10r80 - How Much Metal is Normal?

[HammaMan]

First a 10R80 dosnt have bands and fluid burnt and full of metal flushing isnt going to fix anytrhing,
There is damge internally and will probably unfrotunately need rebuilt,

That's not 'full of metal', it's just clutch material and steel from the plates .... aka the wear from this stuff

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[Boen]

I own a transmission shop for 30 years and have been doing transmission work for over 40 years I understand transmission and I just want to let him know thats a lot of stuff on the magnet

 

[bjl95mustang]

Do you have a better picture of the metal on the magnet? Is it a paste like a super fine powder. Or like pepper flakes and chunks?

 

[cjnnewman]

2 issues with the 10r80, one of which has been rectified (new CDF design). The other is the pistons on the valves scraping their bores. This is alleviated with a clip shim to prevent them from having so much freeplay within their bores. That buildup is about right for the mileage on the truck which I'm assuming based on ford's suggested filter change interval is what's been there from day 1.

A fluid replacement might temporarily fix the issue but I'd at the very least use the clip shims on the solenoids to prevent them from binding up within their bore. The factory fix is to replace the valve body. The fluid replacement may alleviate it with its fresh additive package, but if you're in the pan, the clips shims are easy to install. I'd increase the rebuild interval as much as possible. Even doing it yourself you're looking at up to $2500 depending on the state of the valve body.

Wow, thank you! I read up on the CDF issue and found a discussion about a TSB that states trucks built after 8/22 should have the updated CDF. My truck was built 09/22, so hopefully I won’t have that issue.

I’ll have to look into the shims more, do you have to drop the valve body to do that? The shifting is actually much better now with the fluid change, and I’ll likely do it again in around 5k just to get even more of the old fluid out hopefully. Or maybe pay ford since I hear they can do a full fluid exchange.

 

[cjnnewman]

The magnet was merely a dusting, actually much less than what you see here on the filter. I wasn’t too concerned with that. No chunks or big pieces, everything just wiped away with a shop rag.

I bought the truck knowing it had some shifting issues, and that it could be normal quirks, or damage. I got a good deal and I’m prepared to rebuild or buy reman and swap myself, but I’d prefer not to. At least for as long as possible!

 

[HammaMan]

Sounds like you dodged the CDF drum issue, I'd call these guys and see what they suggest outside of some big overhaul.

These are the shims, looks like they have a higher strength clip as well
https://suncoastdiesel.com/i-305010...10r80-solenoid-stabilization-clip-insert.html

https://suncoastdiesel.com/i-30501205-10l80-10l90-10r140-10r80-solenoid-stabilization-retainer.html

 

[Boen]

They are made by sonnaxs

 

[Gros Ventre]

First a 10R80 dosnt have bands and fluid burnt and full of metal flushing isnt going to fix anytrhing,
There is damge internally and will probably unfrotunately need rebuilt,

You haven't answered my question. How does the 10R80 hold or release the ring gear in a given planetary set?

 

[Boen]

Totally irrelevant

 

[Gros Ventre]

Totally irrelevant

Wrong, you don't know. So stop pontificating.

 

[FaaWrenchBndr]

The magnet was merely a dusting, actually much less than what you see here on the filter. I wasn’t too concerned with that. No chunks or big pieces, everything just wiped away with a shop rag.

I bought the truck knowing it had some shifting issues, and that it could be normal quirks, or damage. I got a good deal and I’m prepared to rebuild or buy reman and swap myself, but I’d prefer not to. At least for as long as possible!

do the fluid change, put it back together, see how it does. From the material you’re talking about on the magnet sounds like you should be fine with just a fluid change.

 

[MTMan]

2 issues with the 10r80, one of which has been rectified (new CDF design). The other is the pistons on the valves scraping their bores. This is alleviated with a clip shim to prevent them from having so much freeplay within their bores. That buildup is about right for the mileage on the truck which I'm assuming based on ford's suggested filter change interval is what's been there from day 1.

A fluid replacement might temporarily fix the issue but I'd at the very least use the clip shims on the solenoids to prevent them from binding up within their bore. The factory fix is to replace the valve body. The fluid replacement may alleviate it with its fresh additive package, but if you're in the pan, the clips shims are easy to install. I'd increase the rebuild interval as much as possible. Even doing it yourself you're looking at up to $2500 depending on the state of the valve body.

Have you done the clip shims and at what mileage do you think the first fluid change should be done?

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