ECU module programming guide using FDRS

[FirstFord]

Very possible. It has happened to many people here over the course of this thread. All they did was try to log in again later and it worked without doing anything creative.

To be clear - there was NEVER any question about it, but wow - you really know what you're doing! You were right (of course!), and about three login attempts later, it let me in!

Next question - under "User Settings" / "Simulation Mode" - do I answer yes or no?

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["Steve"]

for whatever reason ive also seen people have success trying the last version, but maybe that has more to do with uninstalling and reinstalling. ?

 

[rugedraw]

To be clear - there was NEVER any question about it, but wow - you really know what you're doing! You were right (of course!), and about three login attempts later, it let me in!

Next question - under "User Settings" / "Simulation Mode" - do I answer yes or no?

Not sure what this is. Screenshot?

 

[FirstFord]

Not sure what this is. Screenshot?

This popped up after login let me in - presumably finishing up the set up:

 

[FirstFord]

A more-full-screen view, if it helps....

 

[rugedraw]

Just hit OK and proceed.

 

[FirstFord]

thanks!

 

[FirstFord]

@rugedraw , I got shot down before I even really got started. As per your written FDRS Guide, you expressly state not to proceed without a sold 12.5V showing in the lower corner of FDRS. I had my upgraded H8 battery on a battery maintainer the night before (to make sure I would start with a full battery), and before starting the FDRS procedure, I put hooked up the recommended ProLogix battery charger on Power Supply setting, but am only getting a reading of 12.3 volts, which eventually dropped to 12.2V. I double checked the battery connections, and all seemed well. Everything in the truck is turned off. So, I've stopped. I've got to figure out where the voltage loss is coming from....

 

[rugedraw]

@rugedraw , I got shot down before I even really got started. As per your written FDRS Guide, you expressly state not to proceed without a sold 12.5V showing in the lower corner of FDRS. I had my upgraded H8 battery on a battery maintainer the night before (to make sure I would start with a full battery), and before starting the FDRS procedure, I put hooked up the recommended ProLogix battery charger on Power Supply setting, but am only getting a reading of 12.3 volts, which eventually dropped to 12.2V. I double checked the battery connections, and all seemed well. Everything in the truck is turned off. So, I've stopped. I've got to figure out where the voltage loss is coming from....

That's fine. Battery at 12.3v while the engine is off is perfect. Don't overthink it. Use the power supply and make sure it is on power supply mode and not charging mode and you'll be fine.

Start with any GWM/APIM/TCU that are showing. These will be done with the truck on and running after FDRS downloads the files, so do those first until no more are showing, then connect the power supply for the rest.

 

[SilverPigeon]

...I put hooked up the recommended ProLogix battery charger on Power Supply setting, but am only getting a reading of 12.3 volts, which eventually dropped to 12.2V...

Also, make sure that when you connect the negative clamp of the power supply, connect it to frame ground, NOT the battery negative terminal, otherwise the BMS won't see it and report a lower voltage than actual.

 

[FirstFord]

Also, make sure that when you connect the negative clamp of the power supply, connect it to frame ground, NOT the battery negative terminal, otherwise the BMS won't see it and report a lower voltage than actual.

Thank you sir - yes, I was aware of that and that was the way I had it connected. I finally did wind up solving the issue (stupid mistake on my part) and got a 13.5V

 

[FirstFord]

Don't overthink it.

You have no idea how hard it was for me to stay clear of that notion!

That's fine. Battery at 12.3v while the engine is off is perfect. Don't overthink it. Use the power supply and make sure it is on power supply mode and not charging mode and you'll be fine.

Start with any GWM/APIM/TCU that are showing. These will be done with the truck on and running after FDRS downloads the files, so do those first until no more are showing, then connect the power supply for the rest.

Thanks for your assistance. I seem to have everything downloaded and installed (even the USB stick finished in a timely manner!

The only issues remaining are:
- The BCM not run (well known issue regarding needed licensing).
- I ran the ACM many times, and it never did clear. Not sure if there is anything that can be done about that.

The other issue (but in reality, non-issue) is the IPMA DTC:

That originally came about when I traded my standard sideview mirrors to Tow Mirrors. I had read in several places where a number of people had problems realigning their mirrors, and the end result was worse that what they started with. After my upgrade, I had NO image display issues, so I never attempted a realignment, and as a result, I have had a DTC ever since. I'd really like to get rid of it, but not at the price of messing up the image (if it ain't broke, don't fix it???).

 

[JohnTrigger]

The ACM won’t clear. So that is “normal”.

 

[FirstFord]

The ACM won’t clear. So that is “normal”.

Ah! Thank you! I had a suspicion that the ACM may have been "one of those" modules...

 

[FirstFord]

A new concern that just struck me... One of the primary reasons for going through the FDRS updates was to get the "latest" IPMA update. Having this is required for two FORScan changes I've been wanting to make. However, since I have a DTC associated with the IPMA (caused by switching from regular Sideview mirrors to Tow Mirrors and not realigning the 360 cameras), I wonder if those FORScan changes will even take ?...

Perhaps I should consider realigning the cameras using FDRS since I now have the license? I just don't want to risk mucking up the images (as has happened with some people) because the images are currently fine.

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