Powerboost engine oil?

[Gros Ventre]

I am more curious about oil FILTERS. I get the idea of using a finer filter, but that will necessarily increase resistance and all else held equal would reduce flow. Obviously this is a complex and dynamic circuit with a variable viscosity fluid, so it's not as simple as Pressure=flow*resistance.

I have resisted using a finer oil filter because as bad as tiny particles are, oil starvation is worse. Do we have any information on this?

As an aside, I Do Cars is a Missouri core tear-down shop owner who tears apart a huge variety of cores. The attention to oil changes is immediately apparent when viewing the interior of the engine. Varnish on the inside of your cylinder heads might just be cosmetic, but cam phasers have miniscule oil passages and are sensitive to it. I have no idea if aggressive oil changes help timing chain longevity: I cannot see how it would, but anything that we can do to preserve the Achilles' heel of OHC engines seems justified. It's all just money: the cost penalty for 3k vs 6k intervals and bog standard oil vs boutique voodoo oil goes away if you do it yourself.

In personal finance, the more you spend on appreciating assets and maintenance and the less you spend on depreciating assets and (REAL) interest, the easier your life will be when you are old.

The Canton Racing Products folks guarantee that their 8µ filters deliver the same full flow as any filter. I've personally used their products for 25 years on 4 vehicles with zero problems. My best was a 92 GMC Suburban that is now at 30 years lifetime and still at 3 to 4 thousand miles to a quart.

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[Scott_W]

5w-30 according to the manual. filter FL-500-S

I buy the Costco 5-30w full synthetic by the case. Can't beat the price. Due to Costcos relationshio to Mobile.... it is probably Mobile1. ps - My 2002 Malibu 3.1 had over 300,000 on it.

 

[Scott_W]

I will have to make a decision about this.
In the past, I've always used WIX filters and Castrol, in a heavier weight than factory recommendations. Haven't turned loose of a vehicle short of 300K miles and have never had internal problems.

I change oil and filter @ ~5K miles and at least put eyes on the air filter each time too.

But my newest engine is 21 yrs. old and have never had anything turbo charged. This is a whole new beast.

My inclination is to play it by the book on oil and filter, though from what I understand, I'll almost certainly change more frequently than specced.

Yep. As in piloting an aircraft..... ALWAYS - go by the book. My 2002 Malibu has 300,000 plus with synthetic every 5-6,000.

 

[Scott_W]

How about a Ford certified tech for 45 years. All at the same dealer. My father in law who has passed away. He broke me of that (your) habit.

Now you can't change oil too often and if you sleep better at night because of it, do it. But don't say you must in CAPS because you don't.

You can get a Ram 8 year unlimited mileage warranty and keep the engine under warranty doing the first oil change when the oil change indicator says to but not to exceed 10,000 miles. So if they are going to warranty an unlimited mile engine and not changing the oil at 1,000 miles will doom the engine, don't you think they'd want that oil out at 1,000 miles?

Like I said, if you feel the need to do it, great. It's not a MUST.

I'm fixing to get my oil changed on my new truck somewhere between 3,500 and 5,000 miles depending on my mood this spring. My GT500 will get the oil changed once a year.

Heavens to Betsy, just buy a magnetic drain pan oil plug. Mine "caught" a 1/4" long cotter pin at 280,000 miles. No one, even the parts dept., had sent that before. It is not part of the internals. Could have been a "plant" by a bad mechanic or it could have come out of the new oil going in. Luckily didn't hurt anything... heading beyond 300,000 now.... Praise the Lord for that ! My oil is changed every 5-6,000 miles - religiously. I left the initial oil (new car) in for about 5,000.

 

[imnuts]

Due to Costcos relationshio to Mobile.... it is probably Mobile1.

It's not from Mobile, it's through a 3rd party blender/producer. Last I knew it was Warren Distribution and they do this for many other parties. Still a great oil though.

 

[mistermoon]

My understanding of the oil life indicator is it does, in fact, take into account towing.

Late to the party, but I can confirm that it does. We did a 4400 mile trip towing our camper last September. I changed the oil right before we left and reset the oil monitor. At the end of the trip the oil life was down to around 10-15% remaining.


I changed it a few days after our return. I also stick pretty much to a 5,000-5,500 mile interval otherwise.

