Questions about 3/5 drop RCSB.

[timnohio]

Newbie here!

IHC Ride Quality 3/5 Kit will be here next week for my 2024 RCSB 4x2.
I've changed some suspension parts in the past, never lowered one. A friend of mine that has put 2 different lowering kits on his Mustang (different animal, I know) will be doing most of the work.

I got a quote from a local Ford dealer. Here is his email.
"Youd be around $1917 for labor, also if you have a regular cab truck, you may run into driveshaft clearance issues with the IHC kit"

That's question #1. Anyone have driveshaft clearance issues? And where would it rub if it did have issues?

Question #2. Is it wise to install caster and camber bolts in the lower control arm while it's off? If it is what is the best set?

Question #3. Torque pre-loaded suspension...
I've seen a few different ways people do it. We'll be working on the floor of a garage. So, I'm thinking the best way is to put 2 jack stands under rear end (easy peasy) but the front....jack stands will be on the frame, so jack up the lower control arm until it's slightly starts lifting truck? Or put a jack stand under lower control arm?
What is everyones method on this?

I think that is all of the questions this newbie has.
I appreciate it.

Sponsored

 

[Graygoose2021]

I havent added one, but tons of guys are doing the IHC kit, dont ever see mention of driveshaft issues. Id do the caster camber, just easier at install versus doing again.
Search Youtube, I've seen many detailed videos of the IHC installs online.

 

[timnohio]

I havent added one, but tons of guys are doing the IHC kit, dont ever see mention of driveshaft issues. Id do the caster camber, just easier at install versus doing again.
Search Youtube, I've seen many detailed videos of the IHC installs online.

I emailed IHC about a couple questions and they said with that kit that includes upper and lower control arms that the camber kit is not needed. But I was looking at what would be best to use. The entire bolt, washer and nut or just the nut and the plate that has the little nub that goes in an existing hole in the frame. I

 

[Graygoose2021]

Im not sure, so if they say you dont need them, it must align well as is.

 

[timnohio]

Im not sure, so if they say you dont need them, it must align well as is.

Yeah but I was thinking about getting the kit without the bolt to hopefully help align it easier and keep it aligned.
Opinion?

 

[1slo5oh]

The alignment kits aren't "required" but the guy doing your alignment will thank you. I went with ridetech over the ihc but I'm not sure what he would be referring to that it would be rubbing on. Maybe he's talking about a vibration if the pinion angle is off? Lowering the truck is definitely a lot more involved than your buddies mustang but overall not a bad job. It took me 2 days to knock out doing everything by myself in my driveway. Having someone to help out would have sped things up quite a bit. I started with the front end on ramps and jacked the rear as high as I could and supported under the frame so I had as much room for sag as possible. Having 2 jacks is a good idea, one supporting the rear and the other under the flange because once the leaf springs are off it'll want to roll. Leave everything loose, put the wheels back on, lower the rear, bounce on the bumper a couple times, jack up the rear again, support it under the rear not the frame so the weight is still on the suspension then torque everything. Front, same thing, swap everything over and leave the control arms loose, wheels back on lower it down, I drove back and forth a couple feet and just stabbed the brakes when going forward to settle it a bit, pulled up on ramps, jacked up the lower control arm and pulled the ramp out, torqued that side, lower it back on the ramp then did the same on the other side. Little time consuming but it worked for me, I have zero squeaks or noise. Not having a lift and having to work on your back is no fun but it wasn't terrible. Good luck ??

 

[timnohio]

The alignment kits aren't "required" but the guy doing your alignment will thank you. I went with ridetech over the ihc but I'm not sure what he would be referring to that it would be rubbing on. Maybe he's talking about a vibration if the pinion angle is off? Lowering the truck is definitely a lot more involved than your buddies mustang but overall not a bad job. It took me 2 days to knock out doing everything by myself in my driveway. Having someone to help out would have sped things up quite a bit. I started with the front end on ramps and jacked the rear as high as I could and supported under the frame so I had as much room for sag as possible. Having 2 jacks is a good idea, one supporting the rear and the other under the flange because once the leaf springs are off it'll want to roll. Leave everything loose, put the wheels back on, lower the rear, bounce on the bumper a couple times, jack up the rear again, support it under the rear not the frame so the weight is still on the suspension then torque everything. Front, same thing, swap everything over and leave the control arms loose, wheels back on lower it down, I drove back and forth a couple feet and just stabbed the brakes when going forward to settle it a bit, pulled up on ramps, jacked up the lower control arm and pulled the ramp out, torqued that side, lower it back on the ramp then did the same on the other side. Little time consuming but it worked for me, I have zero squeaks or noise. Not having a lift and having to work on your back is no fun but it wasn't terrible. Good luck ??

Thank you very much! That helps a lot. I'm trying to convince myself that when people get squeaks or rattles it's because they're not accurately torquing under load or greasing every contact points.
I'm overthinking it as I do with everything but I want it done right and paying someone $2000 to do it right and experiencing they didn't do it right....well...I'd rather tackle it myself. After watching every video I can find and watching them again I'm feeling confident we can do it.

