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Hydraulic Jack?

FaaWrenchBndr

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That is true IF you use the frame lift points. I don't see the need to extend the suspension all the waty to change a tire.

When I jack up a vehicle, I do not jack on the frame. I place the jack right beside the wheel. Front it is on the A frame and rear, it is usually where the spring mounts to the dif. With an axle load rated at 3800 lbs., if loaded to the max, I am lifting under 2000 lbs. Just high enough to install the tire. If anything, I am transferring weight to the otherside of the vehicle.
that is a very unstable and unsafe place to check. Do as you care too, but it’s highly unrecommended in a very poor idea.
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FaaWrenchBndr

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Your biggest issue, in my opinion, is going to be finding something that has enough lift height to get the tire off the ground, especially in the rear. For capacity, I'd say 2 ton minimum, 3-4 ton to be safe. Even though you'd never lift the full weight of the truck, you don't know how surroundings may impact the process. Personally, I'm just sticking with the stock jack behind the seat.

Also, I'd recommend just getting a breaker bar, such as the collapsible one from Harbor Freight and a proper sized socket to go with it. It'll likely make changing the tire easier than the "universal" one and be easier to store in the truck
hey, very wonderful idea about stashing a breaker bar in the truck. I highly appreciate you mentioning that, I’m certainly going to go that route as well.
 
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Ajzride

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fordtruckman2003

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Harbor Freight jack and breaker bar with appropriate socket. I do like the look of that jack/stand combo that was posted though. Nice upgrade from what I use and probably easier to keep vertical.
 

Chappy133

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I carry a 1.5 ton bottle jack with an adjustable screw. A 4x4 block. 36 inch breaker bar with a 3 inch extention and 21mm socket. Lug nuts are torqued to 150 ftlbs...don't know if you can break a lug nut loose with a star wrench.
The above is the answer! After getting stranded on the side of the interstate in Missouri is what I did the same. Also got a torque wrench too. Along with replacing the POS bi-metal lug nuts with steel lug nuts.
 

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TarnishedCopper

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I carry a 1.5 ton bottle jack with an adjustable screw. A 4x4 block. 36 inch breaker bar with a 3 inch extention and 21mm socket. Lug nuts are torqued to 150 ftlbs...don't know if you can break a lug nut loose with a star wrench.
After reading your reply, I went out and was able to break lug nuts loose with a good 4-way wrench, but I do see your point. The tool from Hobo Freight would be better and store easier.
 

dochawk

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Jacking an A arm is incredibly risky
You think that's bad . . . one morning at our monthly donuts, one of the guys in my Cadillac club came in flabbergasted.

He had the owner's manual to his late 40s Cadillac in hand.

Connect the jack to the *rim* of the affected wheel to get it up, and stick a stand under the car!

The jack was something like three inches in diameter, with no plate to extend it.

And paved roads were still the exception at the time . . .


hey, very wonderful idea about stashing a breaker bar in the truck.
We spent a couple of *years* trying to get one troublesome lug nut off of my '72 Eldorado Convertible after I got it. Naturally, on the wheel with the tire leaking so fast I'd have to pump it up a second time to push it back into the garage after a half hour of working on it.

Efforts included my son in law, then in high school football shape, applying enough torque to flex a half inch 30" breaker bar!

It finally succumbed when I tried WD40 Rust Remover (not the regular stuff; that did nothing), came back two days later, and it was merely a badly stuck nut.

And then it turned out not to be the time, but that for reasons unknown to man, Cadillac engineers mounted the valve to the middle of the wheel, with an arm that came out to look like a normal one. And the gasket was leaking. And no longer made. The manager at the tire store took it as a personal mission to fashion something that Ould do the job . . .
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