F150 Powerboost Axle bolt sheared off

[AustinH97]

To add to this, I had my passenger side axle bolt snap on October 13th at about 20,2xx miles. Called my dealer and had a new axle installed about two weeks later. The day I picked it up I could have sworn I heard the same metallic rubbing sound but I had somewhere to be that same day and would deal with it very soon after. So 4 days later which was my earliest opportunity to look at my truck, I heard what sounded like something clanging around at the back end of the truck. I jacked my truck and to my dismay the driver side axle bolt snapped. I haven't even towed anything since March. Currently waiting for a driver side axle to get shipped to my dealer as these axles are becoming backordered. What a mess. Still debating buying some spare axle bolts.

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[UGADawg96]

Now I'm hearing a clanking sound from the left rear wheel at slow speed. Started last week, but I've been on a road trip and haven't been able to check it. I'm back now and need to pull the rear wheels and see if I'm another victim. ? PB MT 15k miles

 

[Buyer2021]

.... need to pull the rear wheels and see if I'm another victim.

The center-caps on my OE wheels are easy to pop-out with a small screwdriver (tape on the blade) without any damage whatsoever. Quick and easy 'inspection' access, perhaps for you, too?

Good Luck!

 

[UGADawg96]

The center-caps on my OE wheels are easy to pop-out with a small screwdriver (tape on the blade) without any damage whatsoever. Quick and easy 'inspection' access, perhaps for you, too?

Good Luck!

I'd hate to scratch these wheels.

 

[Pedaldude]

I used a promotional fake credit card from the junk mail wedged between the center cap and wheel to protect the paint when I pried the center caps out with a tiny screwdriver after hearing a noise.

Been meaning to drill peepholes into the center caps but I might get cheap generic ones for that. For the past few hundred miles, just been driving around without ’em.

Never figured out what the noise was, I also removed all the rocks that are constantly being embedded into the tread.

Good luck!

 

[UGADawg96]

I used a promotional fake credit card from the junk mail wedged between the center cap and wheel to protect the paint when I pried the center caps out with a tiny screwdriver after hearing a noise.

Been meaning to drill peepholes into the center caps but I might get cheap generic ones for that. For the past few hundred miles, just been driving around without ’em.

Never figured out what the noise was, I also removed all the rocks that are constantly being embedded into the tread.

Good luck!

Well that did it. I had an old plastic work badge that is a little more flexible than a credit card and it worked as you described. I only checked the driver's side. I'll check the passenger tomorrow. I'm officially on the list. My dealer's website says next available appt is end of December. I'll call them tomorrow and see what they can do. Thank you!

First pic is what it looked like when I got the cap removed.

 

[UGADawg96]

So if they replace the axle, I'm assuming just the part that slides into the tube. They don't actually replace the whole diff/pumpkin too do they ? Hoping I don't have to remove the RAS before taking it in.

 

[Snakebitten]

There's really no reason to replace the axle if the broken bolt was removed/replaced before the axle was to damage itself.

I personally won't drive the truck if I break one, but will remove/replace the bolt myself if the dealership won't.

 

[Pedaldude]

I think that they just take the wheel and brakes/hub off and then the axle just slides out of the housing. Unless they are able to get the broken bolt half out and just put a new bolt in.

Experience seems mixed when it comes to people who have had the bolt fail and the dealership just replaced the bolt vs. the bolt/axle.

The helper springs shouldn’t be a problem unless they interfere with the four bolts on axle housing that hold the static bearing section on. The dealership shouldn’t be giving anyone any grief, since this is 100% on Ford. Outside of some sort of fix; I wouldn’t be surprised if every single one of these fail at some point.

Somewhere, someone posted the valid section from the service manual.

What was the mileage at failure?

 

[Ntsi]

So if they replace the axle, I'm assuming just the part that slides into the tube. They don't actually replace the whole diff/pumpkin too do they ? Hoping I don't have to remove the RAS before taking it in.

They just replace the Axel. Not the rear end.. as for replacing the bolt, if you can extract it, there have been a few reporting that they got it to work. Just make sure the Axel hasn’t started backing out of the hub.

 

[UGADawg96]

I think that they just take the wheel and brakes/hub off and then the axle just slides out of the housing. Unless they are able to get the broken bolt half out and just put a new bolt in.

Experience seems mixed when it comes to people who have had the bolt fail and the dealership just replaced the bolt vs. the bolt/axle.

The helper springs shouldn’t be a problem unless they interfere with the four bolts on axle housing that hold the static bearing section on. The dealership shouldn’t be giving anyone any grief, since this is 100% on Ford. Outside of some sort of fix; I wouldn’t be surprised if every single one of these fail at some point.

Somewhere, someone posted the valid section from the service manual.

What was the mileage at failure?

A few miles under 15k.

 

[thebigdu]

The part number for the bolt is ML3Z19S426A. The final torque ended up at 120 lbs/ft (52 lbs/ft +90 degree turn).


https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-bolt-and-washer-assembly-hex-head-ml3z19s426a

Thanks very much for posting! Just ordered three.

 

[bowling]

There's really no reason to replace the axle if the broken bolt was removed/replaced before the axle was to damage itself. I personally won't drive the truck if I break one, but will remove/replace the bolt myself if the dealership won't.

The technician at Leif Johnson Ford said that they're replacing the axle because it takes less shop time for the repair. I didn't bother to make the point that customer time is what they really ought to be measuring since I've been without my truck for seven days now while they're waiting for the replacement axle. When I asked if he checked the other side (driver's), he said it seemed ok. I asked him to remove the old bolt and replace and said that if Ford won't pay for it, then I will. I sure as hell don't want to be without my truck for another week or two. It's too bad they're not willing to use an EZ-out and just fix it in a day or two.

 

[Buyer2021]

The technician at Leif Johnson Ford said that they're replacing the axle

Do you know explicitly (without any assumption) if they are replacing only the bare axle shaft or are they replacing the axle assembly of axle shaft+hub with bearing? I ask in part because on Ford Parts the only 'public' PN listing I find is for the axle shaft+hub with bearing assembly.

 

[Snakebitten]

The technician at Leif Johnson Ford said that they're replacing the axle because it takes less shop time for the repair. I didn't bother to make the point that customer time is what they really ought to be measuring since I've been without my truck for seven days now while they're waiting for the replacement axle. When I asked if he checked the other side (driver's), he said it seemed ok. I asked him to remove the old bolt and replace and said that if Ford won't pay for it, then I will. I sure as hell don't want to be without my truck for another week or two. It's too bad they're not willing to use an EZ-out and just fix it in a day or two.

That's amazing that they were up front with a straight face when they told you that their convenience overrides your convenience.

There was a time that a professional mechanic would at least attempt to remove the broken bolt on the principle that it's both a waste of a good axle and the customers time (days/weeks) to order the whole assembly.

Those mechanics, I guess, are long retired old men?

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