Axles replaced now what?

[Larrymoe]

Legitimate question- How many of you had any idea what your truck/car's battery level ever was before the last 10 years?

And I know, more stuff runs off the battery than at any other time in automotive history, but it just seems a little unnecessarily obsessive.

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[Buyer2021]

I only need the program and cable and some using it.

I'll offer the suggestion that you get the OBDLink MX+ to serve as the FORScan-compatible interface between your F150 and laptop.

Why?

Because not only does it robustly support FORScan, but also because the free OBDLink App for Android / iPhone (with the free model & year-specific extension) provides real-time monitoring of your battery's voltage and SOC%.

Very handy to check the status of those two critical values, even if only occasionally.

Just for your consideration.

 

[Snakebitten]

Yes.
Obsessive about addressing the shortcomings that are addressable.
Put better (my opinion) bolts in my MaxTow axles. For example

Been doing that kind of thing all my life.

 

[Porpoise Hork]

Yes mine is the Ecoboost. I am Not yet a Forscan user, but it looks like I am going to be soon. I have the laptop. I only need the program and cable and some using it. I retired from the I.T. world so it should not be too difficult. I program and re-program amateur and commetcial radios, scanners etc. Thanks again for the info!!

Forscan isn't hard to learn to use. There are plenty of videos out there on it.

The single biggest bit of advice when using it is first and foremost make backups of all the modules BEFORE you go change anything. That way you have the original As-Built data if it is ever needed. Then make another backup of the specific modules when you make each additional change to them. That way you can easily revert back to any stage if a subsequent coding change causes an error, make a mistake, or if you don't like what the changes made actually do.

 

[JumboJVT]

So I have a question: what was wrong with the battery charging strategy that has been used for nearly 100 years? Engine runs, alternator charges battery. Its always been one of the simpler things to make work and has always served well as best I can tell. Put a new battery in my '16 Tundra at 8 years because it rolled slowly at -10F. Started, but a second try had it not, might have been a failure. What is the improvement that the post-'20 F150's scheme is trying to achieve?

 

[Buyer2021]

What is the improvement that the post-'20 F150's scheme is trying to achieve?

An incremental improvement in fuel economy by reducing alternator load on the engine when possible according to the Energy Management System's algorithms.

Not saying that's good / bad / successful / or otherwise, but that's the design goal of these systems which are prevalent across most brands and vehicle models these days.

 

[Porpoise Hork]

So I have a question: what was wrong with the battery charging strategy that has been used for nearly 100 years? Engine runs, alternator charges battery. Its always been one of the simpler things to make work and has always served well as best I can tell. Put a new battery in my '16 Tundra at 8 years because it rolled slowly at -10F. Started, but a second try had it not, might have been a failure. What is the improvement that the post-'20 F150's scheme is trying to achieve?

When auto makers started using AGM batteries vs traditional flooded acid batteries for starters. AGM batteries require an entirely different charging strategy to prevent overcharging and potential damage to the cells. AGM batteries can be charged much faster thus reducing engine loads over longer period of run time but are more sensitive to over-voltage than traditional led-acid cells. If overcharged or excessive voltage/current is applied to them it leads to overheating which causes the safety vents to open and then electrolyte soaked glass mats to dry out prematurely significantly shortening their lifespan.

Then there's all the various modules in modern vehicles that remain active for extended periods of time after the key/system off has happened. These drain the batteries down and it's the job of the BMS to prevent the battery from draining too low which would prevent the engine from starting the next time it's initiated.

 

[Dizz]

That's because the H8 is not an OE size for Gen 14 ICE F150s (so Walmart considers it "incompatible" when you search their database by make-model-year).

However, the battery tray, hold-down bracket / strap, and cable lengths on all Gen 14 ICE F150s easily accommodate an industry standard H8 battery. Many of us have done this swap with no problem.

