B&O Unleashed finally fixed for $329?

[m_bt54]

Will do. Watching vids last night from Sounds Good I’m going to run it up under the vehicle as they do.

I did this and it was more secure and out of the way than I expected. It’s been about a year and has held up well.

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[Wmflyfisher]

I did this and it was more secure and out of the way than I expected. It’s been about a year and has held up well.

I see no issues either with doing it this way. I don’t off-road and the sounds good cables have another layer of protection with the casing. Beats having to cut a grommet and pulling those interior panels.

 

[Rock shooter]

Any recommendations for an installer in the Kansas City area for a JL Audio amp to my B&O 8 speaker system?

 

[rpold150]

I bought a wire kit with 20' 8ga power wire. Is 20' long enough to go from amp to battery? I haven't investigated routing through the firewall yet. Ground is 3', so I guess I'll be looking for a ground by the B&O amp on the rear passenger side.

 

[Abraham5G]

8

I bought a wire kit with 20' 8ga power wire. Is 20' long enough to go from amp to baqttery? I haven't investigated routing through the firewall yet. Ground is 3', so I guess I'll be looking for a ground by the B&O amp on the rear passenger side.

8 awg seems thin, how many watts is your amplifier?

I've seen some got to the rear driver side cab behind the insulation for ground.

 

[rpold150]

8

8 awg seems thin, how many watts is your amplifier?

I've seen some got to the rear driver side cab behind the insulation for ground.

It's the one mentioned by OP. 75w JL just to power the back two door speakers. Thanks.

 

[Abraham5G]

It's the one mentioned by OP. 75w JL just to power the back two door speakers. Thanks.

Oh yeah you'll be fine with 8 awg.

 

[Bob Violence]

I need a little clarification on something. My 21 has the 8-speaker B&O Non-Unleashed.

I have already removed the OEM sub and replaced it with a Kicker HS4610. Its signal is fed directly from the OEM sub high-level wires, and works good enough for for my liking without using any type of audio converter like an LC2i.

My questions ...

I have ordered the JL Audio amp referenced in this thread, along with the no-splice wiring harness from SG Stereo. I want to use the amp/harness to power my rear door speakers and nothing else.

1. Will this work? Since this thread is mostly about the UNLEASHED version, I want to make sure.

2. It appears the SG Stereo harness allows me access to power other speakers than just the rear doors. If this is true, I would just complete the connection at the harness to any speakers I don't want to power (front, sub, etc). Correct?

I've used the fader to focus the sound on the front left and front right, and they seem loud enough, so I see no need to amplify those, just the rear. Sliding the fader to the rear left and rear right reveals that the volume they put out is substantially lower than the fronts.

Including @SoundsGoodStereo in case they want to chime in.

 

[Jbcaindo]

I guess this is the new "trick" to f150 b&o systems, so I'm out of the loop.

But may I ask why?

Rear sound in a vehicle is meant to be a passive filler and not a definable location and very attenuated. Differential rear fill is the best case scenario, then mono rear fill then stereo.

The rear speakers in the broncos is also the same non-amplified scenario but their overall soundstage, or lack there-of, can really benefit from the unorthodox upgrade of rear sound fill.

I guess what I'm wondering is, why not invest the money in the front stage where all the meat and potatoes belong...?

 

[Abraham5G]

I need a little clarification on something. My 21 has the 8-speaker B&O Non-Unleashed.

I have already removed the OEM sub and replaced it with a Kicker HS4610. Its signal is fed directly from the OEM sub high-level wires, and works good enough for for my liking without using any type of audio converter like an LC2i.

My questions ...

I have ordered the JL Audio amp referenced in this thread, along with the no-splice wiring harness from SG Stereo. I want to use the amp/harness to power my rear door speakers and nothing else.

1. Will this work? Since this thread is mostly about the UNLEASHED version, I want to make sure.

2. It appears the SG Stereo harness allows me access to power other speakers than just the rear doors. If this is true, I would just complete the connection at the harness to any speakers I don't want to power (front, sub, etc). Correct?

I've used the fader to focus the sound on the front left and front right, and they seem loud enough, so I see no need to amplify those, just the rear. Sliding the fader to the rear left and rear right reveals that the volume they put out is substantially lower than the fronts.

Including @SoundsGoodStereo in case they want to chime in.

1. I believe that will not work. SGS harness disconnects your B&O sub, you'd be sending the sub's mono signal to two door speakers. The only way I know of amplifying the rear door speakers is to splice either at the doors or the head unit.

2. I don't think so. The SGS harness is for adding a subwoofer amplifier only. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

Could you please link the SGS harness you are referring to? The one I'm thinking of disconnects the B&O sub only.

 

[rpold150]

I guess this is the new "trick" to f150 b&o systems, so I'm out of the loop.

But may I ask why?

