Speakers-best bang for the buck

[F150Platinum22]

I'm over thinking it now. I have the 18 speaker unleashed. Doing the Kicker 47KSS6904 also. Just speakers for now. The front doors will use the Kicker crossover, I need to run wire up to the A-pillar? Then leave the factory harness unhooked?

I was thinking just 6x9 with low pass on the Kicker crossover. Nothing hooked up the high pass on kicker crossover. Use the Kicker tweeter in the A-pillar, stock wire harness hookup.
Is this correct for the 18 unleahed?

Thanks Kevin

Hi Kevin, how did your system turn out, I also have the 18 speaker unleashed, and have trouble finding someone that has done small upgrades without ripping out everything and adding all new amps, DSP's, ect. Just curious how well some aftermarket speakers would sound without the other upgrades, the system is not awful, but is definitely not an aftermarket system, but we all new that when we bought the truck.
Thanks in advance for your time and info.

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[rugedraw]

Hi Kevin, how did your system turn out, I also have the 18 speaker unleashed, and have trouble finding someone that has done small upgrades without ripping out everything and adding all new amps, DSP's, ect. Just curious how well some aftermarket speakers would sound without the other upgrades, the system is not awful, but is definitely not an aftermarket system, but we all new that when we bought the truck.
Thanks in advance for your time and info.

I'm in the process of getting creative with B&O Unleashed system. I am replacing the door speakers and the A-Pillar tweeters with aftermarket ones as well as adding a component tweeter to the rear doors and powering just these speakers with a separate 4-channel amp while keeping the rest of the stock sound system intact. Also adding an LC2i to prevent the bass roll-off on my subs. It'll be a few weeks before I get this done. I was planning on posting the results on this thread when I was done.

 

[F150Platinum22]

I'm in the process of getting creative with B&O Unleashed system. I am replacing the door speakers and the A-Pillar tweeters with aftermarket ones as well as adding a component tweeter to the rear doors and powering just these speakers with a separate 4-channel amp while keeping the rest of the stock sound system intact. Also adding an LC2i to prevent the bass roll-off on my subs. It'll be a few weeks before I get this done. I was planning on posting the results on this thread when I was done.

Thanks for the quick reply, so are you splicing in to the speaker wires from the factory DSP behind the rear seat to use the AC LC2i to feed an amp to power your front and rear speakers? I'm told by every shop and many others that say it cant be done, that you have to bypass all the factory stuff and start over, but I know its possible, just not plug n play.
I would be very interested in your findings and your process.
Thanks again for your time and quick response.

 

[rugedraw]

Thanks for the quick reply, so are you splicing in to the speaker wires from the factory DSP behind the rear seat to use the AC LC2i to feed an amp to power your front and rear speakers? I'm told by every shop and many others that say it cant be done, that you have to bypass all the factory stuff and start over, but I know its possible, just not plug n play.
I would be very interested in your findings and your process.
Thanks again for your time and quick response.

On the Unleashed systemThe front A pillar tweeter and the rear door speakers get their signal from the ACM; not the B&O amp. See attached wiring diagram. The harness from SoundsGoodStereo will get me the signal I need for the 4-channel amp. My concern is that the signal to the a-pillar tweeter only has high frequency range being sent to it, and I would need it to have mid-range to properly drive the 6.5" mid range speaker I am putting into the front doors. If it does have not mid-range, I would have to tap into the B&O amp to draw the signal and power the front components off of that signal and add a crossover to block out the mid-range signal to the a-pillar tweeters. I have not been able to find anyone that has done what I want to do, so I am just going to be my own guinea pig

 

[F150Platinum22]

On the Unleashed systemThe front A pillar tweeter and the rear door speakers get their signal from the ACM; not the B&O amp. See attached wiring diagram. The harness from SoundsGoodStereo will get me the signal I need for the 4-channel amp. My concern is that the signal to the a-pillar tweeter only has high frequency range being sent to it, and I would need it to have mid-range to properly drive the 6.5" mid range speaker I am putting into the front doors. If it does have not mid-range, I would have to tap into the B&O amp to draw the signal and power the front components off of that signal and add a crossover to block out the mid-range signal to the a-pillar tweeters. I have not been able to find anyone that has done what I want to do, so I am just going to be my own guinea pig

Its definitely a complex system, with some being fed from the factory amp, and some from the head unit, and I understand the front A pillar tweeters are an 8 ohm tweeter. I'll try to keep up with your progress.
Thanks

 

[m_bt54]

I'm in the process of getting creative with B&O Unleashed system. I am replacing the door speakers and the A-Pillar tweeters with aftermarket ones as well as adding a component tweeter to the rear doors and powering just these speakers with a separate 4-channel amp while keeping the rest of the stock sound system intact. Also adding an LC2i to prevent the bass roll-off on my subs. It'll be a few weeks before I get this done. I was planning on posting the results on this thread when I was done.

