Anti-Sway bars questions

[lilburnedbear]

Is your truck a 4wd? Are you basically saying that the steeda 2wd bar will fit a 4wd truck just fine even without removing the block spacers?

Yes. My truck is 4wd and the 2wd bar absolutely will fit if the blocks are taken out thus affording more range of adjustment to get the bar parallel per instructions. That was the direction I was headed when I planned my shock upgrade. There might (and caution MIGHT)be enough if you leave blocks in and don’t ever lift the truck.

When I asked about the minimum thread engagement needed on the connecting rod with the shorter 2wd endlinks The Steeda rep I talked to said 0.5”. I think I got at least an 1” on each endlink which might equate the to height of the block if left in but I would need to get under the truck and loosen one of the ends to see if it might work without removing the blocks.

I am planning to throw my snow tires on this weekend. Will see if I can get a better read for you.

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[SudS2k]

Much appreciated. I think .5" threaded on top and bottom of the link may not be enough, but if steeda says it's ok then maybe it is. I'm kind of wary of the appearance only because the bar is a silver color, so if I can get a more tucked up look that would be better. Btw my truck is 4wd but lifted only in the front about 1.75".

 

[OC Mike]

I have used Helwig on a few previous trucks, but during the supply chain nightmares they were tough to find and they were priced a bit in the gouge territory.
That led to my first Steeda purchase.

As much as has been documented regarding them, I still think their price and quality were a good value equation. I'd buy them again.

Having said that I think Helwig is the only front for the Gen14? Or is that no longer true? I'm tempted, because I did love how the front affected my 2018. However I'm happy enough with all the tweaking I've done on this truck I'm not sure I want to mess it up. ?

Have you measured your existing Front? The Tow packages have a heavier bar @ 36mm/1.41".
The Helwig is 1 3/8"/1.375". Close enough. My 22 has 1 .06, I'm definitley going up with the Helwig.
My 14 has the 36mm with the max Tow. Took me awhile to figure this out.

 

[Snakebitten]

I haven't measured my Max Tow Powerboost front bar. But I can tell you that the first time I saw it I was stunned at how skinny it is compared to the 2018 front bar.

Then I read why, and I calmed down. Lol
It's just physics. The geometry on the front suspension of the Gen14 F150 compared to the Gen13 is significant! Especially the attachment points for the sway bar. So a much thinner bar on the Gen14 is a similar influence as the thick bar on the previous design.

 

[Buyer2021]

Regarding OE front, just FYI (of course no dimensional data provided in the descriptions clipped verbatim from the Tasca site) ....

TASCA 2022 F150 SEARCH HITS – “stabilizer bar”

Stabilizer Bar - Ford (ml3z5482a)
Sale Price:$120.38
F-150. Base payload package. 157 wheelbase. 2.7l. Exc.Performance Suspension. Exc.Heavy Duty Towing Package. Base payload package. 141 wheelbase. 2.7l. Base payload package. 141 wheelbase. 3.3l. 4WD. without TREMOR base payload.

ml3z5482b – no hit

ml3z5482c – no hit

Stabilizer Bar - Ford (ml3z5482d)
Sale Price:$109.95
F-150. Base payload package. 122 wheelbase. Rwd, hd payload. Exc.Performance Suspension. Heavy Duty Towing Package. 4wd. without tremor hd payload. Base payload package. 145 wheelbase. 5.2l.

Stabilizer Bar - Ford (ml3z5482e)
Sale Price:$88.71
Performance Suspension. Crew cab.

Stabilizer Bar - Ford (ml3z5482f)
Sale Price:$120.38
F-150. 4wd. Tremor.

ml3z5482g through k – no hit, ended search

 

[Buyer2021]

Took a flyer and bought the Steeda 2wd version after talking to Customer Service. I dropped the rear by taking out the rear axle block. Got it in and the bar leveled parallel with the ground with using only about 1” of the threaded rod meaning at least 1” of thread engagement on each side of the end links customer service said minimum 0.5”. I could have come close to parallel even with the block not removed.

With that said I cannot understand the rationale for the length of the end links on the 4wd. As if everyone with 4wd gets a lift. PSA Steeda, lengthen the threaded rod 0.5” and sell it as a 2wd & 4wd unlifted. Then you can market the other as 4wd as “for lifted”.

Just FYI per email exchange with Steeda ....

