PB Can't Jumpstart when your 12V Battery Goes Bad

[astrand1]

What failed? Just the 12v batt? I've started a PB with a completely zero'd out dead batt and it was fine. Didn't even harm the batts

I was gonna say the same. Mine went totally dead. Both 12v batts dead after flat towing my truck. Put a jump pack on and started right up. I think something else was causing it not to stay running.

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[Samson16]

But it made a spark, at least initially, since the ICE started for a very short while. Ford should not let the ICE turn off if the battery can’t hold a charge.


What do mean here?

A bad battery can act like a current sink hole dragging everything down with it until it is cut loose.
The engine runs initially after the current infusion from the jump, but the battery quickly drains it away and the engine dies again.
it’s possible the PB can run off the auxiliary battery and the dc/dc converter after a jump but the sensors might not allow it. For overlanding it would be nice to have emergency procedures worked out for worst case scenarios like this.

In the meantime if I were camping in it and opening doors with the keys in my pocket etc., I would consider placing the truck in generator mode. I’ve done it for over 8 hours with nothing plugged into it and used less than a gallon of gas. It turned on periodically and charged the dc bus along with the HVB.

 

[PaulGrun]

- using forscan to up the BMS charge startegy from 80% to 85% or 90% is well regarded

I've asked this question a number of times and so far I haven't found anybody on this forum who actually knows what this parameter affects.
So rather than say it's well-regarded (I appreciate your careful wording), I'd say that quite a few people have tried it, but without a real understanding of what it impacts. More often than not, changing this parameter in Forscan is often coupled with other simultaneous changes to other variables, usually replacing the battery.
It's my perception that among those on this forum who carefully track these things, there doesn't seem to be consensus that it improves things.[/QUOTE]

 

[PaulGrun]

This battery issue has been raised a number of times. What I have not seen is any explanation provided on why Ford sets the max charge to 80% in the first place. Surely 95% if not striving for 100% would better position the battery for longer term health and leave some wiggle room for the OTA updates many have had issue with due to low battery levels.

Nor have we seen an explanation of what this parameter actually controls. it's quite possible that it doesn't do exactly what the name suggests.

 

[astrand1]

I’ve set mine to 95% from 80. I have a scan gauge and keep an eye on 12v and I’ve seen much more 14v plus since changing it. Keep in mind you can always set your fan speed to at least 4 and that will force 14v.

 

[PB2021]

I believe it does. I use OBD Link and I can see the charge voltage and amperage higher when SOC is below 80% but as it reaches 80% or just above both voltage and charge amps come way down. If I’ve used my charger and have the battery topped up then drive I see very high SOC and operating voltage of only 12.7 with no amps going to battery till SOC comes down some.

 

[DANNER]

I was gonna say the same. Mine went totally dead. Both 12v batts dead after flat towing my truck.

What do you mean "Both 12v batts dead"? There's more than one?

Put a jump pack on and started right up. I think something else was causing it not to stay running.

My battery wasn't just dead, it couldn't hold a charge any longer. So you ware able to jump the PB even though the battery couldn't hold a charge?

 

[DANNER]

In the meantime if I were camping in it and opening doors with the keys in my pocket etc., I would consider placing the truck in generator mode. I’ve done it for over 8 hours with nothing plugged into it and used less than a gallon of gas. It turned on periodically and charged the dc bus along with the HVB.

Okay, yeah, that makes sense.

 

[Snakebitten]

In the meantime if I were camping in it and opening doors with the keys in my pocket etc., I would consider placing the truck in generator mode. I’ve done it for over 8 hours with nothing plugged into it and used less than a gallon of gas. It turned on periodically and charged the dc bus along with the HVB.

I got a notice yesterday morning that my truck was scheduled for an OTA update at 6pm.
(6.5.0, and I have my Sync Software Update schedule set to 6pm)

I had let my truck sit for 8 days. Ford's SOC algorithm declared the battery at 57%. Perhaps the lowest since I've owned the truck. (approaching the 8th quarter)
I have been lazy and not put the Noco on it while I did a long stretch of EV commuting.

