Remote Oil System with Bypass Filter (Amsoil)

[calicocat]

I'm getting ready to change the oil and was looking at the Amsoil Remote Bypass filter setup. This uses a full flow 20 micron filter and a bypass 2 micron filter that just takes off about 10% of the oil and filters it to a much lower contaminate level.

I'm thinking the turbos will be much happier with cleaner oil. The rest of the engine might like it too!

For $300ish and some busted knuckles it seems like a good move.

Has anybody installed one of these systems or something similar?

Eric

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[Gros Ventre]

I haven't used the Amsoil setup. However, I've used a bypass filter for years. It is clearly a game changer in my observation. I have a 1µ bypass filter along with an 8µ main filter. These are from Cantonracingproducts.com.

 

[zx6roclet]

Amsoil makes lube not hard parts. +1 on canton

 

[powerboatr]

I use by pass filtration on my diesel powered f series...back in 02 and 06
Oil guard made them
But in modern diesels the by pass super filtration is built in to the big filters
Even on my isc engine.

On gas engines a good setup will help
But to get max oil life
You need to do oil analysis
If yiu change oil at 5k intervals..your imo wasting money
Amsoil used to say just change the fluid you lost in filter change..
Bad idea
Change it based on real data...thst can only be acquired by oil analysis.
The lab will Need baseline then samples based on hrs or miles
Then they recommend change based on impurities in the oil and or loss of additive effectiveness and other contaminations from metals, bearing wear metals etc
On my 7.3 and 6.0 I could get 15k miles on oil change using super filtration and analysis
Funny thing is cost of analysis now. Is as much as just changing oil and filter???
It's worth while in long haul or long hours use engines ...under heavy loads.

Our little engines imo benefit best fron synthetic oil, good filter and regular change intervals.

 

[Gord0]

I'll gladly "waste" some $ changing my oil and filter every 5k. Total cost with filter is about $35 for a fl500s and synthetic. My 2013 had 205,000 miles on it when it was totaled in a crash. Still on the original timing components as well. All the extra filtration in the world isn't going to help with the fuel dilution a DI engine will experience.

 

[Gros Ventre]

I'll gladly "waste" some $ changing my oil and filter every 5k. Total cost with filter is about $35 for a fl500s and synthetic. My 2013 had 205,000 miles on it when it was totaled in a crash. Still on the original timing components as well. All the extra filtration in the world isn't going to help with the fuel dilution a DI engine will experience.

The issue is oil has a service life, just like every other component in the engine. Would you change out an alternator or a fuel pump just based on gladly wasting the money? Further that oil analysis can tell you some things about what's going on inside the engine...

 

[Gord0]

When those other things fail it can be an expensive cost, but relative to the oil failing the engine it's a drop in the bucket. Alternator cost, 700. Does nothing but kill the battery and possibly leave me stranded for a bit. Oil failure, around 15,000 for new everything. Oil analysis, just about the same cost as changing my oil and worthless to me because I'm going to change it at 5k anyway. $700 in oil and filter will get me 100k miles changing the oil every 5k.

 

[Calson]

Fleet operators with thousands of vehicles that they want to maximize time on the road do not bother with such set ups. Manufacturers have improved engine components and tolerances and the motor oil manufacturers improved their low viscosity oils to meet the new SAE requirements starting in 2017.

Amsoil is selling snake oil which is normal for this company. Their diesel motor oil was double the price of most top tier diesel motor oils and lab testing showed it to have one of the poorest additive mixes that was on par with what Wal-Mart sells.

 

[Eighthtry]

I don't know how turbos are lubed, but if they use engine oil then the set up might make sense. I was going to install one on one of my early Suburbans but never got around to it. It went 320,000 carbureted miles anyway, using no oil between 10,000 mile oil changes and 5,000 mile Amsoil filter changes.

I have never used oil testing. I have been getting unbelievable results without it.

But that small particle filter could be a valuable use if the turbos are lubed with engine oil.

If you put one of those fabric high flow oiled air filters to gain an extra 75 hp, then it is an absolute necessity to use the bypass. You just need to keep that 2 micron filter changed, because that cold air filter will be sanding those cylinders. Those filters are best used in the track only applications. Woodward Avenue in Detroit on a nice summer night qualifies as a track application.

 

[Jmitchelltfo]

After doing quite a bit of reading and seeing that the biggest issue with ecoboost motors isn't filtration, it seems to be fuel dilution. No filters that I found can do anything [significant] to extend the life of oil that has fuel in it.

I've decided to just run inexpensive synthetic oil (Castrol Edge or Supertech) with a quality filter (FL500s, Fram xg1075, Purolator PBL14610) and change it every 4000-5000 miles.

Total cost: $45 or less depending on filter choice and I sleep like a baby with my extended warranty.

 

[FaaWrenchBndr]

After doing quite a bit of reading and seeing that the biggest issue with ecoboost motors isn't filtration, it seems to be fuel dilution. No filters that I found can do anything [significant] to extend the life of oil that has fuel in it.

I've decided to just run inexpensive synthetic oil (Castrol Edge or Supertech) with a quality filter (FL500s, Fram xg1075, Purolator PBL14610) and change it every 4000-5000 miles.

Total cost: $45 or less depending on filter choice and I sleep like a baby with my extended warranty.

I agree with your ideology. I use what I feel is the best oil available and I do run a Purolator boss filter. I changed it 5k or less.

Many of these good synthetic oils can go longer however, the filter won’t pull out the oil contamination from fuel dilution. And oil is cheap, engines aren’t.

 

[FaaWrenchBndr]

I'm getting ready to change the oil and was looking at the Amsoil Remote Bypass filter setup. This uses a full flow 20 micron filter and a bypass 2 micron filter that just takes off about 10% of the oil and filters it to a much lower contaminate level.

I'm thinking the turbos will be much happier with cleaner oil. The rest of the engine might like it too!

For $300ish and some busted knuckles it seems like a good move.

Has anybody installed one of these systems or something similar?

Eric

Many years ago I bought a 25’ motorhome. It was built on a Dodge chassis and had a 440. When I bought it, it had almost 80k on it. The previous owner put a Franz bypass oil filter on it. Oil was changed at 3000, it had always gotten in Valvoline. When I sold it, it had 242,000 miles on it used about a quart and 3000 miles. I was rather pleased with it, that motor was ran hard, considering the weight, the drag & 4.10 gears

Oil always looked pretty clean. It never got to the point where it looked black. I think the oil coming out of my power boost is darker at 5000 miles than that motorhome.

 

[Jmitchelltfo]

I agree with your ideology. I use what I feel is the best oil available and I do run a Purolator boss filter. I changed it 5k or less.

Many of these good synthetic oils can go longer however, the filter won’t pull out the oil contamination from fuel dilution. And oil is cheap, engines aren’t.

After seeing this test I decided to go with the Purolator Boss filter too. It's more expensive than the FL500s, but I'm not that concerned about and additional $10 every 5k miles.


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