I've run about 4,000 miles since my last oil change which includes around 350 miles of towing and I'm seeing 66% remaining. Still going to change at 5,000 though.

 

[Scott_W]

Heavens to Betsy, just buy a magnetic drain pan oil plug. Mine "caught" a 1/4" long cotter pin at 280,000 miles. No one, even the parts dept., had sent that before. It is not part of the internals. Could have been a "plant" by a bad mechanic or it could have come out of the new oil going in. Luckily didn't hurt anything... heading beyond 300,000 now.... Praise the Lord for that ! My oil is changed every 5-6,000 miles - religiously. I left the initial oil (new car) in for about 5,000.

Check that again.... MUST is in relation to being a pilot. Whatever I DID do with my Malibu, it was done better than most. Praise the Lord.

 

[Scott_W]

It's not from Mobile, it's through a 3rd party blender/producer. Last I knew it was Warren Distribution and they do this for many other parties. Still a great oil though.

The Costco "Off brand" I buy is Full Synthetic dexos™ Gen 2 Motor Oil. Specifically:

"Premium full synthetic engine oils engineered using cutting-edge technology to meet the latest licensing requirements for General Motors and their global engine oil specification."

 

[dafish]

I'm sort of over posting long research heavy replies on this kind of thing, so I'm going to be relatively brief: I've spent way too much time on such issues on BITOG and relative industry forums, and am quite comfortable with what I run. That is:

The top two Fram's are as good as one can conveniently get. That's TG and XG. Ignore the posters screaming, they've done no actual research and couldn't explain a beta ratio if they had too. And yes, the cheap Frams are not a good idea.

A top end Wix or Purolater is acceptable next tier, and I sleep just fine using them if needed.

Ecoboosts are prone to LSPI, and Ford has a bad habit of spec'ing low viscosity oil, presumably in the pursuit of MPG. Thus:

* any clean oil is better than any old super oil.
* Make sure you're using API SN+ or better.
* Personally I use M1 Euro 0W-40 Euro in the 3.5 ecoboost. Should I see something similar in Penzoil platinum I would run it just as happily.
* If you don't mind the money Amsol's top grade and any Redline are simply superior oils.
* The filtration quality of the air filter you use is more important than the oil or oil filter you use. By far. Not much access to anything great for the stock size, but if you ever do a CAI consider something using a Donaldson filter. Excellent filtration with little restriction. Great filters.
* Don't idle the engine for extended periods.

Finally, understanding tribology has become quite complicated relative to just a few years ago. Once I could read an oil's formulation and understand it quite well. I no longer feel that way. ILSAc-6 oils and the chemisty needed to meet those spec are beyond we internet tribologists. Since API SP covers ILSAC-6 that's my present requirement. Then, since I want a bit more coverage for the heat levels our turbo's run at, I require a 40. Thus hello Mobile 1 euro. It used to be hard to get. Nowadays you can find it on any Walmart shelf. Happy days!

Luck to you,

-d

 

[Samson16]

Ecoboosts are prone to LSPI

Thanks for the post and the education. What is LSPI?
I’m running Motorcraft full synthetic 5w30(not the blend), and a Motorcraft filter. I change both at or before 5k.
How am I doing?

ps: word of the day Tribology

 

[TheGoatman]

I'm sort of over posting long research heavy replies on this kind of thing, so I'm going to be relatively brief: I've spent way too much time on such issues on BITOG and relative industry forums, and am quite comfortable with what I run. That is:

The top two Fram's are as good as one can conveniently get. That's TG and XG. Ignore the posters screaming, they've done no actual research and couldn't explain a beta ratio if they had too. And yes, the cheap Frams are not a good idea.

A top end Wix or Purolater is acceptable next tier, and I sleep just fine using them if needed.

Ecoboosts are prone to LSPI, and Ford has a bad habit of spec'ing low viscosity oil, presumably in the pursuit of MPG. Thus:

* any clean oil is better than any old super oil.
* Make sure you're using API SN+ or better.
* Personally I use M1 Euro 0W-40 Euro in the 3.5 ecoboost. Should I see something similar in Penzoil platinum I would run it just as happily.
* If you don't mind the money Amsol's top grade and any Redline are simply superior oils.
* The filtration quality of the air filter you use is more important than the oil or oil filter you use. By far. Not much access to anything great for the stock size, but if you ever do a CAI consider something using a Donaldson filter. Excellent filtration with little restriction. Great filters.
* Don't idle the engine for extended periods.

