Powerboost transmission drain and fill

[eharri3]

How much have people paid for this at dealers? I did nothing but drain and fills on my 09 Tundra starting at about 45k, going every 2 years until I traded it. Shifted like new when I let her go at 13 yrs, 113k.

I do not trust these 100-150k transmission services. Basically any preventable issues have already set in and done their damage by the time you touch it.

I am now at 2.5 yrs, 26k on my 2021 Powerboost with recently changed diff fluids, now looking to do a trans drain and fill if not at the next oil change, at the one after. Drop the pan, just replace the portion of the fluid that's there. Figured I'd ask here in case your configuration has unique challenges or complications. Used to be maybe a couple hundred on my Tundra but I assume it's more here.

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[HammaMan]

At your low mileage I'd just suck out what you can through the fill port. Quite a few solutions out there to undertake such procedure.

 

[Snakebitten]

I too would draw out every drop you can with a sufficient vacuum tool. Then let the fluid sit long enough for anything to settle that might be suspended.

If the fluid looks healthy, (clear, unburnt) then refill and be on your way. It's pretty close to a drop and fill, but without the mess and expense. Right?
And you can do it often enough that your supposed lifetime tranny just might actually last because of your efforts.

By the way, I'd not assume putting back in the same quantity that you removed is correct. At least not the first time. I'd want to confirm that the transmission shipped filled properly, since I'm messing with it anyway.

 

[FaaWrenchBndr]

How much have people paid for this at dealers? I did nothing but drain and fills on my 09 Tundra starting at about 45k, going every 2 years until I traded it. Shifted like new when I let her go at 13 yrs, 113k.

I do not trust these 100-150k transmission services. Basically any preventable issues have already set in and done their damage by the time you touch it.

I am now at 2.5 yrs, 26k on my 2021 Powerboost with recently changed diff fluids, now looking to do a trans drain and fill if not at the next oil change, at the one after. Drop the pan, just replace the portion of the fluid that's there. Figured I'd ask here in case your configuration has unique challenges or complications. Used to be maybe a couple hundred on my Tundra but I assume it's more here.

Many trans techs suggest a drain and fill every 30-50k. If you’re towing a trailer, think severe use, change toward the lower side.

Cost to do it yourself is about $120-150, fluid and a filter.
Cost at a shop will be $250-300

 

[Vater]

How much have people paid for this at dealers? I did nothing but drain and fills on my 09 Tundra starting at about 45k, going every 2 years until I traded it. Shifted like new when I let her go at 13 yrs, 113k.

I do not trust these 100-150k transmission services. Basically any preventable issues have already set in and done their damage by the time you touch it.

I am now at 2.5 yrs, 26k on my 2021 Powerboost with recently changed diff fluids, now looking to do a trans drain and fill if not at the next oil change, at the one after. Drop the pan, just replace the portion of the fluid that's there. Figured I'd ask here in case your configuration has unique challenges or complications. Used to be maybe a couple hundred on my Tundra but I assume it's more here.

I did a full Flush and Filter replacement at 30k only because I picked up the truck w/23K miles and didn't know exactly how the first owner drove it. Seems to be just fine but I wanted to be assured I got all the fluid out with a full flush. From here I will just do drain & filter the next go around in another 30K or so miles. My intention is to drop the axle and transfer case fluids at 50k, although my truck isn't sed for towing I just prefer to know what gear oil and when it was put in and so at 50K I will drop then.. Regards.

 

[Mosey]

Somewhere I read the transmission fluid is above the fill port if the engine is not running. I find that hard to believe. Could that be correct?

PS. I was “fortunate“ in that I discovered a cracked transmission pan at about 30k. I paid for a filter replacement (cost of part only) and the dealer did not charge labor for the 5 minutes it took to swap it.

 

[Johnny K]

At your low mileage I'd just suck out what you can through the fill port. Quite a few solutions out there to undertake such procedure.

That’s not the best approach, especially if there is debris from deteriorating clutches, bushings, and o-rings. At the least, the filter and the magnet need to be inspected. A new filter and seal isn’t too much more money or time to replace. Drop the pan.

