Trying to purchase a connector

[Spiffy]

I broke a release tab on a connector. C242C. I located the connector number in alldata.
It says it's not available. I just need the housing.
There is a number under harness. Does that mean I need to buy the harness?
There is another connector right by it C242B that has a pigtail available. (Super expensive) the cases look identical.

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[roadPilot]

I would be surprised if it could be ordered separately.

 

[Spiffy]

In the screen shot where it just showes a harness number does that mean the harness needs replaced? That's a big harness $$$$.

I could try to plug in the 242b into the 242c plug and see if it fits then buy the pigtail version.
I know the connectors are supposed to be different so you don't get them mixed up but how the connects come off the harness it's impossible to mix up. Too tight.

 

[HammaMan]

The connector itself is likely available for a few $. You'd have to depin/repin which some can find difficult. You will not find ford telling you what the part number and manufacturer is. Also there's 'keying' on the connectors and you need to make sure it matches.

 

[antho]

The connector itself is likely available for a few $. You'd have to depin/repin which some can find difficult. You will not find ford telling you what the part number and manufacturer is. Also there's 'keying' on the connectors and you need to make sure it matches.

Exactly. Its likely a TE connectivity 20 cavity connector.

 

[JScaro]

Maybe something like this

https://www.digikey.com/en/products...kbbmx7p3AkUlvrlfnhoaAmMbEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Kanuck]

There are a bunch of You Tube videos on a temp fix with zip ties and other methods. Until you get the new part.

 

[Spiffy]

The connector holds tight. I have to get in with a pic to pull the broken tab back. For me not a problem.
The problem is I have to take it in for a issue with ipma calibration and dealer might have to swap it.
If they can't get it off they most likely will require a new connector and possibly not warranty it.

Pin/depin is no problem for me . I do it most days on pins much smaller on avionics navigation radios. Some connectors i build or modify have nearly 80 pins.
I just have to repair this connector.

 

[Spiffy]

Worst case . I found a ipma for 150.00 that has the connectors. Wrong ipma thoe.
The pig tale version from ford is over 100.00 and the keyway is slightly off center. I would have to dremel off the keyway.

That one from digikey looks close but it has two keyways and best I can tell is friction fit. Thanks for all the advice so far.

 

[roadPilot]

The connector itself is likely available for a few $.

Not from Ford I bet.

 

[HammaMan]

Not from Ford I bet.

Ford's pigtails start around $50 and go up from there.

 

[Spiffy]

Ha ha. Not a chance!
I removed the ipma
Here is the photo of the connector. It's the middle black one. I can get the left Grey in a pigtail version. 120.00 Both same size but the keyway at the top are in different locations. Not a big deal. I'm sure I can remove the key.
The ebay ipma with the connectors got sold.
There are 8 others, most from resellers. I have texted them to see if they by chance have the connector. Most times when stripping salvaged the wires just get cut.

 

[{tpc}]

Contact TE and see if they will send you a sample?

 

[JScaro]

Ha ha. Not a chance!
I removed the ipma
Here is the photo of the connector. It's the middle black one. I can get the left Grey in a pigtail version. 120.00 Both same size but the keyway at the top are in different locations. Not a big deal. I'm sure I can remove the key.
The ebay ipma with the connectors got sold.
There are 8 others, most from resellers. I have texted them to see if they by chance have the connector. Most times when stripping salvaged the wires just get cut.

Maybe this one?

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/2288276-1?qs=iR2ablhfrmFQ0tikRKv%2B8w==

 

[tmark]

The connector itself is likely available for a few $. You'd have to depin/repin which some can find difficult. You will not find ford telling you what the part number and manufacturer is. Also there's 'keying' on the connectors and you need to make sure it matches.

It has been a good while, but in my job we had a "pin pusher" tool that would release the locking tab on the pin and allow you to push it out. Easy Peasy. That was round pins only, and that style may be obsolete now.

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