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Yep I only deal with the Service Manager now and the GM doesn’t really care as I didn’t buy the truck from his dealership .
Trying to get Ford Canada to send us a 2022 or give us our monies back but they only say “we’ll call the dealer for you”
new to the forum and ford, but I’ve got lots of DIY experience on BMW, Mercedes, and Porsche.
those brands have long used much of the tech that’s “new” to the ford. Complex safety systems, and lots of programming. Those brands are notorious for being very picky about “voltage stability”. So when people are suggesting the battery, it’s the right track but it doesn’t necessarily encapsulate the real issue. When these systems experience a quick voltage spike or drop the sensors driving the systems can throw error codes. The first system throwing a code can then cause a cascade of additional system codes.
When you have a scenario like this with tons of electrical sensor driven codes that can’t be described and certainly aren’t all “broken” in those brands, you move to the electrical supply system as the culprit in diagnosis. So the big stuff you start to check includes:
the battery
the alternator
the regulator
AND the chassis ground straps/connections
saying it’s the battery is way over-simplifying the issue. It could easily be any one of the 4 categories above. Personal experience, I had an x5 With bad ground connections that did what you describe. I had a cayanne with a faulty regulator that did what you describe, and I had an x3 with a bad alternator that did what you describe.
i‘d be telling the tech to look at the voltage when the errors are thrown. I’ll bet you if you reset the error codes and watch, they will suddenly come back when you also see a spike or drop in voltage on the gauge. When these components fail, they will sometimes still work ok some of the time, and then have “moments” when they go wonky and throw the wrong voltage.
The Porsche was the easiest to see the direct correlation, it would be fine for an hour and then suddenly when the regulator would act up I could see the voltage start drifting between 12.7 and 14.2 on the gauge, just kind of bouncing all around suddenly. within a few minutes the dash would light up like a Christmas tree.
so I think the battery is the right direction, but I would be checking the 4 categories I listed, it really could be any of them. I’d be most suspicious of the regulator, which may be built into the alternator in the ford and all one unit. I’ve seen that be the issue many many times in the European DIY forums with problems just like yours and it’s been my own problem before twice Across different brands as well.
good luck!
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