2024 RCSB build

[MGF150]

Another update on the truck. As several of us have figured out, the tires on these lowered trucks make a big difference in ride quality and lack of shaking and vibration.
I mentioned above, how many times I hade changed the pinion angle on this truck trying to correct vibrations and shaking on the highway. The last time I messed with it, I set everything in the rear suspension back the way it belonged in the beginning. I installed new U bolts and nuts and retorqued to spec.
My next step was returning to Discount Tire to have the Nitto 420s rebalanced and the road force checked. I had one tire that was terrible, two were ok and one was good after moving the tires on the rim. I ordered a new Nitto 420 to replace the bad one and returned to Discount Tire for installation. The brand new tire was worse than the one that I was replacing. This shit was getting very frustrating!
I let the truck sit a week or two while I figured out what tires I wanted to buy to replace the Nittos.
Monday, I finally decided on the General GMAX AS-07. Discount Tire wanted me to go with the Michelin Defender, but I just did not like the looks. I did not want the Toyo because they make Nitto and I was done with them!
I returned to Discount Tire yesterday to have the generals mounted and road force balanced. To my surprise, without moving the tires on the rim at all, they had road force numbers like a passenger car. Once they were all mounted, I took a road trip. Finally my truck is as smooth as glass from 0mph to 107mph.
The moral of this story is, the tires make a huge difference and I will never buy another Toyo/Nitto product again! I have hundreds of hours and tons of money trying to correct very shitty tires that should have been replaced from day one.
Nitto road force numbers.

General road force numbers

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[EL5_Zero]

You're right, these tires have been the issue all along for me as well. I also believe the lowered suspension in these regular cabs amplify the wheel/tire vibration. When my brother and I switched wheel setups, his 2016 Crew cab with stock suspension rode smooth with my wheel setup on his truck at all speeds. My truck with his stock 18's rode smooth as well. I decided to stop chasing this issue and move on. I will eventually gift him my setup and go with a different wheel and tire setup. I'm definitely going to look into the tires you suggested.

 

[MGF150]

You're right, these tires have been the issue all along for me as well. I also believe the lowered suspension in these regular cabs amplify the wheel/tire vibration. When my brother and I switched wheel setups, his 2016 Crew cab with stock suspension rode smooth with my wheel setup on his truck at all speeds. My truck with his stock 18's rode smooth as well. I decided to stop chasing this issue and move on. I will eventually gift him my setup and go with a different wheel and tire setup. I'm definitely going to look into the tires you suggested.

What really pisses me off, now I need to go back to the stock fiberglass leaf springs and remove the steal springs I bought.

 

[MGF150]

I spent about 3 hours Sunday cleaning all the old wheel weight glue off the back of my wheels. The new tires are taller and I raised my coilers about a 1/4 inch for a little clearance.
I put about 200 miles on the truck this weekend and could not be happier with the tire setup. The truck rides and drives like a normal F150. The tires are smooth as glass from 0mph until the speed cutoff at about 112mph. The ride and handling is 10 times better.

 

[TopOMichXL]

I’m curious, what did you use to get the wheel weight adhesive off your wheels?
I had to remove adhesive of my summer wheels to have new tires installed, and it was all but impossible. Love your truck.

I’m really liking mine, so far, but attempted level at stock/rear height on a still stock truck.

 

[MGF150]

I’m curious, what did you use to get the wheel weight adhesive off your wheels?
I had to remove adhesive of my summer wheels to have new tires installed, and it was all but impossible. Love your truck.

I’m really liking mine, so far, but attempted level at stock/rear height on a still stock truck.

Thanks for the compliments, I used a rubber adhesive removing wheel to get started. Once the initial gunk was removed, and there was some sticky glue left, I used black Gorilla tape. Just stick the gorilla tape to the sticky junk, rub it on real good and remove slowly. It take a couple of times, but the tape pulls the crap off. The tape works on all kinds of sticky stuff as a removal tool!

Rubber wheels

 

[Ford Motor Company]

I spent about 3 hours Sunday cleaning all the old wheel weight glue off the back of my wheels. The new tires are taller and I raised my coilers about a 1/4 inch for a little clearance.
I put about 200 miles on the truck this weekend and could not be happier with the tire setup. The truck rides and drives like a normal F150. The tires are smooth as glass from 0mph until the speed cutoff at about 112mph. The ride and handling is 10 times better.

Your truck looks amazing! ? Thanks for sharing your build progression.

