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Coolant Flush Question

Str8Shooter

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It appears that I probably should do a coolant flush. The user manual states 10 years or 200,000 miles, but as I keep reading further into the user manual it states if you heavy tow, or frequent idle more than 10 minutes an hour often that the coolant should be changed at 60,000 miles. I have never towed, but I have often idled the engine over a 3 month period while camping and running ProPower.

I am now at 60,000 miles and the coolant is a slightly orangish color . Question is should I have the dealership change it, or can I use Jiffy Lube to change the coolant. Can I depend on Jiffy Lube to use the coolant that meets the OEM Spec (Yellow Coolant?)
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Str8Shooter

Str8Shooter

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I wouldn’t trust Jiffy Lube to wash my windshield.
Thanks for the info about the windshield wash. I'll tell them to skip the windshields. :thumbsdown:

It appears that I am going to answer my own question about the Coolant Flush. I found this on the Jiffy Lube website. Reference: https://www.jiffylube.com/resource-center/car-leaking-coolant#

"Your coolant fluid level and protection level will be checked. If you wish, the fluid will be topped off with a coolant that meets or exceeds vehicle manufacturer recommendations. Plus Jiffy Lube uses high-quality Pennzoil® products (where applicable)."
 
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Str8Shooter

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Nickelwork87

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Thanks, but the owners manual Staes to "Flush" and refill.
It's really not that hard. I just buy about 20 gallons of distilled from Walmart then get the Coolant flush from ford. I usually run my truck at about 2000rpms for about an hour for initial flush then about 20 minutes for each flush after that to get rid of everything else. Then I get draining and refilling until I get all the old coolant and flush out. Once all that is done I usually pour in straight concentrate coolant and it mixes with the watjer that is left with the block and that gets me close to 50/50 mixture. Ford new spec coolant is s yellow coolant and is better at corrosion protection.
 

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It's really not that hard. I just buy about 20 gallons of distilled from Walmart then get the Coolant flush from ford. I usually run my truck at about 2000rpms for about an hour for initial flush then about 20 minutes for each flush after that to get rid of everything else. Then I get draining and refilling until I get all the old coolant and flush out. Once all that is done I usually pour in straight concentrate coolant and it mixes with the watjer that is left with the block and that gets me close to 50/50 mixture. Ford new spec coolant is s yellow coolant and is better at corrosion protection.
The issue is the chemistry... drain and refill gets rid of nearly all of the stuff you want gone. Flush is really just a dilution process...
 

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FYI / FWIW / perhaps of interest, attached are Workshop Manual procedures
 

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From the second document: “Remove the radiator”? Not by me.
 
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Str8Shooter

Str8Shooter

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FYI / FWIW / perhaps of interest, attached are Workshop Manual procedures
That is very interesting that the workshop manual states to remove the radiator. I called my Ford Dealer and asked how they do a flush and fill in accordance with the user manual. They told me that they use a machine to suck out all the fluid and put new fluid in. That's the same process as the quick lube centers. In fact, the price was exactly the same. $149 between the dealership and quick lube center.
 

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Ain't nobody gonna do that manual's flush procedure. Pull rad and hose it out upside down? LOL
Best someone is going to get from the most shops is a ~95% coolant exchange. Someone wanting a flush will need to get to work in the driveway.
 

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If it costs the same between Ford and a quick lube place, I'd definitely have Ford do it
 

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That is very interesting that the workshop manual states to remove the radiator. I called my Ford Dealer and asked how they do a flush and fill in accordance with the user manual. They told me that they use a machine to suck out all the fluid and put new fluid in. That's the same process as the quick lube centers. In fact, the price was exactly the same. $149 between the dealership and quick lube center.
Removing the radiator is only if you suspect it to be really crapped up inside and need to clean out the coolant side.
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