Still waiting on my truck but just ordered the speaker bypass kit and fuel door pin. I had no idea there was a backup alarm to accompany the spaceship noises. Yikes. Thanks for making this an easy day #1 of ownership fix!
Be sure to grab a door pin too! If anyone is interested in a billet fuel door pin and was a previous customer, I will give you free shipping. Just PM me here or from the contact form on the website.
Not sure if you have a good lawyer, but you best keep things protected in trusts and LLCs with no comingling. You're playing in a realm that doesn't bode well.
Awesome! I would keep the door pin handy in the truck if that's the case. It wont do you any good sitting at home when it breaks!
can someone explain this one a little bit further . What are the pins used for ? . Does the tailgate connector fit in to the speaker plug ? Same pins ?Figured I'd put this into a new thread just for visibility. I know many have wanted to disable the pedestrian sounder (The device making the "groaning" fake engine sound as well as the backup alarm) on the PowerBoost. Full credit goes to PeteRit's post here, I just made some directions for anyone who would like to give it a try themselves.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The pedestrian sounder is obviously a safety device, and is there for a reason. Any modifications you do to your truck are entirely your own responsibility.
With that out of the way, here's the relatively simple process of bypassing the sounder. The best part of this workaround is it's barely 5 minutes to revert the change and put everything back as it was from the factory if you ever need to.
What's needed:
- Tailgate delete connector (Look in your glovebox for the bag of connectors, we're going to use one of them)
- 1x 25w 4ohm Resistor (This will work)
- 2x 1.5mm male connector pins (This kit should work. Has a lot more than you need, but is cheap enough and may come in handy later, I'm sure you could get just the pins somewhere else for cheaper if you wanted.)
- Some scrap 18-20AWG wire (Around 6-8" is all you should need)
- Some shrink tube or tape to seal things up
- A soldering iron
For those not feeling too adventurous, @WillB17 had the entrepreneurial spirit to start selling these. You can purchase one from him here.
Assemble the bypass device:
- Crimp/solder your two pins to some wire and insert them into the connector (These should snap into place when properly inserted and not want to come back out)
- Solder in the resistor to connect the two leads on your pins, here’s what mine looked like
- Clean everything up a bit by securing it all together, I used some shrink tube and will probably add some additional protection later to waterproof it better
Install the bypass device:
- Disconnect your sounder module and plug your resistor setup into the harness that came off of the module
- I’d recommend covering up the connector on the module to keep it clean for potential future use and securing your new connector somewhere so it’s not just dangling around
- You're all done - the sounder will now be completely eliminated and no codes/lights should be present at all. In the event you ever need to put things back, all you need to do is unplug your "bypass device" and plug the sounder back in. No factory wiring is modified at all.