 

[1slo5oh]

You will also need the headlamp switch that incorporates the fog light switch. for some reason this is available at a very discounted price.
SW-8793. $37.71
now for the things I don’t know, i’m not sure if the 2024 model year has the wiring for the plug and play option like the 2023s.I don’t know if you have to access the BCM to enable the fog lamps.I guess the worst case scenario is that I have the fog lights installed but they won’t be operational. I will keep you informed if and when I get any more information.

I noticed on mine when I was doing the suspension that there were one or two open connectors on the passenger side by the bumper support. My guess is one or both are for the fog lights, I think the only thing we need is a harness that goes from the fogs to that but haven't found the part number for that one yet. I ordered everything else, guess I'll find out when everything shows up if the part numbers are correct lol.

 

[EL5_Zero]

I noticed on mine when I was doing the suspension that there were one or two open connectors on the passenger side by the bumper support. My guess is one or both are for the fog lights, I think the only thing we need is a harness that goes from the fogs to that but haven't found the part number for that one yet. I ordered everything else, guess I'll find out when everything shows up if the part numbers are correct lol.

Those prices don't look too bad to add the fog lights. I had seen a website earlier in the year that offer everything you need to add the fogs with a price of $900+. I decided to hold off until prices start dropping.

 

[1slo5oh]

Those prices don't look too bad to add the fog lights. I had seen a website earlier in the year that offer everything you need to add the fogs with a price of $900+. I decided to hold off until prices start dropping.

Yea the guy that runs that site is a good dude but you can definitely do better on price. Only thing I'm missing is that harness, and I'd bet a years salary it's not $400+ lol.

 

[Crfdude86]

Nice build! Im building basically the same truck. 24 carbonized grey, stage 2 Whipple, ridetech 3/5. I just had vossens installed but the poke bugs me so I just ordered some Forgestar F14‘s.

 

[VTR_16]

My truck had them, the bumpers were chrome that are now powder coated.
I am going to pull the grill again and change out the inner part for my XL grill. I like it better than the one that came in the painted grill. While I am there, if I see some part numbers on the harness or the lights I will post them.
You could also get the VIN on a truck with fog lights and get your dealer to look them up.

How are you going to change the inner part of the STX grille you have with the inner only part of the XL grille it came with? The XL grille is one piece. The STX grille you have is a 2 piece grille. The inner separates from the surround. The XL does not. You going to physically cut the XL grille center out?

 

[1slo5oh]

Well I did find out some more information.Ford show wiring for the front fog lamps #WPT-1080 BUT this is not for the fog lamp wiring that we are interested in.This part number is for short pigtails that are used to repair the connecter and wiring if you already have the fog lamps installed and it gets damaged.The front wiring loom is available and the part number is RL3Z-15K867-AK …..BUT I used a Vin # off a vehicle on the lot to use for searching for the part.I got this Vin a while ago and I can’t remember if it was off an XL trim or XLT and there is a possibility that the # number may not be correct for a XL. I was going to take a look on the lot for an XL trim but we have had so much snow this week Vin # are not accessible.I will look again when the vehicles have been cleared of snow.As far as I can tell I don’t think the two small connecters that were mentioned in a previous post are for the fog lamps.

Correct, the number they gave you is just the pigtails. The RL3Z-15K867-AK looks like it's for an XLT or a truck with front parking sensors, the XL doesn't have front parking sensors (at least mine doesn't). I'm fairly sure it's the correct part number just not the AK.

Also if you're trying to track down a vin of a similar truck just go on autotrader and search for the truck/options you want and each listing has the VIN. It's a lot easier then cruising lots for the specific truck/options you need.

I'll dig around and see if I can track down the harness and if I find one that I think is it I'll just order and find out for sure and report back.

 

[1slo5oh]

Ok, think I've got it... RL3Z-15K867-W.

Going to order it now, once I get it in and installed I'll confirm all part numbers so anyone else that wants to add fog lights doesn't have to play the guessing game.

 

[MGF150]

Lots of good information here for anyone who wants to add fog lamps to there 2024 XL .The Ford dealership is 3 minutes away and I had to go there any way so not really an inconvenience .What you said in regards to the front sensors not being on the XL was my concern as well.In regards to a similar topic,I am in the process of installing box lights on my 2024.I have the two box lights and the switch but yet again going by my research so far the wiring for the lights and switch are different than a 2023.On that year you could purchase two small wiring pigtails and plug them into empty connectors in the rear fenders.Then you had to access the BCM and change three parameters to allow the lamps to operate from the box lamp switch.On the 2024 these connectors are not there so l think the rear bumper wiring loom would have to be purchased as well to make this viable.As yet I don’t know if it is or not.If I make any headway on this I will post it here.

Hey guys why don't you start your own build thread or fog light thread and leave mine out.
I have fog lights!

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