Yes, the BMS must be reset when, and only when, a NEW battery is installed. This does not require any external tool, the procedure is in the 2022 F150 Owner's Manual in the "Maintenance" section under "Changing the 12V Battery". Here it is clipped verbatim for your convenience:

Battery Sensor Reset​

When you install a new battery, reset the​

battery sensor by doing the following:​

1. Switch the ignition on, and leave the​

engine off.​

Note: Complete Steps 2 and 3 within 10​

seconds.​

2. Flash the high beam headlamps five​

times, ending with the high beams off.​

3. Press and release the brake pedal three​

times.​

The battery warning lamp flashes three​

times to confirm that the reset is​

successful.​

Finally, addressing another 'concern' you've expressed, if you do a battery-swap in reasonably prompt fashion (I.e. a normal typical working procedure and pace) you will not 'lose' any presets or other info relating to any infotainment / navigation / etc. All of that 'volatile' data is supported by various system capacitors which provide power to preserve that data for the time needed to do a typical battery swap.

I've "been-there, done-that", have first-hand personal experience, for all of the above, I've got no reason to lead you astray, just trying to be helpful in the spirit of the forum.

As a matter of curiosity: What is the trim level, engine, and drivetrain (2WD/4WD) of your 2022 F150?

Appreciate this ??

 

[SumGuy]

Legitimate question- How many of you had any idea what your truck/car's battery level ever was before the last 10 years?

And I know, more stuff runs off the battery than at any other time in automotive history, but it just seems a little unnecessarily obsessive.

This is the first vehicle I have owned with recurring low battery issues. Had one battery replaced under warranty and the issue returned with the made in China h6 that ford uses.

 

[JumboJVT]

When auto makers started using AGM batteries vs traditional flooded acid batteries for starters. AGM batteries require an entirely different charging strategy to prevent overcharging and potential damage to the cells. AGM batteries can be charged much faster thus reducing engine loads over longer period of run time but are more sensitive to over-voltage than traditional led-acid cells. If overcharged or excessive voltage/current is applied to them it leads to overheating which causes the safety vents to open and then electrolyte soaked glass mats to dry out prematurely significantly shortening their lifespan.

Then there's all the various modules in modern vehicles that remain active for extended periods of time after the key/system off has happened. These drain the batteries down and it's the job of the BMS to prevent the battery from draining too low which would prevent the engine from starting the next time it's initiated.

I thought that might be the answer. But it begs the next question: why the change to AGM batteries? As I understand it, its because of the need to power all the modules when the vehicle is off...which begets another module to manage the battery. But the root question is, what of substance does all this provide that a vehicle from 10 years ago doesn't? Note the "of substance" qualifier. I'm just having a hard time seeing what the newest rigs provide - other than "cool tech" - that ones for the mid-teens didn't. But of course my needs and wants are simple.

 

[Henfield]

Thanks to everyone for the input. I am going to get an H-8 battery. It the BMS that little module attached to the necative battery connector?

H8 is the battery size used on the Diesel F150. If going that route, you need to buy a larger battery "blanket " for the bigger unit.

 

[Porpoise Hork]

I thought that might be the answer. But it begs the next question: why the change to AGM batteries? As I understand it, its because of the need to power all the modules when the vehicle is off...which begets another module to manage the battery. But the root question is, what of substance does all this provide that a vehicle from 10 years ago doesn't? Note the "of substance" qualifier. I'm just having a hard time seeing what the newest rigs provide - other than "cool tech" - that ones for the mid-teens didn't. But of course my needs and wants are simple.

I'd have to say long term power output reliability over traditional flooded batteries would be the main thing. With the ever increasing electrical demands of modern vehicles car makers needed batteries that could handle the routine deep discharges while still providing enough power to start the engine when needed. AGM batteries can handle this far better over longer lifetimes than traditional flooded batteries. Traditional batteries on average can handle up to 3-500 50% discharges over their lifetime where AGM batteries can in most cases easilly handle 500-1000+ cycles before failing. They also can handle frequent high amp loads better during engine starts than their flooded counterparts. A must for cars equipped with stop/start tech as well as hybrids. Last thing I can think of is the ability to mount them in virtually any orientation. The sealed, non-spillable construction allows for flexible installation positions and reduces the risk of acid leaks.

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