ECU module programming guide using FDRS

[rack04]

The standard 12v AGM mode

I use the 12v supply.

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[JEB]

My understanding was that mode is intended to be used to power something externally or in place of having a battery for a short period of time. That is not the mode I use.

Power supply mode is the correct mode to use for programming. During programming, maintaining a stable voltage is critical. In charge mode, the charger tries to maintain constants amps while allowing voltage to float—exactly the opposite of what you want to do. In power supply mode, the charger attempts to keep voltage constant and allows amps to float.

 

[JScaro]

Power supply mode is the correct mode to use for programming. During programming, maintaining a stable voltage is critical. In charge mode, the charger tries to maintain constants amps while allowing voltage to float—exactly the opposite of what you want to do. In power supply mode, the charger attempts to keep voltage constant and allows amps to float.

Until you draw more amps than the Power Supply was designed for, voltage drops, system goes to sleep. Start the process over.......

 

[JEB]

Until you draw more amps than the Power Supply was designed for, voltage drops, system goes to sleep. Start the process over.......

Always a risk with an undersized power supply. But using an undersized charger in charger mode won’t make a bad situation any better.

 

[SomebodyInGNV]

My understanding was that mode is intended to be used to power something externally or in place of having a battery for a short period of time. That is not the mode I use.

It's intended for use as constant power. Other modes will decrease voltage over time.

I would not use it to charge anything, but only as a source of continuous power.

 

[Kanuck]

I use the recommended power supply/charger listed at the beginning of this thread. Even with the 20 amp power supply, when doing long updates, I can see the voltage slowly fluctuating. It does keep my voltage between 12.5 and 13.7. I have not had the truck go into sleep mode with all the updates I have done. Maintaining a voltage level above 12 volts is a must.

I would not trust the Noco 10 to keep the truck powered enough for long updates.

 

[JEB]

I use the recommended power supply/charger listed at the beginning of this thread. Even with the 20 amp power supply, when doing long updates, I can see the voltage slowly fluctuating. It does keep my voltage between 12.5 and 13.7. I have not had the truck go into sleep mode with all the updates I have done. Maintaining a voltage level above 12 volts is a must.

I would not trust the Noco 10 to keep the truck powered enough for long updates.

Agree completely. I own and have used both the Noco Genius 10 amp and the ProLogix 20 amp and found the Noco woefully inadequate. I won’t use it. Even the ProLogix at double the amps is pushed to its limit. It’s designed to maintain 14.1 v in power supply mode but, like you also observed, it can’t hold that voltage during programming. It can maintain voltage that is enough, but not the voltage it’s designed for.

 

[HammaMan]

I use the recommended power supply/charger listed at the beginning of this thread. Even with the 20 amp power supply, when doing long updates, I can see the voltage slowly fluctuating. It does keep my voltage between 12.5 and 13.7. I have not had the truck go into sleep mode with all the updates I have done. Maintaining a voltage level above 12 volts is a must.

I would not trust the Noco 10 to keep the truck powered enough for long updates.

I've gotten into the 9.x volt range on an IPMA update. Below 11v is when things start going to sleep, sync will hibernate first. It's really the first sign of trouble. On the PB, 15a is sufficient. On the mach-e, don't attempt it with anything less than 30 amps or you'll be in the 9.x range before you can bring another vehicle over and splice in some wires to it for life support. I was able to hit 9.7v or so in the middle of an IPMA update, bring in life support and still have it take.

If you have to improvise, if you have another 12v car battery to jumper in, just charge them both up first. You can also use another vehicle for life support with jumper cables. If you have a charged 280ah LFP batt, it will laugh at everything you throw at it.

 

[SomebodyInGNV]

I have a Schumacher 15A SSC-1500A charger. When inquiring about compatibility with LFP I was informed by tech support that it stays at 14.6V in "gel" mode.

I'm in the middle of my second attempt to update the IPC. I'll swap to that charger for awhile to give my NoCo a break.

Addendum: I'm watching the screen the voltage has remained consistently > 12.2V+. It's on the Schumacher (I know, it's a POS) now in 15A Gel mode. The NoCo is cooling off. I don't have my DC clamp ammeter with me to measure how much the battery is drawing.

 

[SomebodyInGNV]

... If you have to improvise, if you have another 12v car battery to jumper in, just charge them both up first.

You mean run the chargers in parallel, like you can with solar charge controllers?

You can also use another vehicle for life support with jumper cables. If you have a charged 280ah LFP batt, it will laugh at everything you throw at it.

Unfortunately, my LFPs are 15 miles away in my trailer.

Since FDRS shows a consistent 12.3V+, I think I'm okay. I just have to monitor it. I didn't, earlier, which may be why it failed.

Unfortunately, it's warm and muggy in Gainesville today.

 

[HammaMan]

well you could run chargers in parallel if you have them, or add batteries w/ jumper cable if it's charged. It's still reserve capacity either way.

 

[SomebodyInGNV]

Today I learned the power windows on my truck don't work when updating IPC. I had to break out the blue tarp when it started to rain.

Voltage dropped to 12.0 with the Schumacher so I switch back to the NoCo Genius 10 in power supply mode. V increased to 12.3.

I'm on block 1 of 2, step 85900 of 99138, for the item it's updating. Other than the fact it moves, the progress bar is useless. I have no idea how much more remains for the task. There may be other parts.

 

[SomebodyInGNV]

well you could run chargers in parallel if you have them, or add batteries w/ jumper cable if it's charged. It's still reserve capacity either way.

Having switched back to the cooled-off NoCo, voltage is actually increasing. I think I'm close enough to the end that I'm okay.

 

[Kanuck]

Because the Noco is running hot is an indicator that it is maxed out. My Genius 5 has no cooling slots. I suspect the 10 doesn't have any as well. Inside would be an oven.

FYI... Electronic components change their characteristics when over heated and usually fail shortly there after.

 

[SomebodyInGNV]

Because the Noco is running hot is an indicator that it is maxed out. My Genius 5 has no cooling slots. I suspect the 10 doesn't have any as well. Inside would be an oven.

FYI... Electronic components change their characteristics when over heated and usually fail shortly there after.

I recognize that issue, which is why I disconnected it for awhile to cool off. It's maintaining voltage and I'm close enough to the end that I think it will see me through.

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