Really excited to follow this. I just received my Soundsgood behind the seat sub and sound deadening package today but I have a strong feeling I will be wanting to do a little bit more with the rest of my speakers once I have it all installed

 

[rugedraw]

Really excited to follow this. I just received my Soundsgood behind the seat sub and sound deadening package today but I have a strong feeling I will be wanting to do a little bit more with the rest of my speakers once I have it all installed

That's exactly what happened to me. Once I added the subs, they greatly overpower the stock B&O system. I have the gain on my amp at about 35% and the bass on the sync screen all the way down. The only way it sounds somewhat balanced is at full volume, but then the bass roll-off kicks in, it leaves me wanting more bass. However, at low to medium volume, it sounds too bassy.

The idea I have is to let the ACM power the aftermarket a-pillar tweeter, and then pull the signal from the B&O amp that powers the front door speaker and use that to provide the signal to the aftermarket amp to drive the replacement front door speakers. Ideally, the ACM is what I would like to power the tweeters to keep the full effect of how the B&O system is tuned for my truck. My only concern is that whatever wattage the ACM sends to the factory tweeter is not enough to drive the aftermarket tweeter, which is why I am inclined to push the front tweeter with the aftermarket amp. If the a-pillar tweeter is not being fed the same signal by the ACM as the signal from the DSP to the door speaker, then it has to somewhat compromise the surround sound effect. If it is the same signal being sent to both tweeters and door speakers with the exception of mid-range frequencies being excluded to the tweeter, then I can power both front component speakers from the amp and just use a crossover for the tweeters without messing with the way the system is tuned. My plan is to try to power the aftermarket tweeters with the ACM first, and if I am happy with the sound, I will leave it like that. If not, I will have to run some wires up to the a-pillar to include the tweeter on the aftermarket amp.

 

[m_bt54]

That's exactly what happened to me. Once I added the subs, they greatly overpower the stock B&O system. I have the gain on my amp at about 35% and the bass on the sync screen all the way down. The only way it sounds somewhat balanced is at full volume, but then the bass roll-off kicks in, it leaves me wanting more bass. However, at low to medium volume, it sounds too bassy.

The idea I have is to let the ACM power the aftermarket a-pillar tweeter, and then pull the signal from the B&O amp that powers the front door speaker and use that to provide the signal to the aftermarket amp to drive the replacement front door speakers. Ideally, the ACM is what I would like to power the tweeters to keep the full effect of how the B&O system is tuned for my truck. My only concern is that whatever wattage the ACM sends to the factory tweeter is not enough to drive the aftermarket tweeter, which is why I am inclined to push the front tweeter with the aftermarket amp. If the a-pillar tweeter is not being fed the same signal by the ACM as the signal from the DSP to the door speaker, then it has to somewhat compromise the surround sound effect. If it is the same signal being sent to both tweeters and door speakers with the exception of mid-range frequencies being excluded to the tweeter, then I can power both front component speakers from the amp and just use a crossover for the tweeters without messing with the way the system is tuned. My plan is to try to power the aftermarket tweeters with the ACM first, and if I am happy with the sound, I will leave it like that. If not, I will have to run some wires up to the a-pillar to include the tweeter on the aftermarket amp.

I’m no expert but it all makes sense to me. Looking forward to following how it goes. I’ll probably have (more than) a few questions for you as I only know enough about this type of thing to be dangerous.

 

[tilefordude]

how do you install dynamat?

 

[Graygoose2021]

have to pull interior or door panels. Sticks on, after you clean the door/interior panel

 

[tilefordude]

Hey there, especially if you have upgraded door speakers, you should 100% change the ACM to send a flat signal with Forscan.

I too have the 7 speaker system, and after changing entry

727-01-02 from 0901******** to 0900********

I get great balanced sound stage, especially with this speaker in the center dash - https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-PS95-8-Source-Driver/dp/B00Q3M9852.

I hear details I didnt hear before and actually like the system better now than the Unleashed in my parents powerboost (except for the bass). I havent even added a sub or replaced any door speakers.

This speaker doesn’t mount up to the holes. Is there another part that’s needed ?

 

[dmac]

This speaker doesn’t mount up to the holes. Is there another part that’s needed ?

