7.2kw Inverter images

[HammaMan]

Doesn't appear to be required but I haven't tried to remove it. Do unplug both 12v batteries before doing so to in order to kill the HV system. Better to sleep the entire truck vs just pulling the HV interlock tab.

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[nickn066]

Doesn't appear to be required but I haven't tried to remove it. Do unplug both 12v batteries before doing so to in order to kill the HV system. Better to sleep the entire truck vs just pulling the HV interlock tab.

I’m going to use FDRS to shut the HV system down as well as disconnect both 12v and the HV plug per the service manual

 

[HammaMan]

Just unplug the batteries and go to work. FDRS does not shut down the HV system, it simply shows you the bleed resistors have done their job. The PPOB inverter is wired directly to the traction inverter. All of the HV components have bleed resistors in them to drain their capacitors.

 

[nickn066]

Just unplug the batteries and go to work. FDRS does not shut down the HV system, it simply shows you the bleed resistors have done their job. The PPOB inverter is wired directly to the traction inverter. All of the HV components have bleed resistors in them to drain their capacitors.

Okay, I'll do it that way! Think any forscan modifications will be needed? I honestly can't even remember if there is a module for it.

 

[HammaMan]

There's a purge function that may or may not be needed. If you're able to clamp off the lines and simply add ~8oz of coolant to the HV cooling system, you can achieve the 'purge' by just leaving the truck in run until it times out in 30 minutes. The coolant constantly flows while in the run position and it will basically perform the purge just the same. The manual says to perform a vac filling on it. Not sure how it'd turn out with just a few ounces missing as I haven't tried it in that state. There's few 'soft' lines in the system so putting a vac on it post may be enough.

I'd top up the system before beginning to the fill line, catch all of the fluid in a pan when you do the swap, measure the 'lost' fluid, run the system post install and verify it's purging air. The first thing you do before you begin, make sure the ICE runs until the HVB is 'full', turn HVAC OFF, and then power down the truck (open the hood and rear door and leave to truck to fall asleep for ~10m before pulling the batts, leave fob away from truck). Once the swap is complete, go to key run and it should run the pump on its cooling loop and send most of the air to the bottle before the ICE fires. Turn off all of the 12v loads you can which prolongs the HVB's SOC by not powering the blower and headlights leaving the pump running (coolant bottle open).

If the 'lost' coolant matches the coolant added then you know it purged as it should. It takes the same 50/50 coolant blend as the primary loop.

 

[nickn066]

Inverter is installed along with the new panel, I’m getting 120v from both an and b bank and 240 split. The pro power display still only shows the 2400w option, so need to figure that out next.

it was incredibly easy getting the 2.4 out and so much harder to get the 7.2 in because it’s so much larger. The service manual says to drop the exhaust and I wish I would have.

 

[HammaMan]

I hope this was a test fit

Because those internal caps look like they can remain in place w/ hoses installed. That'd be bad if it were to occur.

 

[nickn066]

I hope this was a test fit

Because those internal caps look like they can remain in place w/ hoses installed. That'd be bad if it were to occur.

That's the smaller inverter, I capped them to make sure I didn't pour coolant all over myself when taking it out

 

[Goldeneye36]

Nice! For Sync to display the full 7.2kw I believe you need to do some forscan changes, if you haven't already. Which ones though I unfortunately can't help you with as I have no forscan knowledge, lol.

 

[nickn066]

Nice! For Sync to display the full 7.2kw I believe you need to do some forscan changes, if you haven't already. Which ones though I unfortunately can't help you with as I have no forscan knowledge, lol.

Yup! I'm currently "shopping" for a 302A with the 7.2, so I can start to compare

 

[Goldeneye36]

Yup! I'm currently "shopping" for a 302A with the 7.2, so I can start to compare

Figures I got exactly what you need but I'm literally on the other side of the country, lol!

 

[nickn066]

Figures I got exactly what you need but I'm literally on the other side of the country, lol!

Would you be willing to PM your VIN so I can pull your asbuilt?

 

[HammaMan]

I have the settings posted somewhere around here, I'll go check the sheet.

That's where it's at, find your value with 1 gauge then find it w/ 2 gauges.

 

[nickn066]

I have the settings posted somewhere around here, I'll go check the sheet.

That's where it's at, find your value with 1 gauge then find it w/ 2 gauges.

Power to the box, literally never would have put those 2 together, kept checking generator/inverter

 

[HammaMan]

The 24's "bars" are in there too now, but the dials look better IMO
This is an example, don't use the value/s

Here's if you play with bars, not worth it IMO, there's another setting that deals with variables in the bars

Also found this in PCM Value D is what you now have (not sure what this does long term)

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