 

[Johnny K]

Somewhere I read the transmission fluid is above the fill port if the engine is not running. I find that hard to believe. Could that be correct?

PS. I was “fortunate“ in that I discovered a cracked transmission pan at about 30k. I paid for a filter replacement (cost of part only) and the dealer did not charge labor for the 5 minutes it took to swap it.

It will pool to a higher level overnight, but I don’t know for sure that it is ever above the fill port. Always check at operating temperature and wear gloves.

 

[Johnny K]

I did a full Flush and Filter replacement at 30k only because I picked up the truck w/23K miles and didn't know exactly how the first owner drove it. Seems to be just fine but I wanted to be assured I got all the fluid out with a full flush. From here I will just do drain & filter the next go around in another 30K or so miles. My intention is to drop the axle and transfer case fluids at 50k, although my truck isn't sed for towing I just prefer to know what gear oil and when it was put in and so at 50K I will drop then.. Regards.

The transfer case is really easy. I wish that the front and rear differentials had drains.

 

[Vater]

The transfer case is really easy. I wish that the front and rear differentials had drains.

I picked up an oil vacuum that I’m going to use on the front diff so I don’t have to drop the cover. And then for the rear diff I think I’m actually going to change the cover out and put one on that’s got a drain plug in it since my truck runs around most the time in two high. But yes, I agree it would be easier if they put drain plugs on these factory. Diff covers would definitely be worth whatever extra charge they wanted as part of standard equipment.

 

[SilverSpur]

How much have people paid for this at dealers? I did nothing but drain and fills on my 09 Tundra starting at about 45k, going every 2 years until I traded it. Shifted like new when I let her go at 13 yrs, 113k.

I do not trust these 100-150k transmission services. Basically any preventable issues have already set in and done their damage by the time you touch it.

I am now at 2.5 yrs, 26k on my 2021 Powerboost with recently changed diff fluids, now looking to do a trans drain and fill if not at the next oil change, at the one after. Drop the pan, just replace the portion of the fluid that's there. Figured I'd ask here in case your configuration has unique challenges or complications. Used to be maybe a couple hundred on my Tundra but I assume it's more here.

On my lite use 2021, I plan on doing the Transmission flush at around 45,000.

 

[FaaWrenchBndr]

Somewhere I read the transmission fluid is above the fill port if the engine is not running. I find that hard to believe. Could that be correct?

This is actually correct. When the pump is not operating, a lot of the fluid returns to the pan. It’s just like the engine, it gravity drains to the pan.

 

[Mosey]

This is actually correct. When the pump is not operating, a lot of the fluid returns to the pan. It’s just like the engine, it gravity drains to the pan.

So, to maximize fluid removal, warm up the transmission run the truck, suck out the fluid, let it sit and drain, and remove the rest. Obviously measure what you get out and put in the same amount.

 

[Severdog]

I had my local dealer do the drain, replace filter, and refill. The total cost was <koff koff> $730. I might have saved myself a few bucks had I remembered to remove the cat protector skid plate beforehand, which got factored into labor costs.

I do pretty much everything else that I can on my truck, but I believe that this job needs a proper lift to do right and I wanted to get it done early to get any initial break-in debris out of there. Almost certainly overkill, but I have long-term plans for this truck.

Tech said that the fluid was still red on the drain.

 

[FaaWrenchBndr]

So, to maximize fluid removal, run the truck, suck out the fluid, let it sit and drain, and remove the rest. Obviously measure what you get out and put in the same amount.

I’m not really sure what you mean about run the truck and suck the fluid out. You don’t want to be removing fluid as the truck is running that would be very bad.

If the fluid level indicator is removed, the fluid is warm, and the engine is not running, it will certainly flow out of the port.

I would follow Ford’s procedure and remove the pan. Especially if this is the first service. Clean the magnets clean the filter strainer.

I would not just replace the exact same amount I took out. I would be damn sure to follow the procedure for getting the level correct. I would want to know the level is correct. I would not want to adjust it to where the last guy had it over or under serviced.

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