The only difference between the 4WD (PN 555-1027) and the 2WD (PN 555-1028) version of the rear adjustable bar kit is one end of the end link assembly. The "short-end" needed to convert a 4WD kit to 2WD kit is PN 554-997-2564 (x2 required, 1 for each side, sans bushings so transfer your existing bushings). I was quoted $150 for a pair if those ends sans bushings.

I don't think I could fab a set of fixed-length short links for $150 in materials and effort.

Nor do I know if the 'dangling bar' bugs me enough to make a change.

Making no comment on Steeda's pricing or kit bundling, it is what it is. Just providing info for those interested.

 

[lilburnedbear]

Excellent!

 

[BUDXR7]

Just FYI per email exchange with Steeda ....

The only difference between the 4WD (PN 555-1027) and the 2WD (PN 555-1028) version of the rear adjustable bar kit is one end of the end link assembly. The "short-end" needed to convert a 4WD kit to 2WD kit is PN 554-997-2564 (x2 required, 1 for each side, sans bushings so transfer your existing bushings). I was quoted $150 for a pair if those ends sans bushings.

I don't think I could fab a set of fixed-length short links for $150 in materials and effort.

Nor do I know if the 'dangling bar' bugs me enough to make a change.

Making no comment on Steeda's pricing or kit bundling, it is what it is. Just providing info for those interested.

So I installed the steeda 2wd kit (per recommendations on here) on an FX4 w/ blocks still in place. My impressions;
I had to adjust the end links to what must be about max length to get the bar “level”. I can also only use the end setting in the bar tab. The distance between the end links was about 3.75”, not sure how much was left. Evidently the 4wd links are too long, and I felt the 2wd links were too short. Not ideal.
Torquing the end link bracket to the frame while keeping it parallel? Good luck. What a PITA. Maybe with a third hand… a big maybe.
I had to bend my muffler heat shield away from the end link on the passenger side. It was pressed right up against it. Not ideal.
There really is no flexibility on where you can install the u-bolts on the axel due to wires and brake lines. This prevented me from centering the bar in the rubber bushings. The images in the instructions also do not look like my 23’ PB. Not ideal.
Before you bother trying to bolt the bushing carrier in place, put the u-bolt in a vice and spread it - it was about 0.5” from actually fitting. Not ideal.
This one is a nit pick but light grey paint? Com’ on. How about black. This thing already looks so out of place.
Last, I greased everything properly with provided grease. Torqued everything to spec. Verified fit (no contact). And it creaks around turns. Not ideal.
Maybe I did something wrong, and I haven’t owned the truck long enough to discern a difference in driving attitude, but I’m not really happy. Didn’t seem worth the time and money.

 

[Snakebitten]

Thanks for the report on the shorter endlinks. I am now convinced that shrinking the 4WD endlinks to their absolute minimum length was probably a good solution of the 2 choices.
I am just barely not parallel to the ground on a 157" Powerboost 4WD Max Tow.
I don't mind the color either. But that's just my affinity to suspension components visibility in general.
I like seeing RAS.
I like seeing upper control arms.
I like seeing calipers and rotors.
I like a good looking set of dampers.
(although the CCD aren't anything to write home about esthetically)

 

[BUDXR7]

Thanks for the report on the shorter endlinks. I am now convinced that shrinking the 4WD endlinks to their absolute minimum length was probably a good solution if the 2 choices.
I am just barely not parallel to the ground on a 157" Powerboost 4WD Max Tow.
I don't mind the color either. But that's just my affinity to suspension components visibility in general.
I like seeing RAS.
I like seeing upper control arms.
I like seeing calipers and rotors.
I like a good looking set of dampers.
(although the CCD aren't anything to write home about esthetically)

Do you have any thoughts on the “creaking”? I’m not even sure that’s the right word. It’s almost like a metallic clicking or binding. I did install the washer BETWEEN the sway bar tab and the end link bushing (as best I could interpret the instructions).

 

[Snakebitten]

Do you have any thoughts on the “creaking”? I’m not even sure that’s the right word. It’s almost like a metallic clicking or binding. I did install the washer BETWEEN the sway bar tab and the end link bushing (as best I could interpret the instructions).

I didn't get any creak/squeek. I DID get a rattle after a couple of thousand miles and found that the frame through bolt had backed out from the threaded nut-plate somehow. It allowed the bracket for the endlink to pull away from the frame and then create clatter when it ruturned. I must not have torqued it properly?
At some point I expect the bushings might begin to squeak, but so far that SUPER sticky greese has held up.