Email from IHC about driveshaft rub;
"In some cases we do see the driveshaft rub the fuel tank crossmember and part of the cab when customers accelerate at moderate to heavy throttle. We recommend to notch both crossmember and cab if the driveshaft rubs."

I took a picture today of above driveshaft. Truck has FP lowering shackles is all.

I'm hoping that's less of a possibility with the 3/5 kits.
Heck, Champaign Ford puts IHC kits on their builds, that's why I went with IHC due to Ride Tech being over budget.

Thanks again for the detailed info. I appreciate it.

 

[timnohio]

@1slo5oh , which ones do you recommend?

 

[1slo5oh]

Thank you very much! That helps a lot. I'm trying to convince myself that when people get squeaks or rattles it's because they're not accurately torquing under load or greasing every contact points.
I'm overthinking it as I do with everything but I want it done right and paying someone $2000 to do it right and experiencing they didn't do it right....well...I'd rather tackle it myself. After watching every video I can find and watching them again I'm feeling confident we can do it.

Email from IHC about driveshaft rub;
"In some cases we do see the driveshaft rub the fuel tank crossmember and part of the cab when customers accelerate at moderate to heavy throttle. We recommend to notch both crossmember and cab if the driveshaft rubs."

I took a picture today of above driveshaft. Truck has FP lowering shackles is all.

I'm hoping that's less of a possibility with the 3/5 kits.
Heck, Champaign Ford puts IHC kits on their builds, that's why I went with IHC due to Ride Tech being over budget.

Thanks again for the detailed info. I appreciate it.

Interesting, hadn't heard about that. I'll have to get under mine and see how close it is. I haven't heard or felt any clunks or bangs and I'm not easy on my truck lol.

@1slo5oh , which ones do you recommend?

Both will do the job, since you haven't done the work yet I'd go with the bolt/washer kit. I bought just the washer kit because I could get away with doing the washers without jacking the truck up and going through all that extra work since I bought them after the first shop couldn't get the alignment within spec. But I ended up stopping into a second place to see if they could get it in spec and they did before they showed up in the mail so I haven't installed them yet. The guy did say it was a pain in the ass though and wished I had the cammed set up lol.

Also, in case you didn't notice you'll need 2 sets, it's 1 set per side regardless of style you go with.

 

[timnohio]

I think I'll go with the cheaper ones ? without bolts.

 

[Bossharp]

Make sure your steering wheel is straight AND you pick a very good alignment shop.. The dealership will be expensive but possibly not the best choice.

 

[timnohio]

Make sure your steering wheel is straight AND you pick a very good alignment shop.. The dealership will be expensive but possibly not the best choice.

I was wondering about taking it to a dealership, but a performance dealership, one that installs superchargers and lowering and lift kits. But I think I'm going to ask beefcake racing where they recommend.

 

[Jmet8]

Hi I have IHC 3/5 on mine with no caster bolts and 10,000 miles on it since lowerd no problems still hold the road straight tires look fine. I’ve had them rotated and balanced twice as I do them every 5000 miles. I haven’t noticed any rubbing Or drive line issues. Mine is a 22 xlt 5.0 3’73 4x4 with 22”. I have regressed the zerk fittings once. I’ve got the helper bags to. Works great if you’re going to do any truck stuff with it. 10 to 15 psi every day and 30 to 45 if you load the bed down. I’ve had 47 bags of mulch back there and 40 psi and bed didn’t squat at all. The kit should come with alinement specs for the shop just give it to the shop or print them out read all instructions you be fine. 3/5 drop on these trucks is not low. Pics when dune.

 

[ChazP89]

I put the ihc 3/5 kit on my 23 rcsb. I used a lift but your plan with the jacks sounds solid.

no driveshaft clearance issues to speak of.

one thing I will note about the kit, the balljoint nuts seemed awful soft on my kit where I stripped an upper and lower out while tightening with a hand ratchet. Not sure if it’s just the run my kit came from because I’ve never heard anyone else complain about it, but if it wasn’t a fluke or me suddenly getting super strength I figured you should know lol

Also, a helper bag kit might not be a bad idea while you are in there. 20 bags of mulch loaded gets mine bottoming out on bumps.

 

[timnohio]

Hi I have IHC 3/5 on mine with no caster bolts and 10,000 miles on it since lowerd no problems still hold the road straight tires look fine. I’ve had them rotated and balanced twice as I do them every 5000 miles. I haven’t noticed any rubbing Or drive line issues. Mine is a 22 xlt 5.0 3’73 4x4 with 22”. I have regressed the zerk fittings once. I’ve got the helper bags to. Works great if you’re going to do any truck stuff with it. 10 to 15 psi every day and 30 to 45 if you load the bed down. I’ve had 47 bags of mulch back there and 40 psi and bed didn’t squat at all. The kit should come with alinement specs for the shop just give it to the shop or print them out read all instructions you be fine. 3/5 drop on these trucks is not low. Pics when dune.

I appreciate it. I will have to add the helper bags later unfortunately due to me getting truck poor ?.
I watch videos and think, man, it'd be so much easier to add the air bags and maybe even traction bars while I have everything apart. But just not in budget and will have to be done in stages.
Thanks for the advice, very much appreciated.

Sponsored