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Snakebitten

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How are others powering their laptops during these updates? My laptop goes through the battery pretty quick. Can I have a cord running into the truck with the door not closed all the way (or window down)?

Or am I better off using the power outlet in the truck while key is on and battery maintainer is plugged in? I'd asume not since you don't want any extra accessories on during this process.
When I first started using FDRS nearly 2 years ago, my laptop wasn't a long running device on battery either.
I ran an extension cord through the rear window so that it didn't impede or impact all the various dances I had to go through with the driver's door. Worked out just fine over many many FDRS sessions.

Good luck!
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rugedraw

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How are others powering their laptops during these updates? My laptop goes through the battery pretty quick. Can I have a cord running into the truck with the door not closed all the way (or window down)?

Or am I better off using the power outlet in the truck while key is on and battery maintainer is plugged in? I'd asume not since you don't want any extra accessories on during this process.
Extension cord from my house to the laptop charger and kept the laptop on the charger the whole time. I needed to run an extension for the battery charger for the truck anyway, so I plugged both the battery and laptop chargers to the same extension. I updated my truck for 13 hours straight this way the first time around.
 

surveyor

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How are others powering their laptops during these updates? My laptop goes through the battery pretty quick. Can I have a cord running into the truck with the door not closed all the way (or window down)?

Or am I better off using the power outlet in the truck while key is on and battery maintainer is plugged in? I'd asume not since you don't want any extra accessories on during this process.
Once I fully charged the battery with the Clore, I switched it to power supply mode, and then plugged in my laptop into the AC outlet in the front. The available Windows laptop I have has a really old battery that doesn't hold very much charge. But it's enough for calibration, and as a backup, I've been carrying around a power bank that has a built in AC inverter.
 

fordtruckman2003

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Two extension cords one for battery charger one for laptop into passenger door and just closed door on it but not fully. Periodically checked on long running updates with laptop on top of piece of cardboard on top of the center console. Didn't want laptop hot spots to leave a mark but it never got hot. Learned eventually to ignore a few steps in the FDRS prompts. It was long two days for me with a storm that interrupted the first evening.
 

"Steve"

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what prompts did you ignore? i might try the disconnect and download inside trick next time for those long ones.
 

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Braeden

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Thank you all.

Last question before I dig into it.

I see the guide says to put your original as built back in before attempting to update through FDRS. It also mentions not to do a write all or load all. But instead only put the values back where you made changes.

Is this what everyone is doing? Before using FDRS you're putting your original as built values back in? Then after changes are made through FDRS (updates) you are applying your modified as built values back?
 

Braeden

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+1 to @Snakebitten for the cord in the back window and @IPAsAreA-OK for the google chrome remote desktop.

It is so damn hot here, I was sitting in the truck. Box fan inside here with me. Then I downloaded the remote desktop and watched from inside. Only thing now is somehow to turn the ignition off and on remotely lol. Then I don't need to run in and out clicking "ok" etc. There were only 4 or so modules to update. Literally took an hour for all.

PCM, ABS, HCM, DSP, and IPMA. Afterall I wouldn't expect a lot to be out there for a 23.. but you never know.
 

Big Dog Daddy

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It is so damn hot here, I was sitting in the truck. Box fan inside here with me. Then I downloaded the remote desktop and watched from inside. Only thing now is somehow to turn the ignition off and on remotely lol.
LOL It was 105 out last summer when Jesse remoted in to fix an issue with my IPC. I really could have used your box fan! ? ?
 

Missmy3/4ton

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Well folk looks like it semi updated. I can’t get the ACM - audio control update to apply.

Only question I have is can I run or is there any information out there on the items under the programmable features tab?
 

Big Dog Daddy

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Well folk looks like it semi updated. I can’t get the ACM - audio control update to apply.

Only question I have is can I run or is there any information out there on the items under the programmable features tab?
If I remember correctly, you shouldn't run the ACM unless you're adding or changing something. I don't exactly remember what was said previously.
 

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rugedraw

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Well folk looks like it semi updated. I can’t get the ACM - audio control update to apply.

Only question I have is can I run or is there any information out there on the items under the programmable features tab?
That's only if you want to add the OEM style subwoofer. You can ignore that update if you are having trouble with it.
 

surveyor

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Just finished. Sharing my experience in case there's anyone out there super new to this, who might run into some of the same stuff.

