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JScaro

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THanks, can you tell me the exact settings you used to charge the night before you went to the power supply mode during the updates.
Connection to the battery matters also. Do not connect to negative directly, it messes with the BMS. This is how I connect mine.
Ford F-150 ECU module programming guide using FDRS E52D403E-5DFD-40B9-8159-E89C583CFA7C
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roadPilot

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THanks, can you tell me the exact settings you used to charge the night before you went to the power supply mode during the updates.
Mine was at 95 when I first connected (12V charge mode, likely 10A, but it doesn't matter). Immediately switched over to PS mode. Zero issues during programming.

If you do this yourself: There will be times when FDRS has you cycle the ignition. If you have NOT used FORScan to update your truck to NOT default to auto-headlamps ON, be sure to turn them off (while programming) any time you see them on. The lower right corner of the FDRS screen will tell you current battery voltage. When it goes from 13.2V to 12.4, turn your lights off. I forgot about that when it happened and was scratching my head for a minute. LOL.
 

Regular150

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Is there no other option than that $500 Mongoose cable? Or is somebody with a limited power boost should just consider that chump change!

Also it doesn't matter what the sync version says all that stuff is still out of date no correlation?

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roadPilot

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Is there no other option than that $500 Mongoose cable?
There are options, but IMHO, there is no other RELIABLE option that is less expensive. A multi-OEM J-box is far more expensive, and I believe the less expensive VCX Nano is no longer officially supported by FDRS.

Or is somebody with a limited power boost should just consider that chump change!
You'll use it again. You can also do the same for others, whether you do it for free or ask for a contribution. In the end, a $539 investment is nothing compared to what you paid for the truck, right?

Also it doesn't matter what the sync version says all that stuff is still out of date no correlation?
My advice is to not pay attention to that. There is no easy or direct correlation between what that screen says and what specific SW update has been applied to a specific module.
 

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There are options, but IMHO, there is no other RELIABLE option that is less expensive. A multi-OEM J-box is far more expensive, and I believe the less expensive VCX Nano is no longer officially supported by FDRS.
Not sure where that rumor got started, but the VCX Nano was NEVER officially supported by Ford. It was recommended by early adopters on this and the Mach-e forums who had some early success with it until it was discovered that it was corrupting as-built data and bricking certain modules.
 

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Not sure where that rumor got started, but the VCX Nano was NEVER officially supported by Ford. It was recommended by early adopters on this and the Mach-e forums who had some early success with it until it was discovered that it was corrupting as-built data and bricking certain modules.
I’m pretty sure I saw it on the FJDS/IDS page that it was originally supported but has since been removed. I could be wrong but I’m pretty sure I saw it on there
 

JEB

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I’m pretty sure I saw it on the FJDS/IDS page that it was originally supported but has since been removed. I could be wrong but I’m pretty sure I saw it on there
I’m pretty sure you are misremembering. The page listing compatible J2534 devices hasn’t been updated in a long time—so long that it still lists the Mongoose PWM—a predecessor to the Plus—as officially supported. The Nano was never on that list. https://www.motorcraftservice.com/diagnostic/FJDSSupport?categoryId=247
 

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I’m pretty sure you are misremembering. The page listing compatible J2534 devices hasn’t been updated in a long time—so long that it still lists the Mongoose Pro—the predecessor to the Plus—as officially supported. The Nano was never on that list.
Memory is a fickle thing. It’s a good possibility you’re correct
 

tbinmd

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I just purchased mine from Amazon for $539.95. I know, Im at wits end and am willing to pay. I have a question though. what settings should battery tender be on? 12V, 10A and STD? I just ordered the mongoose cable and the pro logic charger. Should I charge before attempting updates, or right before I start? I know I need it to be on during updates. Sorry for the stupid questions.
The Pro-logix battery charger has a power supply mode, use that. With the charger in place, it doesn't really matter what the charge is on the battery. FDRS displays the voltage in the bottom right side of the screen. With the power supply mine never dropped below 13volts.
 

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JEB

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The Pro-logix battery charger has a power supply mode, use that. With the charger in place, it doesn't really matter what the charge is on the battery. FDRS displays the voltage in the bottom right side of the screen. With the power supply mine never dropped below 13volts.
There are two Clore Pro-Logix battery chargers on Amazon that look exactly the same. Make sure you get the 20A version.
 

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So if a battery charger/power supply is necessary to bang out a bunch of module updates using FDRS, then how does the OTA PowerUp process work? If I was a normal owner, oblivious to this whole thread, would all these pending updates get updated OTA eventually? Do the PowerUp packages get bundled together depending on worst-case battery drawdown or something? I still don't understand how the OTA process avoids battery voltage drawdown issues. I know OTAs can fail due to that and sometimes owners have to wait 2+ months for them to get sent out again by the mothership. I don't really get what Ford is thinking or how others (eg Tesla?) have done it better.

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roadPilot

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Not sure where that rumor got started, but the VCX Nano was NEVER officially supported by Ford. It was recommended by early adopters on this and the Mach-e forums who had some early success with it until it was discovered that it was corrupting as-built data and bricking certain modules.
Bottom line, avoid using it, as that was the gist of my message.
 

JEB

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Bottom line, avoid using it, as that was the gist of my message.
I understand and agree with you. I was just trying to head off any notion that the Nano was ever endorsed or supported by Ford, lest someone reason that, if it was supported at one time, it might be “safe enough.” No. It’s not.
 

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How do you know which one of these you need.?

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