TexasTruck
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Yes sir, thank you, that worked!Try for a 2020 f-150.
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Yes sir, thank you, that worked!Try for a 2020 f-150.
Was any modification required to make the 6x9s work? I wonder why crutchfield advises against them..I did 6.5's in the rear and 6 x 9 3 ways in the front (both Kicker DS).
I left the factory tweeters.
I used the metra harnesses and brackets that crutchfield recommends for 6x9 & 6.5 speakers in F-150's (you can do this by speccing out your truck and adding any 6x9 or 6.5 speaker on crutchfield.com to your cart).
I did re-use the foam lining around the front and back of the factory speakers, on the new speakers as well.
Additionally, I used the block off plates in the front from soundsgoodstereo.com for the 2021 f-150s for improved response and noise control.
None for me. They dropped right in with the brackets. No problem with windows, ect.Was any modification required to make the 6x9s work? I wonder why crutchfield advises against them..
Sorry I just found this email (contains speakers, brackets and adapters for all doors)Yes sir, thank you, that worked!
Man, above and beyond helping out, thank you!Sorry I just found this email (contains speakers, brackets and adapters for all doors)
where in Oregon are you?Looking to see if anyone has any factory tweeters off the 7-speaker system(non-BO) that is common on the XLT. I ordered up the 6x9 Powerbass speakers that came with tweeters, and replaced them, throwing the originals away. Getting too bright of a sound now, that's driving me nuts.
Or does anyone have any recommendations of replacement tweeters/modifications I could snag off of Amazon that wouldn't be as bright??
Overall the Powerbass(also have the 6.5" two-ways in the rear doors) setup is an upgrade for sure(over-bright front sound stage the exception(it seems if I have the treble and mids down at louder volumes that I also lose some of the additional profile)). The sound isn't flat like the factory system, but if I had to do it again, as the 6x9 is a component speaker, I'd probably opt to the go with the Kicker 3-ways. Not enough clarity and mid sounds coming out in the front door area. Sure, I'm a stickler, so what can I expect for $200-300 bucks, right? I'll keep on tweaking I'm sure! Thanks to the feedback from everyone.
- Forscan settings change for flat signal and to change center speaker to "tweeter only" (I additionally had to change the chime settings to "dash" to make all the beeps a reasonable volume see my earlier post)
Where in forscan do you change the center speaker to tweeter only?
Its in the hyperlink in that post.
Made your changes to the audio… huge difference from before. Stock speakers up front, aftermarket in the rear, no amp. I plan to do the fronts tomorrow.Its in the hyperlink in that post.
I’ve been reading through this thread and making a shopping list. I like the idea of an incremental upgrade, seeing how far I can get without an amp and sub first.I just finished the rear doors. So far I have done the following to my 7 speaker system:
- Dynamat treatment on front and rear outside door skins and door panels
- SoundsGoodStereo Block off plates in front doors only
- Kicker DS 6x9 front and 6.5 rear speakers
- Dayton 3.5" 8 ohm center speaker with 14 mf Bass Blocker
- Forscan settings change for flat signal and to change center speaker to "tweeter only" (I additionally had to change the chime settings to "dash" to make all the beeps a reasonable volume see my earlier post)
Results:
- My ride is now SUPER quiet
- I get AWESOME detail across the whole frequency range at all speeds
- Compared back to back with the 8 speaker b&o and the unleashed... I have better or similar detail but less low end punch due to no amp nor sub
- Total spent $380 - $220 all speakers $125 block off plates, $35 butyl sound deadener/dynamat
Happy for now but I may add a kicker hs8 or hs10 sub in the future.
I didn't actually add and amp (just a self-amped Kicker HS10). The initial directions for forscan changes and speaker replacement are pretty easy to do imo. I would maybe look at pioneer TSD 6x9 for better bass response if you don't want to have to add a sub. Mine were great without a sub but I prefer a warm thumpy sound for lower volumes so I eventually added one.I’ve been reading through this thread and making a shopping list. I like the idea of an incremental upgrade, seeing how far I can get without an amp and sub first.
It’s been a few months and I see you ended up adding an amp anyway. If you were to do it all again would you add the amp right away, or change how you configured the speaker only upgrade?
As far as install materials, what did you purchase besides the speakers themselves and the butyl mat? How much sound deadening material did you find you needed?
Help me understand the theory behind those door plates and why those would be superior than just putting some soft foam/foil sound insulation over the openingI didn't actually add and amp (just a self-amped Kicker HS10). The initial directions for forscan changes and speaker replacement are pretty easy to do imo. I would maybe look at pioneer TSD 6x9 for better bass response if you don't want to have to add a sub. Mine were great without a sub but I prefer a warm thumpy sound for lower volumes so I eventually added one.
I think 18-30 sq ft will be plenty depending on how ocd you are. The block off plates do a really good job if you have the cash. You will need a drill though for those.
For mid bass mainly. It effectively completes the enclosure box that the door tries to be for the speaker. Result in human terms is much more defined and crisp/clear bass. You can get probably 50% results with dynamat but the plates are a structural improvement to the box. Again, I did not do before and after with the same speakers, but on my 2015 with a similar door I did a speaker replacement only without adding the plates and I didnt get nearly as great of results.Help me understand the theory behind those door plates and why those would be superior than just putting some soft foam/foil sound insulation over the opening
From the input in this thread and others, mainly @Graygoose2021 (thank you sir), I installed the following. I didn't use "Dynomat", I used HushMat.Can someone share an Amazon or Crutchfield cart with the adapters, dyno-mat, and speakers needed for an STX trim truck. I’m really looking into replacing the speakers! Thanks
Thank you very much! What is the approximate cost if I install this myself?From the input in this thread and others, mainly @Graygoose2021 (thank you sir), I installed the following. I didn't use "Dynomat", I used HushMat.
All from Crutchfield, Amazon has the same for about the same cost.
Opt 1 Front 1x Kicker 47KSS6904 6"x9" (components) <--- I went with these.
Opt 2 Front 1x Kicker 47KSC6904 6"x9" (2-way)
Rear 1x Kicker 47KSC6504 6.5"
1x Metra 82-5606 Speaker Mounting Brackets
1x Metra 82-5605 Speaker Mounting Brackets
2x Metra 72-5602 Speaker Wiring Harness
Optional / owner discretion
1x HushMat 12850 Kit
1x Stinger Roadkill RKFR6 FAST Rings
1x Stinger Roadkill RKFR69 FAST Rings
I hope this helps.