Finally, understanding tribology has become quite complicated relative to just a few years ago. Once I could read an oil's formulation and understand it quite well. I no longer feel that way. ILSAc-6 oils and the chemisty needed to meet those spec are beyond we internet tribologists. Since API SP covers ILSAC-6 that's my present requirement. Then, since I want a bit more coverage for the heat levels our turbo's run at, I require a 40. Thus hello Mobile 1 euro. It used to be hard to get. Nowadays you can find it on any Walmart shelf. Happy days!

Luck to you,

-d

I’ve been using m1 euro 0w40 in gm ls and genv LT motors for years. It’s a great oil.

I thought it would be excellent for turbo bearings but I wasn’t sure how it stacked up to gf6 oil for lspi. Also how it would work on a hybrid 3.5. Thoughts?

 

[notabot]

I’ve been using m1 euro 0w40 in gm ls and genv LT motors for years. It’s a great oil.

I thought it would be excellent for turbo bearings but I wasn’t sure how it stacked up to gf6 oil for lspi. Also how it would work on a hybrid 3.5. Thoughts?

Just curious, are you in a climate where the 0w actually comes into play? For me, I don't like using 0w but my VW 2.0T motors called for that spec. I ran the motor hard and it was trouble-free. FWIW, I'm not in a climate cold enough to bring the lower spec into play.

 

[Snakebitten]

Thanks for the post and the education. What is LSPI?

ps: word of the day Tribology

You Ecoboost newbie. ???
It's yet another term regarding engine knock. In this case knock at low rpms.
And of course the motor oil industry will jump on any term and market their oil as fighting LSPI.

II'm not saying that oil can't play a role in combating LSPI engine knock, but I personally believe the relentless pursuit for CAFE ($$$) is what has some of these modern direct injection engines operating on the edge of low speed knock.

Monitor the knock PID. ("KR" in Ford lingo)
You'll see your knock sensors complaining to the PCM in certain circumstances. Especially when operating at ridiculous low rpm (1200-1400) under moderate+ load.

The good news is Ford's dual-fueling and it's sophisticated engine management does a good job taming knock. But the driver can certainly reduce the burden on the engine management system by using better anti-knock fuel, as well as avoiding low rpm loading.

Again, the PID nerd gene is handy.

 

[TheGoatman]

Just curious, are you in a climate where the 0w actually comes into play? For me, I don't like using 0w but my VW 2.0T motors called for that spec. I ran the motor hard and it was trouble-free. FWIW, I'm not in a climate cold enough to bring the lower spec into play.

Just curious, are you in a climate where the 0w actually comes into play? For me, I don't like using 0w but my VW 2.0T motors called for that spec. I ran the motor hard and it was trouble-free. FWIW, I'm not in a climate cold enough to bring the lower spec into play.

I’m in zone 6
I was more looking at that 0w40 for the 40. It’s a really thin 40 so just over the 30 line. That’s why I like it, plus the additive pack is good.
I don’t tow anything heavy tho

it would help me remove an extra oil on the shelf of my garage as I do have a genv LT motor in the household.

 

[Samson16]

You Ecoboost newbie. ???
It's yet another term regarding engine knock. In this case knock at low rpms.
And of course the motor oil industry will jump on any term and market their oil as fighting LSPI.

II'm not saying that oil can't play a role in combating LSPI engine knock, but I personally believe the relentless pursuit for CAFE ($$$) is what has some of these modern direct injection engines operating on the edge of low speed knock.

Monitor the knock PID. ("KR" in Ford lingo)
You'll see your knock sensors complaining to the PCM in certain circumstances. Especially when operating at ridiculous low rpm (1200-1400) under moderate+ load.

The good news is Ford's dual-fueling and it's sophisticated engine management does a good job taming knock. But the driver can certainly reduce the burden on the engine management system by using better anti-knock fuel, as well as avoiding low rpm loading.

Again, the PID nerd gene is handy.

Thanks Snake! I run 93 for knock when the boost gets serious. I run a quality full synthetic for turbo heat.

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