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Kicker upgrade for b&o unleashed?

amschind

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So I put an RF 750W x5 Prime amp under the driver's seat and used the box from the Kicker sub upgrade. You REALLY need DSP to make the sub worthwhile, and the amp/sub that come with the Ford/Kicker amp set a new low standard for OEM audio. The sub is cranked up to 11 but the amp and the sub cannot handle it, so the amp gets burn-you hot while the sub distorts at any volume over 30%. Further, the stock audio has no DSP or crossover, so you're not getting any benefit in terms of better allocation of the very limited watts from the head unit amp. The plastic enclosure, however, is great in that it takes up exactly zero space (this matters to me, as my rear seats are folded up 99% of the time and I use the little bins beneath the folded section as well).

Bottom line, if I had it to do over, I plan on replacing the factory setup and install it myself. The RF 750x5 Prime amp isn't a world beater, but for folks who just want nice audio at reasonable volumes, it's indistinguishable from a setup that costs $000s. If you aren't after hearing-damage volume and just want better quality, Dynamat is a far better place to spend your savings.
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HammaMan

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So I put an RF 750W x5 Prime amp under the driver's seat and used the box from the Kicker sub upgrade. You REALLY need DSP to make the sub worthwhile, and the amp/sub that come with the Ford/Kicker amp set a new low standard for OEM audio. The sub is cranked up to 11 but the amp and the sub cannot handle it, so the amp gets burn-you hot while the sub distorts at any volume over 30%. Further, the stock audio has no DSP or crossover, so you're not getting any benefit in terms of better allocation of the very limited watts from the head unit amp. The plastic enclosure, however, is great in that it takes up exactly zero space (this matters to me, as my rear seats are folded up 99% of the time and I use the little bins beneath the folded section as well).

Bottom line, if I had it to do over, I plan on replacing the factory setup and install it myself. The RF 750x5 Prime amp isn't a world beater, but for folks who just want nice audio at reasonable volumes, it's indistinguishable from a setup that costs $000s. If you aren't after hearing-damage volume and just want better quality, Dynamat is a far better place to spend your savings.
Keep in mind you need at least the 8 channel B&O to be able to tap the digital feed for a clean signal. Otherwise you're at the mercy of whatever the factory head unit's amp spits out.

This is the method I suggest for tapping the A2B USB cable....
https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-fd31

It allows separate control of the vehicles 'chimes' as well as allowing you to tailor the head unit's high / mid / bass control if you wish to integrate it as shown below with custom EQ settings
Ford F-150 Kicker upgrade for b&o unleashed? 1676233453381
 

amschind

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My strategy was to splice in a high to low output converter into the 4 speaker outputs from the head unit. That box sits in the space behind the head unit, and sends those signals to the amp via RCA cables. From there, the amp itself has rudimentary but sufficient crossover for each of the channels, and pulls the sub signal out of the speaker signal. While I have (and overpaid for) the factory sub signal, I never could get it to work right.

I'd prefer a pure digital signal and a higher quality aftermarket DAC, but realistically for car audio you're not going to hear the difference between the two.
 

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Yes you will. Anytime you convert high to low and back to high again and use the sum of left and right to pull sub frequency it will sound awful. I've been a car and home audiophile for 50 years. All your accomplished is higher volume. Your still taking the subpar output from the factory amp and amplifying what ever the factory sound is. If the current head unit or factory amp has a crapy s/n and thd any additional amp is not going to clean that up.
But maybe their is people that don't pay much attention to detail that all they want is thumping loud.
I have the B&0 18 speaker system. Everything above 120hz sounds really good. I want to improve the low frequency. While at very low volume the system sounds great until I turn it up past 30%.
The sub shares the same amp circuit as all the other speakers sans the pillar and rear door that come from the amp in the head unit. The B&O runs out of power at very low settings. The bass becomes lose and booming. It wasn't designed to push.
Right now I'm looking into a couple inline a2b splitters that will allow me to pull the pre amp signal. From there I will run that signal into a processor that will compensate for the shitty environment. Then into a decent amp.
My days of breaking glass for the sake of massive SPL are over.

Edit.. I reread your comment. Did you say that the head unit outputs rca to an amp or did you mean that your plan is to take the rca from the high to low converter?
My situation is my intire signal path is canbus.
 

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lb18

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Did you install the sub under the back seat or behind the seat? I am trying to determine if it would fit behind the back seat. Thank you.
I installed it under the back seat. Not sure if it would fit behind it. I left the factory sub in place in case I sell the truck so it’s easy to reconnect it back up and move the kicker to another vehicle.
 

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Graygoose2021

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For those wanting even more bass, these will in and shipping in March. Comes with dual 10" L7T woofers. Run about $799.99

Pic of one in my truck for photos.

Ford F-150 Kicker upgrade for b&o unleashed? 20231110_130556_resized


Ford F-150 Kicker upgrade for b&o unleashed? 20230929_101355_resized


Ford F-150 Kicker upgrade for b&o unleashed? 20230929_101405_resized_1
 

Abraham5G

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For those wanting even more bass, these will in and shipping in March. Comes with dual 10" L7T woofers. Run about $799.99

Pic of one in my truck for photos.

20231110_130556_resized.jpg


20230929_101355_resized.webp


20230929_101405_resized_1.webp
This looks like a great deal at $799.

What amp would you suggest to power these? At what impedance? Could these be powered properly by the Kicker Key 500.1 at 1 ohm?

What is the box volume? Kicker calls for 1.25-1.75 cubic ft per sub, this looks like only a 2 cubic foot box?

Does this setup clear the two screws under the seat for those of us with the factory under seat storage bin that are left exposed when the bin is removed?

Edit: picture of the two screws I am referring to take from another forum member. Would the driver side sub hit the screws?

Ford F-150 Kicker upgrade for b&o unleashed? 20240214_203408
 
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Wmflyfisher

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This looks like a great deal at $799.

What amp would you suggest to power these? At what impedance? Could these be powered properly by the Kicker Key 500.1 at 1 ohm?

What is the box volume? Kicker calls for 1.25-1.75 cubic ft per sub, this looks like only a 2 cubic foot box?

Does this setup clear the two screws under the seat for those of us with the factory under seat storage bin that are left exposed when the bin is removed?

Edit: picture of the two screws I am referring to take from another forum member. Would the driver side sub hit the screws?

20240214_203408.jpg
That is my pic. I don’t think they would hit the screws as they’re almost flush with the top of the carpet. I ordered a Husky full mat to cover the screws and it fits over fine they do not protrude.
 

Abraham5G

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That is my pic. I don’t think they would hit the screws as they’re almost flush with the top of the carpet. I ordered a Husky full mat to cover the screws and it fits over fine they do not protrude.
Thanks for confirming!
 

Graygoose2021

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sorry been off for a week, yes the box will miss the post. I have one riding in my truck now. Woofers are high enough to give them ample room. The KEY5001 will work, but a 800.1 or 1200.1 would be optimal, 12001 would have good overhead.
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