 

[BUDXR7]

I didn't get any creak/squeek. I DID get a rattle after a couple of thousand miles and found that the frame through bolt had backed out from the threaded nut-plate somehow. It allowed the bracket for the endlink to pull away from the frame and then create clatter when it ruturned. I must not have torqued it properly?
At some point I expect the bushings might begin to squeak, but so far that SUPER sticky greese has held up.

I will note for others performing this install….
The picture in the instructions show the u-bolt location in a different location than the marketing image;

Also, the images don’t depict the muffler heat shield. Maybe this was added for 2023? It is a hard interference tho.

 

[FirstFord]

So I installed the steeda 2wd kit (per recommendations on here) on an FX4 w/ blocks still in place. My impressions;
I had to adjust the end links to what must be about max length to get the bar “level”. I can also only use the end setting in the bar tab. The distance between the end links was about 3.75”, not sure how much was left. Evidently the 4wd links are too long, and I felt the 2wd links were too short. Not ideal.
Torquing the end link bracket to the frame while keeping it parallel? Good luck. What a PITA. Maybe with a third hand… a big maybe.
I had to bend my muffler heat shield away from the end link on the passenger side. It was pressed right up against it. Not ideal.
There really is no flexibility on where you can install the u-bolts on the axel due to wires and brake lines. This prevented me from centering the bar in the rubber bushings. The images in the instructions also do not look like my 23’ PB. Not ideal.
Before you bother trying to bolt the bushing carrier in place, put the u-bolt in a vice and spread it - it was about 0.5” from actually fitting. Not ideal.
This one is a nit pick but light grey paint? Com’ on. How about black. This thing already looks so out of place.
Last, I greased everything properly with provided grease. Torqued everything to spec. Verified fit (no contact). And it creaks around turns. Not ideal.
Maybe I did something wrong, and I haven’t owned the truck long enough to discern a difference in driving attitude, but I’m not really happy. Didn’t seem worth the time and money.

Oh, man! Really hate to hear of your difficulties. On the other hand, a very valuable report - thank you. I am following with great interest, as I have been seriously contemplating doing a very similar install (but perhaps with a few modifications) later this winter. Your experience is unfortunate, yet is valuable to others. The power of the forum at work.

The creaking around turns is a bit of a surprise, especially since you reported that everything was properly lubricated at installation and everything properly torqued. The only thing that enters my mind is reflecting back on your comment regarding the difficulty in keeping the end link bracket parallel while tightening to proper torque. I can't help but wonder if one of them (or both?) didn't slip slightly. I'm grasping at straws...

I will note for others performing this install….
The picture in the instructions show the u-bolt location in a different location than the marketing image;

Also, the images don’t depict the muffler heat shield. Maybe this was added for 2023? It is a hard interference tho.

Again, very valuable information, and great pic!

I am particularly interested in your comments and picture regarding the placement of the U-bolts, as I anticipate this to be a very real point on contention with my install. I may have to rethink this...

 

[HammaMan]

Do you have any thoughts on the “creaking”? I’m not even sure that’s the right word. It’s almost like a metallic clicking or binding. I did install the washer BETWEEN the sway bar tab and the end link bushing (as best I could interpret the instructions).

You can try jacking it up via the U bolts where they stick down w/ a piece of wood to prevent scaring the bolts. Raise it up ~3" and drop it w/ a quick rotation of the jack handle and see if you can hear it.

 

[PatchManager]

Just FYI per email exchange with Steeda ....

The only difference between the 4WD (PN 555-1027) and the 2WD (PN 555-1028) version of the rear adjustable bar kit is one end of the end link assembly. The "short-end" needed to convert a 4WD kit to 2WD kit is PN 554-997-2564 (x2 required, 1 for each side, sans bushings so transfer your existing bushings). I was quoted $150 for a pair if those ends sans bushings.

I don't think I could fab a set of fixed-length short links for $150 in materials and effort.

Nor do I know if the 'dangling bar' bugs me enough to make a change.

Making no comment on Steeda's pricing or kit bundling, it is what it is. Just providing info for those interested.

The low bar did annoy me. When I installed the 4WD version on my 4WD I also found that the end link to be too long to get the bar level. I used a grinder to reduce the length of the end link and the inner bolt. I reduced them so I had about 1" of the bolt in the end link, which allowed me to level the bar and also provided a little more clearance under the end link.

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