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Bad 12V battery after 3 years

hatallica

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You just need to step over to the dark side of LFP for your auxiliary battery.
Given that my symptoms started with extended duration of <0°F temperatures, I am not sure that LFP is the solution. Not keen on being a pioneer, so waiting for more anecdotal results north of the Mason-Dixon line.
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Gros Ventre

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I am still readjusting my thinking, as old models just don't work. Looking at the shop manual and seeing phrases about driving for hours to recharge a cold battery just deepens my sadness.

If I have to routinely connect a charger, then do I have a plug-in hybrid?
Taking hours to recharge is not quite right. You'll see lead acid batteries recharge to about 98% in 15 minutes. That's what I see out here in the depths of a Wyoming winter. The problem you can run into is a series of 10 minute runs where the battery gets up to, say, 90%, then 90% of 90%, then 90% of 90% of 90%, etc. You get the idea. In my observation a fully warmed up engine and transmission, maybe 30-40 minutes will get you to 100%. Of course you then have to factor in Ford's programming of 80% as its full charge point. After replacing my OEM battery with a NAPA catalog one for a 2021 F-150, I've had zero problems without any programming changes.
 

Jmitchelltfo

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Given that my symptoms started with extended duration of <0°F temperatures, I am not sure that LFP is the solution. Not keen on being a pioneer, so waiting for more anecdotal results north of the Mason-Dixon line.
An AGM wired as a direct replacement of the OEM battery could help you too.....it just won't have as high of a resting voltage, but you will have more reserve capacity than stock.

There are plenty of powerboost owners that added 12 or 14 aH batteries with good success. You can probably find several on this forum or go over to the FB group to see their results.

I chose the LFP route due to the fact that I have a big stereo build that I'm close to finishing up and I wanted to ensure I had plenty of head room.
 

HammaMan

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I chose the LFP route due to the fact that I have a big stereo build that I'm close to finishing up and I wanted to ensure I had plenty of head room.
To properly connect a high wattage stereo to the PB, you want to tap the same post in the BCMC that the battery isolator connects to. Don't go straight to the battery. For the ground I went with dual 8ga grounds, one connects into the cab's back wall where the aux batt connects, the other runs through a hole drilled into the cab floor on the passenger side down to where the PPOB inverter grounds to the frame.

By connecting to that point in the BCMC you're in the center of the 12v bus, you have the main AGM on the same post on the bus bar, the DC/DC inverter and the aux batt all come together on that bus in the BCMC. My B+ wire to the amp is a 2 gauge.
 

CoolDuDe919

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So got the BT monitor installed, so just a little data from today. I did use forscan and update the charge% to 90% from 80% at lunch, so not much drive time for that to make any difference, but certainly not seeing the 13.xv you guys are seeing. But given the typical AGM voltage chart, where 12.5 to 12.75 is 80% to 90%, why would it normally get charged to 13.x by the computer/bcm/inverter if its only set to 80%?

Anyway easy to keep an eye on it now and obviously 12.71 isnt low, but open to anyone's thoughts!

1738198994000-y2.webp
 

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Snakebitten

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12.7 is "no worry" voltage for sure. Especially if it can hold it a few days parked, with maybe a couple of disturbances, like opening the door for something.

As for charging beyond 12.7 with the Asbuilt edit being at 80%, or 90%, for that matter.......
I've never been convinced that the Asbuilt value is a hard coded representation of the target SOC. I'm sure it IS representative of one of the parameters in play for the overall charging algorithm, but there's more going on. And if you are monitoring the low voltage PIDs, with the current BMS firmware of the Powerboost, the truck does in fact continue to provide voltage above 12.7V, and with some quantity of current (amps)

And then there's the fan speed hack......
You could be at 90% SOC and still get the DC/DC converter to charge the batteries at 14+Volts.
 

gnikdaor

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Ever since the last battery saver mode fit my truck threw, I have been keeping my fan speed no lower than 5, unless I am on a drive that is 30 minutes or longer. If it gets too hot, rather than drop the fan speed lower, like I used to, I just turn the temperature down.

So far, the battery saver mode gremlin hasn't reared its ugly head since, although it has only been a few weeks. And it has been quite cold around here. I'm knocking on wood now, since I probably just jinxed myself. :sadface:
 

M.R.F.O.R.D.

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This fan setting doesn't work on my 2024 PB. Anyone else notice that?

I also have the latest BCM update. Dealer did it a few weeks ago.
 

tsigwing

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All this talk about batteries made my go out and measure the under hood battery on my week old 2025 PB. Surprised it was 13.2V
 

Snakebitten

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13.2 on a sitting (asleep) F150 is fantastic.
 

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JohnMcClane

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What is the BT monitor people are using?

I was very pleased to return from the long trip and find my truck was able to be unlocked with the remote and start.

I’m starting to wonder if it’s a luck of the draw on the OEM battery.
 

tsigwing

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13.2 on a sitting (asleep) F150 is fantastic.
Seemed to good to be true, so I went out this morning and checked again. 12.43V, which seems to be right at the 80% SOC that Ford aims for. May be something I check periodically.
 

Gros Ventre

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Seemed to good to be true, so I went out this morning and checked again. 12.43V, which seems to be right at the 80% SOC that Ford aims for. May be something I check periodically.
I believe, if you check, 12.43 VDC was not a true resting voltage. Unless you triggered the hood to unlatch earlier and didn't have your key fob in your pocket, you were seeing lightly loaded voltage. Some truck modules had alerted as you approached the truck. The nominal resting voltage at 80% SOC is around 12.8VDC. That someone above saw 13.2VDC I find amazing as that is around the true 100% SOC at no load of any kind. The times I followed my battery's voltage (having unlatched the hood and leaving the fob far away) I saw 12.7 to 12.8 VDC. When I allowed the truck to alert I saw around 12.6VDC and that would slowly decline.
 

Snakebitten

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Seemed to good to be true, so I went out this morning and checked again. 12.43V, which seems to be right at the 80% SOC that Ford aims for. May be something I check periodically.
I was gonna say! ?

Somehow you were getting the resting voltage that it took me swapping LFP for AGM auxiliary, to get.

If you can leave your truck parked for a few days and still have 12.4x, you are in better shape than most.
 

hatallica

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What is the BT monitor people are using?
Since nobody else is jumping on, I see a lot of references to OBDLink (MX+ or LX). @Snakebitten should get a commission, since his posts compelled me to drop $$$ on the MX+ a few minutes ago.

My battery was so low this morning that the truck wouldn't even deploy the running boards. It seems like a good time to upgrade from my 20 year old OBD scanner and get some fancy metrics. The embarrassingly bad design of the charging system tempers my usual joy of getting a new toy tool.
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