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astrand1

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Cost, but more importantly, there just is not a need for a lot of the things that can be done with it. With that said maybe once I have the truck I will see more things that I would like to try, but right now I would rather skip the $600 layout and keep it as vanilla as possible. I plan to do a lot of exterior modifications, but nothing that would require me to fiddle with the internal electronics of the truck. If I start having issues with the truck I do not some dealer telling me that since I altered the programming, I might be screwed, and out of warranty.

Paranoid? Possibly but safe at least for now.
I can understand that. But I think you might be confusing forscan with FDRS. Forscan is free. It’s an open source program. The only cost is a one time buy of a OBD2 device which can be had for well under $100. I just wanted to clarify that so that others don’t get confused. Just to go a step further if a person did want to use FDRS which is the dealer level software. The software is free to download. The license for it is $50 for 48 hours. So kinda spendy but can be worth it for some. Then you need a OBD tool for that. Again a one time cost. I got one from Amazon and it was about $100 or so.
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JerryLZ

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I used forscan to take mine away last night. I didn't think it was as aggravating until I actually got the truck. And the other sound it makes for drive is hideous as well, I thought it was over heating or something at first :LOL:
$59 invested and I got to change a lot of other stuff too of course
 

2drunk2

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Pretty happy with this product, rc version. Ordered sat, received Thurs (fast processing and shipping), and installed (easy) today. Works great and I like the option of turning it on and off on the fly. Like the option of sound on when doing kids stuff at the elementary school, hate the sound most everywhere else; especially at camp sites.

Thought about the forscan option but starting at 7k miles, I have had so many issues with my truck that I don't want to give the dealer any excuse to deny warranty work, or to have that additional fight. I even bought a unit to make some changes right before my issues began so it is still unused over a year, 14k miles later.
 

nolimitf150

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@WillB17 I'm a current full bypass user and I have to say I love the product. Quality design for sure! I'm thinking about upgrading to the RC version but I'm wondering if you've thought about designing an On/Off toggle switch we can mount on the dash somewhere?
 

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WillB17

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@WillB17 I'm a current full bypass user and I have to say I love the product. Quality design for sure! I'm thinking about upgrading to the RC version but I'm wondering if you've thought about designing an On/Off toggle switch we can mount on the dash somewhere?
Thank you sir! So we have not though about doing an on/off toggle since it would require wires to be routed into the cab (which is a huge pain) so what you could do is find a place to mount the remote switch. Maybe I can craft up a dash mount that Holds the remote control.
 
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nolimitf150

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Thank you sir! Sowe have not though about doing an on/off toggle since it would require wires to be routed into the cab (which is a huge pain) so what you could do is find a place to mount the remote switch. Maybe I can craft up a dash mount that Holds the remote control.
I think I hear the 3D printer firing up. Or I guess we could always do two sided tape. Not sure what the contour is like on the back of the remote. What about another two button (on and off) remote option that is more slim and rectangular that is designed to be mounted on the dash?
 

WillB17

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I think I hear the 3D printer firing up. Or I guess we could always do two sided tape. Not sure what the contour is like on the back of the remote. What about another two button (on and off) remote option that is more slim and rectangular that is designed to be mounted on the dash?
The current remote used today is completely flat on the back, making it a great candidate for double sided adhesive and is small enough to really mount anywhere
 

nolimitf150

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The current remote used today is completely flat on the back, making it a great candidate for double sided adhesive and is small enough to really mount anywhere
Oh that's perfect then! Thanks again for coming up with a solution for us PB owners!!
 

Wolverine7

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The current remote used today is completely flat on the back, making it a great candidate for double sided adhesive and is small enough to really mount anywhere
Yeah, i was thinking that along with one of the center console tray spots seemed like a handy place to hide the "button".
 

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ADam81

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Just ordered mine (rc version)- I can't wait to get it and install. Thanks!
 

delidave

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@WillB17 got my rc version the other day. thanks! can’t wait to install it. thanks for including the instructions. do you have an install video? I am always a fan of install videos…if not then i’ll opt for reading the instructions.
 

WillB17

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@WillB17 got my rc version the other day. thanks! can’t wait to install it. thanks for including the instructions. do you have an install video? I am always a fan of install videos…if not then i’ll opt for reading the instructions.
Sorry for the late reply! I have some youtubers working on some videos, but they still have not surfaced yet unfortunately. The instructions will have everything you need though!
 

Kodiak

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Sorry for the late reply! I have some youtubers working on some videos, but they still have not surfaced yet unfortunately. The instructions will have everything you need though!
Great! I'll be on the lookout for them and if you hear that have been posted to youtube, let us know!
 

DW2020

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Finally got around to installing the one with the remote control today. Smooth install and great instructions, the hardest part was figuring out where the speaker was hiding. Works great, looking forward to the silence when reversing with the trailer!

One area I diverged from the instructions was to put an inline fuse holder on the positive side (just a personal preference). Downside was it made the fishing the positive wire over to the battery a bit harder, so perhaps better to add it to the harness after the wire was run (vs on the bench).
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