FDRS - Battery tender recommendations

[roadPilot]

I have the Clore PL2320 as well and it works great.

Same here.

Sponsored

 

[JFollow]

Since I already have a 5A NoCo, I’m going to give this Mean Well LRS-350-12 a go. It’s adjustable from 10.2-13.5V and rated at 29A (348W). They have a fanless version that’s 17A (200W), but I didn’t want to take that risk or be maxing it out regularly.

https://trcelectronics.com/products/mean-well-lrs-350-12?hsa_acc=9805199880&hsa_ad=&hsa_cam=17330732280&hsa_grp=1261140729240401&hsa_kw=LRS-350-12&hsa_mt=e&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_src=o&hsa_tgt=kwd-78821840674923:loc-190&hsa_ver=3&msclkid=2fad7997af6212b8a26e1eb28432951d&utm_campaign=parts-meanwell-high&utm_content=LRS-350-12&utm_medium=ppc&utm_source=bing&utm_term=LRS-350-12

I’ll top off the battery with the NoCo, match the voltage of this thing to the no-load battery voltage, hook it up to the battery (+) and truck frame for (-) and away we go.

 

[HammaMan]

Since I already have a 5A NoCo, I’m going to give this Mean Well LRS-350-12 a go. It’s adjustable from 10.2-13.5V and rated at 29A (348W). They have a fanless version that’s 17A (200W), but I didn’t want to take that risk or be maxing it out regularly.

https://trcelectronics.com/products/mean-well-lrs-350-12?hsa_acc=9805199880&hsa_ad=&hsa_cam=17330732280&hsa_grp=1261140729240401&hsa_kw=LRS-350-12&hsa_mt=e&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_src=o&hsa_tgt=kwd-78821840674923:loc-190&hsa_ver=3&msclkid=2fad7997af6212b8a26e1eb28432951d&utm_campaign=parts-meanwell-high&utm_content=LRS-350-12&utm_medium=ppc&utm_source=bing&utm_term=LRS-350-12

I’ll top off the battery with the NoCo, match the voltage of this thing to the no-load battery voltage, hook it up to the battery (+) and truck frame for (-) and away we go.

Be very careful of such power supplies, when the key comes on you can backfeed it more voltage than it generates and flames follow. Make damn sure that it has safety means if backfed.

 

[v8440]

Or put a blocking diode of appropriate current rating in line with it and adjust output voltage to compensate for the forward voltage drop of the diode.

 

[VRFlyer]

VEVOR Smartcharger, around $79 buckaroos + Tax!

VEVOR Smart Battery Charger, 20-Amp, Lithium LiFePO4 Lead-Acid (AGM / Gel / SLA)

 

[JFollow]

Be very careful of such power supplies, when the key comes on you can backfeed it more voltage than it generates and flames follow. Make damn sure that it has safety means if backfed.

This is one reason I posted, see if there’s anything I’m missing. Thanks.

Genuinely curious, where would the backfeed come from on a non-hybrid truck?

 

[HammaMan]

This is one reason I posted, see if there’s anything I’m missing. Thanks.

Genuinely curious, where would the backfeed come from on a non-hybrid truck?

If you start the vehicle at any point. The hybrids will turn on their 'alternator' when in accessory.

Only takes 1 little mistake though so be sure.

 

[Je1279]

I'm with @HammaMan on this. You may say, "I'd never be stupid enough to to that". However, it only takes a minor lack of attention on one occasion for something like this to occur.

 

[JFollow]

Yea, agree, better safe than sorry. I’ll pull the starter fuse to make sure there’s no alternator movement.

 

[roadPilot]

VEVOR Smartcharger, around $79 buckaroos + Tax!

VEVOR Smart Battery Charger, 20-Amp, Lithium LiFePO4 Lead-Acid (AGM / Gel / SLA)

No power supply mode. Get the Clore if you're going to do FDRS updates.

 

[powerboatr]

I use a Schumacher unit
It's pretty tough
Dors keep battery up during long forscsn stuff

Ditto on above
Turn lights to off, lock out running boards to off or out,
Wipers off, seat, ac etc
Turn off easy access on seat or hit ant seat button to stop it when key off key on

Then once done
I let charger bring it back up to 95%

I have started , when I come home to select running boards out
Before I turn off truck
Because inevitably I have to get in and out of truck it seems several times and each door open event sucks up power restricting and extending the boards

 

[roadPilot]

I have started , when I come home to select running boards out
Before I turn off truck
Because inevitably I have to get in and out of truck it seems several times and each door open event sucks up power restricting and extending the boards

I don't disagree with your logic (plus less wear and rear on the running board motors), but that would be a PITA to do every time I get out. Lol.

 

[powerboatr]

I don't disagree with your logic (plus less wear and rear on the running board motors), but that would be a PITA to do every time I get out. Lol.

it is...really...but i am to un organized of late to not have to get in truck at least 10 times a day
i looked for a way to have them auto stick out at each shut down.. to no luck

 

[Fordphanatic]

I'm getting ready to start tinkering with FDRS so I've of course been reading through some of the threads. I was looking for recommendations on a battery tender for those long ass updates that could fail if the battery voltage drops.

Any decent recommendations out there that won't break the bank? The mongoose alone is already quite the investment.

Thanks!

Do you really want to go cheap after spending most likely more then 80K for your platinum and $500+ for a mongoose. A good charger that wont fail you at the wrong time is not cheap. I wouldnt use anything less then the Clore PL2320 . https://m.mediaamazon.com/images/I/516OvDYZnLL._AC_SL1000_.jpg

 

[VRFlyer]

No power supply mode. Get the Clore if you're going to do FDRS updates.

I believe they calle it “Force” mode ?

Sponsored