So all I did was use the existing bolts to hold it down in place around the outside of the new speaker's metal mount. A little hacky, but since the weight of the speaker more or less holds it down and its so easy to pop the panel off, I left it as is. I havent noticed any rattles or movement in 4 months.

 

[tilefordude]

So all I did was use the existing bolts to hold it down in place around the outside of the new speaker's metal mount. A little hacky, but since the weight of the speaker more or less holds it down and its so easy to pop the panel off, I left it as is. I havent noticed any rattles or movement in 4 months.

Did you need washers ?

 

[dmac]

Did you need washers ?

Want yes, need not really. Just be careful not to tighten the screws so the dont bend at an angle.

 

[dmac]

So a little update after a long road trip with these -> the low volume performance is orders of magnitude better - both stopped and over rough roads at high speed vs with the stock speakers and no insulation. Much more comfortable to spend lots of time in the car.

Where I'm not satisfied is at high outputs -> it's just too much to ask for the fronts to produce enough low's at high volumes without an amp, sub, or good quality speakers in the rear. I'm going to do the same install to the rear speakers, but I think I'm going to need a sub, especially after listening to my buddy's B&O with the 8 speaker system. His sounds better at higher volumes, even though clarity is worse at lower volumes.

I just finished the rear doors. So far I have done the following to my 7 speaker system:
- Dynamat treatment on front and rear outside door skins and door panels
- SoundsGoodStereo Block off plates in front doors only
- Kicker DS 6x9 front and 6.5 rear speakers
- Dayton 3.5" 8 ohm center speaker with 14 mf Bass Blocker
- Forscan settings change for flat signal and to change center speaker to "tweeter only" (I additionally had to change the chime settings to "dash" to make all the beeps a reasonable volume see my earlier post)

Results:
- My ride is now SUPER quiet
- I get AWESOME detail across the whole frequency range at all speeds
- Compared back to back with the 8 speaker b&o and the unleashed... I have better or similar detail but less low end punch due to no amp nor sub
- Total spent $380 - $220 all speakers $125 block off plates, $35 butyl sound deadener/dynamat


Happy for now but I may add a kicker hs8 or hs10 sub in the future.

 

[Allted]

Oh man, I started with the sub, HS10, and I would really like to do exactly what you did with the rest. Getting an overall quieter ride seems like a great bonus as well. Thanks for keeping us posted.

 

[stew150]

I just finished the rear doors. So far I have done the following to my 7 speaker system:
- Dynamat treatment on front and rear outside door skins and door panels
- SoundsGoodStereo Block off plates in front doors only
- Kicker DS 6x9 front and 6.5 rear speakers
- Dayton 3.5" 8 ohm center speaker
- Forscan settings change for flat signal and to change center speaker to "tweeter only"

Results:
- My ride is now SUPER quiet
- I get AWESOME detail across the whole frequency range at all speeds
- Compared back to back with the 8 speaker b&o and the unleashed... I have better or similar detail but less low end punch due to no amp nor sub
- Total spent $380 - $220 all speakers $125 block off plates, $35 butyl sound deadener/dynamat


Happy for now but I may add a kicker hs8 or hs10 sub in the future.

dmac, So with the Kicker Ds speakers you feel the stock 25W head unit is enough to get proper sound from these? How is the bass and range compared to the stock?

 

[dmac]

dmac, So with the Kicker Ds speakers you feel the stock 25W head unit is enough to get proper sound from these? How is the bass and range compared to the stock?

Lows are better but nothings earth shattering. Mids and high are awesome though. The detail from good audio sources is great. I definitely think the DS is the way to go since they require the least power of all the Kicker speakers.

However, for the best lows off factory amp, I definitely recommend the Pioneer TS-D series. I have 2 sets of the TS-D65F in my Escape with no amp and a flat signal - that thing hits way harder that my truck does with less power.

 

[dmac]

Another update -
I went and sat in my parent's platinum with the stock B&O Unleashed and did a back to back with my system. The Unleashed has better bass coming from the rear (I don't have a sub...), and a higher sound stage (a few more speakers in the dash), but the detail of mine sounds orders of magnitude better.

As long as you don't need to feel bass in your chest, I much prefer mine.

With a sub, there would be no comparison.

 

[sbi]

So if I am happy with the front/center and just want better rear speakers (502A, unleashed B&O), what's the easiest, safest way to accomplish that? Will the Powerbass OE652 cut it? Will it require Forscan "intervention" as well, or can I just replace the speakers and that's it? Not looking to create a recording studio in my truck nor break any glass with basses.

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