So when I left work yesterday afternoon, instead of shutting the truck down, I just parked and left it in generator mode.
It's pretty much a self-trickle charger, except it's stronger than a Noco 5 or a Noco 10, IF you leave the FOB IN the truck. (I was getting 11amps at 14.4V while outside the truck)

So yeah, while camping, I definitely would include monitoring the low voltage health of the Powerboost as one of the many camping chores.

By the way, by 6pm I had shut the truck down at a Taco stand.
Afterwards, the update reported successfully installed.

Powerboosts are amazing machines. Complex, admittedly, but if you figure their quirks out, you can really enjoy them for everything they offer.

 

[JoeRedFly]

Curious, what impact does leaving the FOB in the truck have on Gen Mode? Seems like it should trickle charge even without the FOB.

 

[Snakebitten]

Curious, what impact does leaving the FOB in the truck have on Gen Mode? Seems like it should trickle charge even without the FOB.

We aren't talking about the High Voltage battery, but if you take your FOB out of the truck, the DC/DC converter (digital alternator) drops voltage to about 12.7V. So not much help charging up the AGM.

The battery management software is way more sophisticated, although flawed, than you might imagine.

 

[Samson16]

We aren't talking about the High Voltage battery, but if you take your FOB out of the truck, the DC/DC converter (digital alternator) drops voltage to about 12.7V. So not much help charging up the AGM.

The battery management software is way more sophisticated, although flawed, than you might imagine.

I wonder if you’re sleeping in the bed camper is that too far? The fob sensitivity doesn’t let me go far once I shut the door lol. Honk! Honk!

 

[mxwrk]

I got a notice yesterday morning that my truck was scheduled for an OTA update at 6pm.
(6.5.0, and I have my Sync Software Update schedule set to 6pm)

I had let my truck sit for 8 days. Ford's SOC algorithm declared the battery at 57%. Perhaps the lowest since I've owned the truck. (approaching the 8th quarter)
I have been lazy and not put the Noco on it while I did a long stretch of EV commuting.

So when I left work yesterday afternoon, instead of shutting the truck down, I just parked and left it in generator mode.
It's pretty much a self-trickle charger, except it's stronger than a Noco 5 or a Noco 10, IF you leave the FOB IN the truck. (I was getting 11amps at 14.4V while outside the truck)

So yeah, while camping, I definitely would include monitoring the low voltage health of the Powerboost as one of the many camping chores.

By the way, by 6pm I had shut the truck down at a Taco stand.
Afterwards, the update reported successfully installed.

Powerboosts are amazing machines. Complex, admittedly, but if you figure their quirks out, you can really enjoy them for everything they offer.

I usually like to research things as much as possible before purchasing but I'm feeling lazy, so I'll just ask you. Would the Noco Genius 2 be sufficient for maintaining the health of my PB battery? I have a short urban commute 4 days a week (8 miles each way), and then sometimes the truck sits for 2-3 days at a time in between. Was thinking of getting the Noco2 to just plug in overnight or on days off.

 

[DANNER]

We aren't talking about the High Voltage battery, but if you take your FOB out of the truck, the DC/DC converter (digital alternator) drops voltage to about 12.7V. So not much help charging up the AGM.

The battery management software is way more sophisticated, although flawed, than you might imagine.

I had no idea that the position of the key fob might change how the generator would charge the 12V battery.

Wouldn't 12.7V be enough to keep it healthy at least, f not charge it?

 

[DANNER]

I wonder if you’re sleeping in the bed camper is that too far? The fob sensitivity doesn’t let me go far once I shut the door lol. Honk! Honk!

If it's that sensitive then it's probably sensitive enough for someone to come along and open up the doors to the cab. And then I'd worry they'd just drive off with me in the bed ?

Maybe just bring two fobs, leave one in the cab and use the other to lock the doors.

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