Had 3 motivations for getting FDRS:
  1. Onboard scales were off by 300 or so lbs. Contacted dealer but didn't hear back, and wasn't looking forward to leaving the truck all day or overnight there again.
  2. Had bumper + upper molding reconditioned/painted. Body shop outsourced sensor alignment to a vendor who charged $495 (about the same price as a Mongoose cable on Prime Day). Vendor wasn't sure they could recalibrate onboard scales (they used an FDRS wrapper from Autel).
  3. Not excited about granting Forscan access to my truck.

Read the awesome guide, bought the Clore, charged the battery, logged in. Saw 2 IPMA and 1 PSCM DTC. Searched the forum, Googled. Sounded like I needed to apply updates, run IPMA alignment, run 360 camera alignment, run CCM radar alignment, and perform steering center find.

Updates went through fine. IPMA and 360 took me a few days to figure out. Made a bunch of mistakes:
  • Cancelled IPMA alignment right before calibrated started. Gave a message that I had to dump learned values, which was a little scary because I went from 3 DTCs to >10.
  • Didn't realize that before the last click on IPMA alignment, it actually already started calibrating. Started too far from the planned road, and when I got close to it and clicked ok, calibration completed almost immediately after.
  • Started IPMA and 360 camera alignment late in the day. 1st took, latter failed. Saw the warning about 500 lux minimum, so saved the retry for later.
Thanks to the tips from @Jesse-Infotainment, spent some time on Google Maps figuring out a fast onramp to a long 3-plus-lane road I could drive >40 MPH on. Also looked for a corporate parking lot that would have nicely painted lines. Went out today:
  • Started too early in the morning this time. Light gave good contract in one direction, less so the other. But IPMA alignment completed, and I figure I'll try BlueCruise, etc., and maybe rerun later if I have issues.
  • Gave myself too little room. Clicking the last IPMA alignment OK before driving, I now needed 1/2 mile or so, instead of <1/4 mile before.
Was able to address these and finally get IPMA and 360 camera alignments completed. Cleared + retested modules, everything went green except SASM. Followed the instructions for steering center find (which I assume doesn't require launching any FDRS modules), drove home, gave as little steering input as I could while staying safe. Cycle engine, ran self-test, SASM cleared.

So for now, modules are updated and green, no reverse brake assist error message. Will have to see if my IPMA alignment is good enough, and one day want to check if my CCM radar is vertically aligned (previous owner had dealer level truck, I had the same dealer un-level it, no clue if they vertically aligned it either time). If I have to rerun IPMA alignment, I think next time, I won't clear learned values, but will instead of just rerun alignment. Someone let me know if that's a bad idea.

Oh, and found a relatively level parking lot to calibrate my onboard scales, which are still off, but at least not 300 lbs off.

Grateful for this forum and the guide @iceman77 and everyone else put together.
 

Missmy3/4ton

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If I remember correctly, you shouldn't run the ACM unless you're adding or changing something. I don't exactly remember what was said previously.
Sorry, I misspoke. I don’t need the update because I don’t have a woofer and am not adding one.
How are others powering their laptops during these updates? My laptop goes through the battery pretty quick. Can I have a cord running into the truck with the door not closed all the way (or window down)?

Or am I better off using the power outlet in the truck while key is on and battery maintainer is plugged in? I'd asume not since you don't want any extra accessories on during this process.
it was raining today and I ran the cord through the window/under the window vent with no issues
 

Missmy3/4ton

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Okay, maybe one of you gurus can help me.. I’m still on the same version of sync when I started updating this morning, Sync version 22177, Rev 473. I still don’t have the option for Amazon Alexa, so that leads me to believe I’m not past 3.2.1 yet. I have been checking all afternoon, but I haven’t hand anymore updates pop up on the tab. I am hoping to get it take care of tonight or tomorrow if fdrs is not down. I need to the mongoose back for the loaner thread

IP1FTFW1E56MFA48057
 

SALEEN961

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Is there a way to run the PCM PATS programming without a NASTF SDRM credential? I don't mind paying $100 every 2 years, but I'm not starting a business and getting all the insurance they require just to program a second PCM to my own vehicle.
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