the fundamental tandem for connectivity and communications.

Sponsored

 

[HammaMan]

I have updated all other modules with no problems and the usb portion of the update worked no problem… do you think the power would cause the module configuration to fail?

No, as someone who's found the limit for low voltage issues, 12v is more than sufficient. If you've done a bunch of updates, shut the truck up and let it go to sleep for 20 minutes and come back to it.

 

[poopy_pants]

you really need a unit with power supply mode, not charge/maintain.

I could not agree more. Some fail to realize a reading of 12V is actually showing the battery already 50% discharged. I fully charged "12V" battery is closer to 13V and you'll notice when the engine is running, the voltage is 14V. I power supply, especially one designed for flashing (has voltage control and sufficient amps) is the safest way to go.

 

[Kanuck]

I updated a friends truck yesterday. There was an APIM (6GB), TCU (140MEG) and GWM (124 MEG) that called for a USB to transfer the files. It was slow to down load and install onto the USB stick, which is normal. I used the USB-C port in the truck and it was notably faster to transfer the files. Updates went through without a hitch.

 

[roadPilot]

No, as someone who's found the limit for low voltage issues, 12v is more than sufficient. If you've done a bunch of updates, shut the truck up and let it go to sleep for 20 minutes and come back to it.

Dead wrong. Low SoC will most certainly cause certain updates to fail. Ford even updated some TSBs to advise the dealer techs about this.

 

[rugedraw]

I’m in the process of updating my truck via fdrs at the moment and I’ve had several modules that fail saying module configuration failed or something like that… specifically the gwm. I purchased the truck used and I have no idea if the previous owner made any forscan changes or not. Is there a way that I can go into forscan and get the as built data and reload it and do you think this is causing the problem?
FYI it is a 2021 raptor

Did you get this figured out?

 

[jpg2dvm]

Did you get this figured out?

I was working with it all night. I was concerned because after a couple updates multiple modules showed up as unresponsive, but I just updated the APIM and now all are green again. I have attempted to update the ACM multiple times. I don’t get an error message, but the update just doesn’t go away.

 

[Snakebitten]

The ACM update being persistent in the list has been documented ad nauseum. ?

 

[JohnTrigger]

The ACM not going away is “normal” for some.

Edit: Snakebitten beat me to it.

 

[m_bt54]

Same. I hitch my own shit up much faster.

it looks like these were the changes i made to get hitch assist working. should i back out all three before updating? or just the ipma?



APIM 7D0-01-03 xxxx xX*x XX-- Autohitch
I originally had 524D 25E5 3FC3 Changed * to F

ABS 760-03-01 xx*x -- Autohitch (use 760-03-01 xxx* -- for Tremor/Raptor)
| originally had DB20 66 Changed * to 3

IPMA 706-01-01 xxxx xx*x XX-- ModuleFeatureCg_AH I originally had 8A50 A215 AE4E. Changed * to 5


@Sapphire is this what you did to fix yours?

 

[rugedraw]

it looks like these were the changes i made to get hitch assist working. should i back out all three before updating? or just the ipma?



APIM 7D0-01-03 xxxx xX*x XX-- Autohitch
I originally had 524D 25E5 3FC3 Changed * to F

ABS 760-03-01 xx*x -- Autohitch (use 760-03-01 xxx* -- for Tremor/Raptor)
| originally had DB20 66 Changed * to 3

IPMA 706-01-01 xxxx xx*x XX-- ModuleFeatureCg_AH I originally had 8A50 A215 AE4E. Changed * to 5


@Sapphire is this what you did to fix yours?

No, we never made the changes to the ABS. It was never an issue to before the new IPMA update was released and even then, it seems to be only an issue with PowerBoost trucks.

What I am going to do to avoid problems and confusion is change the info I give people to enable BC 1.whatever to NOT include the IPMA change needed to enable hitch assist and if someone wants to enable that, they can do that on their own separately.

 

[HammaMan]

Dead wrong. Low SoC will most certainly cause certain updates to fail. Ford even updated some TSBs to advise the dealer techs about this.

Do share. I've gone out of my way to break these vehicles having been down into the 9.x volt range on updates. I just can't break the damn things.

OTAs fail on SOC levels for sure, the rest is related to voltage levels. SOC and voltage aren't synonymous.

 

[rugedraw]

Do share. I've gone out of my way to break these vehicles having been down into the 9.x volt range on updates. I just can't break the damn things.

OTAs fail on SOC levels for sure, the rest is related to voltage levels. SOC and voltage aren't synonymous.

The first time I updated my truck a few years ago, I updated my IPMA with a 10amp Noco Genius charger. Voltage got down to the the high 10's at one point, but it went through fine. I was still very green and learning about this stuff back then. Knowing what I know now, I would not recommend doing it that way seeing that the Clore 20amp PS for $100 is a great product and costs the same as my Noco 10amp charger did.

 

[ReverendQ]

The first time I updated my truck a few years ago, I updated my IPMA with a 10amp Noco Genius charger. Voltage got down to the the high 10's at one point, but it went through fine. I was still very green and learning about this stuff back then. Knowing what I know now, I would not recommend doing it that way seeing that the Clore 20amp PS for $100 is a great product and costs the same as my Noco 10amp charger did.

Anybody want my 10A NOCO, or my 5A?

 

[rugedraw]

Anybody want my 10A NOCO, or my 5A?

I've been meaning to sell mine on ebay.

Sponsored