Rear sound in a vehicle is meant to be a passive filler and not a definable location and very attenuated. Differential rear fill is the best case scenario, then mono rear fill then stereo.

The rear speakers in the broncos is also the same non-amplified scenario but their overall soundstage, or lack there-of, can really benefit from the unorthodox upgrade of rear sound fill.

I guess what I'm wondering is, why not invest the money in the front stage where all the meat and potatoes belong...?

Maybe it's just a preference thing. For me, while I'm in my vehicle, I don't want to feel like I'm at a concert with the stage in front of me. I prefer to feel like the music is all around me, with no definable location. My taste in music is very unrefined and I wasn't a concert junkie, in fact I'm fine driving home in silence after a long day at the office. So maybe this preference is just me, but I'm hoping to boost the rear speakers a bit to fill the cab with sound, but not so much that it becomes directional from the rear.

 

[Bob Violence]

1. I believe that will not work. SGS harness disconnects your B&O sub, you'd be sending the sub's mono signal to two door speakers. The only way I know of amplifying the rear door speakers is to splice either at the doors or the head unit.

2. I don't think so. The SGS harness is for adding a subwoofer amplifier only. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

Could you please link the SGS harness you are referring to? The one I'm thinking of disconnects the B&O sub only.

Had a chance to do some more research. The no-splice harness I was referring to is sold by SG Stereo here:

https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...-2019-ford-vehicles-with-b-o-amplified-system

While this document isn't listed on their website (that I could find), I located it elsewhere. It is the instructions for the harness:

https://catalog.pac-audio.com/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=1777

Document states:

"If you are installing an aftermarket amplifier, and would like to leave any of the factory speakers connected to the factory amplifier, simply connect the speaker wires (color for color) between the male and female connectors. For example: If you want the rear speakers to be powered by the factory amplifier, simply connect the Green, Green / Black, Purple and Purple / Black wires from the male connector to the Green, Green / Black, Purple and Purple / Black wires from the female connector."

This leads me to believe it will do what I want. Parts have already been shipped, so I guess I'll find out soon eneough.

 

[Abraham5G]

Had a chance to do some more research. The no-splice harness I was referring to is sold by SG Stereo here:

https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...-2019-ford-vehicles-with-b-o-amplified-system

While this document isn't listed on their website (that I could find), I located it elsewhere. It is the instructions for the harness:

https://catalog.pac-audio.com/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=1777

Document states:

"If you are installing an aftermarket amplifier, and would like to leave any of the factory speakers connected to the factory amplifier, simply connect the speaker wires (color for color) between the male and female connectors. For example: If you want the rear speakers to be powered by the factory amplifier, simply connect the Green, Green / Black, Purple and Purple / Black wires from the male connector to the Green, Green / Black, Purple and Purple / Black wires from the female connector."

This leads me to believe it will do what I want. Parts have already been shipped, so I guess I'll find out soon eneough.

That's not the same SGS harness I was thinking of, please disregard my previous post.

 

[Wmflyfisher]

I made some adjustments today that I’m pretty pleased with so I thought I’d let everyone know.

Disconnected the center speaker. 5 minute job. Sounds significantly better not so center focused. More of what I’m used to in a vehicle.

Even though I don’t care for the app, I started using Apple Music again as people mentioned here. Switched all the streaming to lossless in the settings and I truly believe it does sound a lot better. So much that I think I’ll be fully satisfied with it once I get the sub installed. Can crank it all the way to 30 with no distortion. The midbass in the doors have good thump for what it is. My powered subs should fill everything in quite nicely. To get the true benefit make sure your device is connected via the USB cable (wired) and not Bluetooth.

I do keep getting this message though when I change songs. It pops up several times but eventually goes away and the music doesn’t seem to be affected. Anybody else see this?

 

[mdn14]

I made some adjustments today that I’m pretty pleased with so I thought I’d let everyone know.

Disconnected the center speaker. 5 minute job. Sounds significantly better not so center focused. More of what I’m used to in a vehicle.

Even though I don’t care for the app, I started using Apple Music again as people mentioned here. Switched all the streaming to lossless in the settings and I truly believe it does sound a lot better. So much that I think I’ll be fully satisfied with it once I get the sub installed. Can crank it all the way to 30 with no distortion. The midbass in the doors have good thump for what it is. My powered subs should fill everything in quite nicely. To get the true benefit make sure your device is connected via the USB cable (wired) and not Bluetooth.

I do keep getting this message though when I change songs. It pops up several times but eventually goes away and the music doesn’t seem to be affected. Anybody else see this?

I haven’t seen that. Are you still using CarPlay? Or the sync4 usb media source?

you can still use CarPlay but just leave it as a wired only connection. You may need to remove and reconnect your phone but just select the “no” option when your iPhone asks about wireless

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